Top end rebuild.

limey

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Kevhunts said:
How often and for how long have you "topped out" over 100 mph in the 140km you've driven the bike?
Maybe 2 or 3 times just for a few seconds.
 

limey

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~TABASCO~ said:
Are you replacing valves, guides, springs, keepers. I would suggest you 'lap' the valves into the seats. If you do things like this it does add time. Depending on how deep you get into it I'm going to take a guess at 20-30 hours. ( just depends on the parts to be replaced) I could do it quicker but I'm very particular and often take more time than needed to check, double check and do all the small 'jobs' to make sure everything is 100%.
The local yamaha shop will be doing the work and I will ask the question thanks.
 

limey

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2daMax said:
Oil consumption could also be caused by sticky rings due to carbon build up. Was thinking flushing with Seafoam mixed with oil prior to oil change and mixing with fuel for the intake valves.
You are right the problem was with carbon buildup and I was surprised how bad it was. The dealership is advising me to use Ring-Free and this should help stop the carbon buildup.

So thanks guys for your input.
 

2daMax

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limey said:
You are right the problem was with carbon buildup and I was surprised how bad it was. The dealership is advising me to use Ring-Free and this should help stop the carbon buildup.

So thanks guys for your input.
Glad it was just carbon and sticky rings. For Yamaha's Aluminum engine block castings, it is bullet proof in terms of wear. Nick Sander's 50k miles journey from Alaska to Argentina's tip and back prove it all - like new conditions after stripping down the engine for inspection. Personally I know a Yamaha 135cc moped that has gone 300k km without any oil consumption.

About the Diasil engines.
https://global.yamaha-motor.com/news/2002/0731/innovation.html
 

Xclimation

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Do you use 92 or above octane gas?

Also, minor concern with our bikes....My bike runs anywhere from 163F to 172F when cruising highway speeds. Yes, when stopped and hotter temp outside will get to 220 then fan turns on and cools it to 212 pretty quickly.
Just seems the bike runs pretty cool and I wonder if this could be a problem with incomplete fuel burn?
 

eemsreno

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I think you guys need to start burning good old Iowa corn fuel. :))

I have never added any thing to my fuel ever!
In 171,000 miles probably 95% of that has been on
87 octane 10% corn. Bike runs better everyday.
 

limey

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Nikolajsen said:
So the ONLY problen was carbon build up? ???
Or did i miss something?
Yes that was the only problem.
 

patrickg450

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BigBob said:
You are still doing Romney I hope.

I spent a lot of money on a sort-of-truck and a toy hauler. I need free scotch!

And I have broken bread with Patrick since I last saw you. I need to clear my throat.
Miss you too..........
 

Cycledude

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2daMax said:
Oil consumption could also be caused by sticky rings due to carbon build up. Was thinking flushing with Seafoam mixed with oil prior to oil change and mixing with fuel for the intake valves.
I have a relatively low hour John Deere lawn mover that used to smoke a lot until I started adding Marvel Mystery oil to the gas, that stopped the smoking but if I ran a tank of gas without Marvel Mystery oil it would soon start smoking again so now every time I fill with gas I add a little Marvel Mystery oil, it’s cheap and easy.
 

greg the pole

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I'm no engine guru...probably dumb as rocks when it comes to it...
but, on mine, both valve seals and piston rings were shot. I don't think it was from fuel (89 most of it's life) just the basics giving up the ghost (valve seals are $2 parts!)
and the 1st gen rings.

I don't see how any amount of sea foam would get rid of the buildup.
I had to diligently clean each valve, pistons, and head (bead blast) before the crud came off..

piston pre/post pic: https://flic.kr/p/Rb1nsy
 

OldRider

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greg the pole said:
I'm no engine guru...probably dumb as rocks when it comes to it...
but, on mine, both valve seals and piston rings were shot. I don't think it was from fuel (89 most of it's life) just the basics giving up the ghost (valve seals are $2 parts!)
and the 1st gen rings.

I don't see how any amount of sea foam would get rid of the buildup.
I had to diligently clean each valve, pistons, and head (bead blast) before the crud came off..

piston pre/post pic: https://flic.kr/p/Rb1nsy
That's the reason I use this stuff every fill up. https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Outboard-Additive-Quart-ACC-RNGFR-PL-32/dp/B00BBLM8ZW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523916320&sr=8-3&keywords=yamaha+ring+free+fuel+additive

I carry these little bottles for filling up on the road. They are very tough bottles, I've dropped them on concrete and all they do is bounce. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003FXSUU6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

Checkswrecks

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greg the pole said:
I'm no engine guru...probably dumb as rocks when it comes to it...
but, on mine, both valve seals and piston rings were shot. I don't think it was from fuel (89 most of it's life) just the basics giving up the ghost (valve seals are $2 parts!)
and the 1st gen rings.

I don't see how any amount of sea foam would get rid of the buildup.
I had to diligently clean each valve, pistons, and head (bead blast) before the crud came off..

piston pre/post pic: https://flic.kr/p/Rb1nsy

No matter what we do, sometimes shit happens and you're right, sometimes only pulling it apart can clean that crud.
 

2daMax

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greg the pole said:
I'm no engine guru...probably dumb as rocks when it comes to it...
but, on mine, both valve seals and piston rings were shot. I don't think it was from fuel (89 most of it's life) just the basics giving up the ghost (valve seals are $2 parts!)
and the 1st gen rings.

I don't see how any amount of sea foam would get rid of the buildup.
I had to diligently clean each valve, pistons, and head (bead blast) before the crud came off..

piston pre/post pic: https://flic.kr/p/Rb1nsy
Greg, can you check he link....it doesn't work.
 

greg the pole

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2daMax said:
Greg, can you check he link....it doesn't work.
try this one, it's the complete write up, but should work..https://thetenerist.wordpress.com/2017/03/04/yamaha-super-tenere-xt-1200-top-end-rebuild/
 

greg the pole

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Checkswrecks said:
No matter what we do, sometimes shit happens and you're right, sometimes only pulling it apart can clean that crud.
agreed. That said, the motor itself (head, valves, seats) were intact after 80k km, of me beating on it. It's truly a tough bike.
After a proper cleaning (which was strangely very satisfying ::025::) it could have gone back together using all the stock parts, save for new rings and valve seals.
My motor hone guy advised against re-using the pistons (he's a bit of a negative nancy) and I went with the newer gen pistons and rings
 

greg the pole

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OldRider said:
That's the reason I use this stuff every fill up. https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Outboard-Additive-Quart-ACC-RNGFR-PL-32/dp/B00BBLM8ZW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523916320&sr=8-3&keywords=yamaha+ring+free+fuel+additive

I carry these little bottles for filling up on the road. They are very tough bottles, I've dropped them on concrete and all they do is bounce. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003FXSUU6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'd driver myself bananas if i had to do it every fill up. At your next valve check, have a look at your intake valves, if they look like this: https://flic.kr/p/SDKep2
the stuff works
 
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