The Tenere made me do it - WR250R

[Dirt_Dad]

Damn! How did you squeeze 250hp out of that little motor?

Dare to dream. No, more like just a little more power that is mostly noticeable when lifting the front in 2nd gear.

I've been on the WR board trying to work out the issue of the bike cutting out going up hill. You remember that on my bike, right? It turned out to be a setting on the fuel computer. While going through that issue someone recommended experimenting with taking off the air box door.

It definitely adds some power, but a lot more noise. Way too much noise for my liking. There are some suggestions on how to get more air with less growl. I'll probably pursue some compromise to get it breath deeper without the irritating noise.

 

[blues bob]

TRIKEPILOT Did you get the Roz 2 in bar risers? I have them. They are multi adjustable. You do not need longer cables. Makes standing on the pegs so comfortable and I'm 6ft 3.

Someone else asked about clean running and power at elevation. My wrr was atop all the San Juans in Colorado 10,000 to 13,000 feet . It ran perfect and did not lack for power. But it has all the horsepower goodies, FMF pipe and header, computer tweaker, etc.

I too am among the Elite== Blue Tenere and Blue WRR and I must confess to owning a FZ1 as well, of course in Blue. Life is most good!

 

[trikepilot]

BluesBob - you have been sadly misinformed.... the "elite" pairing is the Raven SuperTen and Gray Wr250R. :

I did get the bar risers and they are a HUGE improvement. New knobbies, rebuilt front forks, new sprockets and chain, plus the Rox risers all went on at the same time and have made the WR so much better.

 

[avc8130]

Trike,

Who did your forks?

Others,

I have the FMF Q4 and the little fuel computer gizmo. Is there much to gain with a Powerbomb or a Megabomb?

What's the general consensus on a 12T front sprocket? Swingarm suicide?

ac

 

[trikepilot]

AVC - sorry, should have been more careful when I use the term "rebuilt forks" on a site where people good to great lengths and expense to trick out their forks.

What I had done was simply have the seals and oil replaced by my local Yammy dealer for $150. The left fork was leaking when I bought it used.

Nothing fancy here. The OEM forks are not holding me back as bad as my riding skills are!!

 

[blues bob]

AVC My header and pipe were installed at same time, so I can't answer your question. But most people recommend the pair. As for the 12 countershaft, many have gone that way and did not wear out their chain guide. But without constant attention, the chain will eat through the guide and right into the front lobe of the swing arm. I've seen the pics and I was lucky I caught mine with an one/eight inch deep gouge which I filled with Jb weld. I ended up going with the 13 counter and 48 rear. It accelerates with gusto now, but lowered my top speed by a bunch. From 43 stock to 46, was good, but with the 48 I can now crawl around and over the knarly stuff with ease, and still do 60mph.

 

[avc8130]

I just set my sag with the help of the wife to 4" in the rear.

I'm going to ride it a bunch before doing much more.

I was reading about the powerbomb header, it seems it is actually SMALLER in diameter than the stock header. Guys say the megabomb gives more lowend. This bike has NO lowend, so I don't even know if that is worth trying to add to.

It sucks the 12T is not a good solution, that takes re-gearing from $20 to $150.

ac

 

[Dirt_Dad]

This bike has NO lowend...

If I couldn't fix that it would have been the end of the WR for me.

13/47
FMF fuel controller
flapper mod

That did the trick to get me some low end. A good amount actually. With that setup it will easily wheelie in first and second gear. Something the stock setup would never do. It did knock the mileage down to 48 MPG (GPS measured), but part of that is also my riding style. I tend to keep the bike at higher RPMs than most people. I'm sure that hurts quite a bit.

 

[avc8130]

If I couldn't fix that it would have been the end of the WR for me.

13/47
FMF fuel controller
flapper mod

That did the trick to get me some low end. A good amount actually. With that setup it will easily wheelie in first and second gear. Something the stock setup would never do. It did knock the mileage down to 48 MPG (GPS measured), but part of that is also my riding style. I tend to keep the bike at higher RPMs than most people. I'm sure that hurts quite a bit.

I've got 2 of those 3 and I'm still at what I would consider "0" lowend so it must be the gearing.

I also have the big 606 rear tire, so that effectively acts like an even smaller rear sprocket than stock.

I'm not worried about fuel economy. This is a play bike for me. No way I will be the pacing fuel with my 3.1 gallon tank and everyone else on KLX300s or CRF450Xs.

ac

 

[Dirt_Dad]

I've got 2 of those 3 and I'm still at what I would consider "0" lowend so it must be the gearing.

I also have the big 606 rear tire, so that effectively acts like an even smaller rear sprocket than stock.

I'm not worried about fuel economy. This is a play bike for me. No way I will be the pacing fuel with my 3.1 gallon tank and everyone else on KLX300s or CRF450Xs.

ac

Double check, pretty sure the stock tank is a 2.1. I know my light comes on well under 2 gallons.

