Champ
Member
Im checking my valves and one of my exhaust is right at .22mm. According to the manual that is within the range. Should I leave it and not worry about getting more toward the mid range of the spec.
Valve Adjustment Help Please
- Thread starter Champ
- Start date
How close to the upper end is it? I’d still in the range but right at the edge and the only one needing to change, I’d be inclined to leave it but repeat the check sooner next time.
If more need changing, then I’d do it now.
If more need changing, then I’d do it now.
Champ
Member
Ok I finished checking the rest and Im little bewildered. Here is a pic of my measurements. I have one exhaust valve at .47. How is this possible. Im a little overwhelmed but think I can do this with some help. If anyone can help I would appreciated it.
Attachments
Champ
Member
So Im thinking if this is right I have a tight intake at .08 and the exhaust at .47 Im hoping this didn't do any damage. The bike ran fine, it had little ticking but nothing bad. I figure if I have to do this anyway I might as well get the other two into mid range as well since they are right on the edge. Any thoughts and advice would be appreciated. I already have a hot cams shim kit so Im ready to go tomorrow with this.
~TABASCO~
RIDE ON ADV is what I do !
Founding Member
2011 Site Supporter
2012 Site Supporter
2013 Site Supporter
2014 Site Supporter
Vendor
It’s “best” to have them all in the middle. If your in changing 1-2, why not do them all and have it the best it could be…? It’s surprising how much better it runs……..
Champ
Member
One of my questions is has anyone seen a valve this far out as my exhaust valve at .47 and should be worried. To me that is extremely loose. This is my first valve check at 26,400. I do plan on getting them all closer to the middle range. The four valves in the middle of the picture to me are fine. It's all the outside ones in the picture that need to be adjusted. Again any help with this would be appreciated. I can't sleep thinking about this
I wouldn’t be overly concerned as a new engine, when built, still has tolerances that aren’t meshed in with one another (as in, when a motor is run in).
The more miles you do in a motor, the better it gets.
I have a TDM900 with over 265,000 on it and, while the power is down, the motor is meshed in to work very, very well. If I were to change cams from those that are extremely worn, things would start breaking.
The first time you do shims is when the most wear is seen. It drops off significantly after that. I’ve had checks after 40,000 where everything is still within spec.
Put the shim into the middle or even lower end of the range and do it before time the next time around if it concerns you that much.
I’d only be concerned if the lobes of the cam shaft are significantly under spec. It may mean a bad grind and they’ll need replacing. It can happen but extremely rare.
What method did you use to measure the valves?…….did you respect the method of using the marks on the crankshaft sprocket?…or did you simply measure the clearance between the valve and the opposite part of the cam?….remember that you have decompressors in a single valve per cylinder that may be activated (when measuring) and cause you to take the readings incorrectly…
Champ
Member
I did use the marks. I did not take out spark plugs . Can that cause an issue?
Quaap
New Member
.47 can't be correct. Valve clearance is getting tighter, so .47 can't be correct.
The specs are the specs. Yamaha engineers decided that if a clearance is at the bottom, it's still safe to drive another 40.000 km or 25.000 mi.
So if they are in spec, I would not change anything (avoiding the extra work that comes with exchanging shims).
If you have to change one, I agree with Tabasco, better change all to be in de mid of the range.
The specs are the specs. Yamaha engineers decided that if a clearance is at the bottom, it's still safe to drive another 40.000 km or 25.000 mi.
So if they are in spec, I would not change anything (avoiding the extra work that comes with exchanging shims).
If you have to change one, I agree with Tabasco, better change all to be in de mid of the range.
Champ
Member
Im going to check them all again this morning per the manual. I feel the same way about that exhaust valve being that far out. I do still have an intake that is tight at .08
Champ
Member
Ok Just went through the whole process of checking them again. I don't know what I did different but now the exhaust valve that was reading .47 is actually little tight at .21. And the intake valve that was .08 is now in spec at .10. Maybe I didn't have the T mark exactly pointing up thats the only thing I can think of. So Im assuming that I should probably get the exhaust valve that is a little tight into spec. What would anyone suggest.
WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
Double check your camshaft position is correct. There is a mechanism that opens the exhaust valves to reduce compression when starting. You have to rotate the crankshaft a few degrees away from the initial/reference position before checking clearances.
Champ
Member
Yes, I’m thinking that’s what it was so I double checked them again and have already changed some shims putting it back together now and crossing my fingers that it will all be good. Keep you posted.
Champ
Member
OK you can see from the picture where I am at after changing out some shims. My tight exhaust valve is now at the max at .28. That was the best I could do with the shim as I figure it will only get less overtime.
i’m pretty happy with where they’re all at
Now I just gotta get this valve cover on and see if it runs
i’m pretty happy with where they’re all at
Now I just gotta get this valve cover on and see if it runs
Attachments
Champ
Member
Got it all back together. It started right up and definitely is running better. No leaks! It used to surge a little during idol, now it idols perfectly. It also seems to respond quicker to throttle as well.I put a new air filter and plugs while I was in there. which Im sure helped as well. The old filter was pretty dirty and the plugs looked ready to change as well. Took it for a quick ride and is running great. I couldn't have done it without the help here and the great videos people have done as well. Thanks again. Tires and rear brake pads tomorrow and thats it for now. Time to Ride.
“””DON’T PUSH THE REAR PADS””WITHOUT OPEN THE BLEEDERS!!!!……
Is there something with the ABS that is affected when you have the top of the motor off?
I wouldn’t have thought there’d be any effect on the brakes during that process…
The intervention on the valves would not affect the ABS...but he said that his next intervention was to change the rear pads and the rear tire...and since the loss of the rear brake usually it's related with the change of rear pads, that is why i warn to loosen the bleeders to avoid brake fluid backflow
Champ
Member
Will do. I flushed the whole system out couple weeks ago so I know it’s full.