The Tenere made me do it - WR250R

avc8130

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WOW! Pic 1 is so good it looks photoshopped!

Who's idea was it to STOP on that nasty hill? I'd have been mowing them over and continuing along. That does NOT look like a fun one to give up momentum on!

ac
 

avc8130

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Firefight911 said:
Interesting, the 5th number determines switch point from cruise to acceleration. This, in my understanding of how the controller works, does not come in to play at WOT.

I am very sensitive to lean/rich. I am positive I was lean on 2nd number as my performance improved whenever I allowed the temp to get above 200 degrees. Hot and lean improvement. Once I bumped 2nd number to 5 I saw an immediate improvement. It is well known that WOT is running rich by standard programming on the ECU. That's why 3rd number is 0.5. This translates to stock ECU programming.

HighFive on ADV did some extensive dyno work and mods that I emulated in some areas - http://www.wrrdualsport.com/

I really am looking forward to my own dyno time though. There's no substitute for it.

As for pics, I will get my act together soon and get a proper build post done. In the mean time, I have the bulk/raw photos of everything here - http://firefight911.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/WR250R/
If you are going to spend the money on dyno time I think I'd spend the money on a Power Commander also...

ac
 

Dirt_Dad

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The WR was loaded into a pickup by the new owner and taken home this evening.

Final assessment: Great bike. Much better dirt bike than an on pavement bike. In the rocky nasty stuff it is a fantastic performer.

I bought it to see what a small bike could teach me. What I learned is that I'm done expanding my dirt skill set. I have what I have, I know what I know, and I ride off road rarely enough that no improvement is anticipated. That means the superior performance of this bike in the ugly stuff is wasted on me. The ugly stuff that is sometimes available to me is rock crawling. I really hate rock crawling. Once the terrain accommodates faster speeds the underpowered nature of the small engine becomes more obvious. Still fun to ride, but it is missing that arm stretching satisfaction.

Overall enjoyed owning the WR. Had I not ridden a more powerful bike I'd probably still own the WR. In the end I realized my background of owning more powerful dirt toys (CRF450X, KTM520, KFX700) is where my true satisfaction is found. I just like it better when the bike tries to escape from underneath me when I twist my wrist. That fascination has its own set of downsides, and can even be scary at times, but the WR did make me miss the grunt.

Goodbye WR. Its been fun. Please treat the new owner well.
 

trikepilot

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Had a bad experience or three last weekend in the slop on a 75% work out Michelin T63 rear tire. Was gonna just get a D606 but then thought about the not DOT options. I have never been stopped and asked if my tires are DOT approved and my current front is not anyway. So why not run a non-compliant rear, eh?

I strolled around a few sites and liked the look/cost of this one - Michelin StarCross MH3.

Does anyone have any thoughts on a favorite non DOT approved knobby? Road performance is irrelevant to me.
 

BaldKnob

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trikepilot said:
Had a bad experience or three last weekend in the slop on a 75% work out Michelin T63 rear tire. Was gonna just get a D606 but then thought about the not DOT options. I have never been stopped and asked if my tires are DOT approved and my current front is not anyway. So why not run a non-compliant rear, eh?

I strolled around a few sites and liked the look/cost of this one - Michelin StarCross MH3.

Does anyone have any thoughts on a favorite non DOT approved knobby? Road performance is irrelevant to me.
I've never been asked if my tires were DOT by law enforcement and the guy that inspects the bike could give a rip so... my 520 EXC has MX52's front (w/TuBliss) and rear and seem to be wearing well but I am very easy with them on pavement. I used the Michelin MH3 once before and found it to be a good all around tire (not great for sand) but if you use it on extended pavement runs you will see rapid wear. The tire I get the most life out of is the Maxxis Desert IT.
 

twinrider

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trikepilot said:
Had a bad experience or three last weekend in the slop on a 75% work out Michelin T63 rear tire. Was gonna just get a D606 but then thought about the not DOT options. I have never been stopped and asked if my tires are DOT approved and my current front is not anyway. So why not run a non-compliant rear, eh?

I strolled around a few sites and liked the look/cost of this one - Michelin StarCross MH3.

Does anyone have any thoughts on a favorite non DOT approved knobby? Road performance is irrelevant to me.
I've found M63s are pretty good in mud. What pressure were you running, that can make a difference.
 

trikepilot

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Thanks, BaldKnob. I'll do some digging into those. I think it is time I shook it up a bit and explored some of my non DOT options.

Twinrider - no amount of lowered pressure would have improved the performance in the slop I was in. The lugs were just too worn down. I was out there with a DRZ400 that had brand new D606s on it and he had way fewer issues.
 

avc8130

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trikepilot said:
Had a bad experience or three last weekend in the slop on a 75% work out Michelin T63 rear tire. Was gonna just get a D606 but then thought about the not DOT options. I have never been stopped and asked if my tires are DOT approved and my current front is not anyway. So why not run a non-compliant rear, eh?