My fuel settings are:

G 3
Y 5.5
R .5
GB 8
YB 7.5
RB 6

That's running rich, but should also contribute to the added power.

I was not impressed at all when I tried as 12 counter sprocket with the stock rear. 13/47 and the 606, FMF controller and flapper mod really woke up the bike. Finally made it fun and not frustrating to ride. It's still no 450, but with that setup it is entertaining.

 

[avc8130]

Double check, pretty sure the stock tank is a 2.1. I know my light comes on well under 2 gallons.

My fuel settings are:

G 3
Y 5.5
R .5
GB 8
YB 7.5
RB 6

That's running rich, but should also contribute to the added power.

I was not impressed at all when I tried as 12 counter sprocket with the stock rear. 13/47 and the 606, FMF controller and flapper mod really woke up the bike. Finally made it fun and not frustrating to ride. It's still no 450, but with that setup it is entertaining.

I've got an IMS 3.1 on mine.

Do you have an FMF header? I still have the stock. I'll have to check the settings on the FMF controller. I should at least know what the PO did.

Flapper is long gone.

I was looking at gearingcommander.com. A 12T front with the stock rear is almost identical to your 13/47 combo...

ac

 

[Yamaguy55]

I don't have a steering damper on mine, and doubt I'll get one.

However, the stock suspension setup is sort of a blend between the R and the X, so there's too much tail end ride height for good handling. The X version has the 17" rims F&R, and needs more front wheel weight bias for that role. The frames are the same, so the steering geometry is set for the X and wrong for the R. I put the Yamalink on mine, dropped the back end about 1.5 inches total; then put the forks up about 0.625 inch/15.5 mm, and reset the sag. The handling is now very good considering the bike's weight and the stock valving. I don't have them handy, but can give you my compression/rebound settings for both ends. I played with both ends quite a bit before I settled on these. They haven't moved since.

I'm at the point that it handles more than good enough to wait for a suspension redo, when it will get Gold Valves. The only complaint is the high speed damping due to the very rocky area I ride. It's better than most as is. Even as is, I still tend to go faster than most of my riding associates, so getting it too good will just make me wait longer. 8) I dropped the whole KTM EXC-f/EXC concept for just that reason.

Fitting a 12T front will chew the swingarm and/or slider and kill off the chain. I swapped early on to the steel Sunstar 47T rear and left the stock front on, added one roller link and two rivet masters to the original chain and have done fine. Next go round, I may add another few teeth to the back. Be careful of the stock chain rollers: they are hidden and have a tough life. I fitted the ball bearing versions when I did the sprocket thing.

If you ride rock, a Flatland plate is highly recommended, as is the Flatland/EE rear disk guard. The disk guard was picked after I noticed how many times my chain guide had rock hits. Nail-heading a disk could ruin your ride.

I switched to ProTaper 1 1/8 AL bars and the GYT bar mounts, and have Zeta hand guards and levers fitted. Tossing the stock radiator guard and fitting the Flatland version makes it run a lot cooler. Fan seldom comes on now, it used to constantly run with the stock setup.

I have D606 rubber F&R, works for my local terrain so well that I haven't bothered to try anything else. Sometimes I have too much traction. They work on roads during torrential downpours better than many street tires.

Oiol change every 1K, filter every other, run good oil. Mobil1 Racing 4T is what I use, others work. Don't bargain basement the oil: these engines have a very limited oil capacity and need quality lube.

 

[Dirt_Dad]

Do you have an FMF header? I still have the stock.

I have stock pipes on mine. Not planning to get anything louder.

 

[avc8130]

Yamaguy,

Thanks for the tips!

I set the rear sag to 4". I have been riding around the yard a bit and I just can't get the front to feel "right". It just pushes when I try to turn, there is nothing "confident" about it. I'd LOVE for you to share your clicker settings. It would definitely give me a good baseline.

What do you think about using the lower shock mount to lower the rear a bit to correct the geometry? I've heard varying reviews of how the lowering links affect the lever ratio.

Good call on the extra master links to extend the chain on the cheap!

The PO installed an Acerbis plastic skid plate and I do plan to make my own radiator guard. I've made them in the past and had good luck.

The bike has fresh oil/filter and I just finished changing the coolant so I know what is in there.

The bike already has Pro Taper 1-1/8 Reed bars mounted in the Scotts "sub" mount bar mounts. I think they are ~30mm rise. Zeta hand guards with blinkers are installed also.

What tire pressure do you wind up running? I'm wondering if THAT is one of my main issues.

I need to watch some Youtube to setup this FMF controller. Following FMF's instructions are just about impossible with the bike running and how fast the thing scrolls through modes...and the fact I don't believe the modes are in any particular order.

ac

 

[Dirt_Dad]

I need to watch some Youtube to setup this FMF controller. Following FMF's instructions are just about impossible with the bike running and how fast the thing scrolls through modes...and the fact I don't believe the modes are in any particular order.