I strolled around a few sites and liked the look/cost of this one - Michelin StarCross MH3.

Does anyone have any thoughts on a favorite non DOT approved knobby? Road performance is irrelevant to me.
For the rear: Kenda Trakmaster II
For the front: Choose your Kenda front, they are all pretty much DOT. I run a Southwick 2

ac
 

fjrmgm

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I purchased an '08 WR a year and a half ago and have since put over 6,000 miles on it riding the heck out of NW Arkansas ans southern Missouri. This bike is a hoot to ride after the following mods:
13X48 sprockets - DO FIRST
D606 rear tire
larger fuel tank
set suspension sag
airbox mod
fuel programmer
G2 Ergonomics throttle tube to fix the off/ON throttle jerkiness
clean the air filter more often than u think u should

My bike had the stock 13x43 gearing when I bought it and had no low end at all. The 13x48 is PERFECT for this bike and totally transforms the bike for climbing hills.

Keep in mind this bike has a whopping 27 hp so its never gonna be a rocket but with these mods its very capable and great fun.
BTW - I also have an '05 FJR and a CBR 954RR. It's such a difference between the three and I have all types of riding covered!
 

trikepilot

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Hey BaldKnob... a few questions on the Maxxis Desert IT tires you ran.

I mounted mine last week without much issue using my tire changer. I pumped them up to a bit over the recommended psi and let them sit in my garage. Over the next two days I checked the pressure on the tire and all was well. Friday afternoon, I mounted the still full-pressure tire to the WRR. I checked it this AM before riding to meet the guys and it still looked good. However, when I arrived at the meet-up place, I had a rear flat. I tried to limp it home but eventually the stem of the tube ripped out and the tire, tube, and rim were spinning independent of each other which made for some squirrelly riding. I got it trucked home and immediately set about putting in a new tube. This took little time and I was extra special super careful to get it mounted without pinching anything and that the stem was lined up into the hole correctly. I filled up the tire and deflated it 3x to make sure that everything was seated properly and again filled the tire to a bit higher than normal psi. I checked it over an hour or two and saw no problems. So I mounted the tire and took it on 10 minute rip around the neighborhood on pavement only. At the halfway point, I checked the pressure and I found soap bubbles coming out from around the stem - the tire pressure was down a few points but not very much. I turned her home and made it back to find the stem hole still bubbling air and the pressure was the same.

So... I am either seeing air that was between the tube and tire getting squeezed out (which I doubt) or... I am having a situation where this tire is not locking its bead with the rim very well and it is spinning a bit which moves the tube which tears the tube where the stem is attached. Did you use rimlocks on these tires. The OEM tires are 120/80-18. I have been running Michelin T63's at 130/80-18 and these Maxxis tires are sized at 120/100-18. The website where I ordered the tires says that this size fits the rims for a 2008 WRR as do many of the other web vendors that I checked. I am wondering if this tire size is not just off enough to where I need rimlocks. Any insights from your experiences? Thanks!
 

BaldKnob

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Trike,

I've always had a rim lock in place. I even used two for the 520 and the tire would still move on the rim. Now, I use TuBliss and that system grabs the entire bead. If you don't use one, it wouldn't be hard to drill a hole in your rim to add. I'm really surprised you've not needed one until now. Sorry to hear about the flat tire, glad you didn't go down because of it. Another trick to try (if you haven't already) is run the jam nut up to meet the valve stem cap. If the tire slips on the rim, the tube is able to shift and hopefully not rip out and cause a flat. Good luck and hope you get good life out of the Maxxis.
 

trikepilot

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Tore the tire/rim apart again and the issue is indeed at the stem. I wish I had marked the rim and tire so I could definitely tell, but I am about 100% sure that the tire is slipping and stressing the stem causing a tear and leak. So I am gonna remount again but this time use a rimlock. There are two holes with rubber plugs on the OEM rear rim for the WRR so it should not be a difficult install. Just need to get by the shop to grab a rimlock but that will have to wait till after the holidays.
 

BaldKnob

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Are you using HD tubes? They make UltraHD tubes that are even more resistant to flats and stem damage. They may weigh more but are good insurance against pinch/puncture flats.
 

Dirt_Dad

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trikepilot said:
There are two holes with rubber plugs on the OEM rear rim for the WRR so it should not be a difficult install. Just need to get by the shop to grab a rimlock but that will have to wait till after the holidays.
It's not too difficult to install rim locks. I put two Motion Pro locks in the front and rear of my WR. Never a problem. Even on that day you and I did all those water crossings and you heard through the bluetooth me doing my best to make the tire separate from the rim. Never a issue.
 

Checkswrecks

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Dirt Dad
You asked for the location of the little ford on Price Distillery Rd and I came home by there today. It's near the intersection with Haines Rd.
N39 deg 18.203'
W77 deg 17.204'
 
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