And don't forget the colors don't really match either. Yes, there is a video out there. Watch it a few time. I find it is very challenging to figure out what mode is flashing at you. Then, just when you have it figured out, it reaches the end of the 5 second cycle and changes...very annoying. After spending 5 times longer than it should take, I usually get it figured out. That 5 second mode needs to be about 20 seconds longer.

 

[Yamaguy55]

Yamaguy,

Thanks for the tips!

I set the rear sag to 4". I have been riding around the yard a bit and I just can't get the front to feel "right". It just pushes when I try to turn, there is nothing "confident" about it. I'd LOVE for you to share your clicker settings. It would definitely give me a good baseline.

I set three and a half inches of sag at the helmet lock position on the frame. It is an easy repeatable point. That is unladen vs me standing on the pegs, balancing with a hand against the wall.

What do you think about using the lower shock mount to lower the rear a bit to correct the geometry? I've heard varying reviews of how the lowering links affect the lever ratio.

I got some of it there, the rest with the link. The link changes the ratio, so alters the way the rear acts.

Good call on the extra master links to extend the chain on the cheap!

I didn't want to invest in new until I found out what I needed.

The PO installed an Acerbis plastic skid plate and I do plan to make my own radiator guard. I've made them in the past and had good luck.

The big thing isn't the guard aspect, although Flatland is the Nee Plus Ultra of this stuff, The stock shroud restricts cooling air to such a degree that I wouldn't be surprised to find it was a major contributor to the early fuel pump failure. The Flatland items flat out work, and aren't expensive. I don't mind tinkering, but I go with the "never build what you can buy" concept when they are several orders of magnitude better than my best efforts. I had Flatland make my plate with additional cooling holes, as I don't ride in mud and this engine gets quite warm.

The bike has fresh oil/filter and I just finished changing the coolant so I know what is in there.

The bike already has Pro Taper 1-1/8 Reed bars mounted in the Scotts "sub" mount bar mounts. I think they are ~30mm rise. Zeta hand guards with blinkers are installed also.

Good enough. change to taste.

What tire pressure do you wind up running? I'm wondering if THAT is one of my main issues.

I'm running about 20 front and 17-19 back. With the stiff sidewalls of the 606s, that's plenty. They are stiff enough that if I air down to 5 PSI, they still look pumped up. I run rimlocks F&R

I need to watch some Youtube to setup this FMF controller. Following FMF's instructions are just about impossible with the bike running and how fast the thing scrolls through modes...and the fact I don't believe the modes are in any particular order.

ac

My settings ( I'm 160 pounds and probably run another 20 with gear.) This is clicks out from seated in all. Both front forks must have the same settings.

Front:
Rebound=10
Compression=12

Rear:
oddly enough, the same. I may change a few clicks either way on the shock from time to time, but they stay about here. The forks never change. I like the way it feels: it feels as though I have the front axle between my hands. I can easily feel my way without looking.

Be very sure that you torque the triple bolts if you loosen them.

Uppers 17 ft/lbs, lowers 14 ft/lbs.


If your forks don't move smoothly, loosen the axle pinch bolts, and carefully ride around the yard and apply the brakes. It will center the forks. Carefully retorque the axle pinch bolts. If they don't seem smooth, check the triple bolt torques. They will bind if over tightened.

There you go. Works for me, can't speak for others.

If you don't know something to be true, then test and prove it.

 

[avc8130]

Interesting. So you are running less sag than usually suggested, but also running the lowering link. Had you tried the bike at stock rear height with 4" sag as suggested?

I like a challenge. Trust me, if I make a guard you won't be able to tell it is home made.

I'm going to set my tire pressures and suspension clickers to those settings and then see how it works out.

My forks seem to move smoothly but I might just reset everything since it is so easy to do since there are no fairings or anything in the way on this bike.

Thanks for all of the tips! You're ~2 hours from me. Maybe we could do a ride together in the Spring.

ac

 

[Yamaguy55]

I bought the bike used with 160 miles on it from an estate sale. Every adjustment in the bike had been adjusted. Both forks had different settings. So I put all the R &B settings to stock and tried it. It was ok, considering the almost worthless stock rubber.
I only played with the sag because of the link. The link not only changes ride height, but leverage ratio. It was probably the single best thing I did to the suspension. The rest is settings.
The area I ride is quite rough with a very large amount of rock, some loose, some embedded. I have hit rocks so hard on the plate that it stopped the bike. No sign of damage. A coworker lives right down the road from Flatland and recommended them. Some of the KTam guys buy the plate, get a new bike, move the plate to the new bike. Say what you like, but it is the standard as far as plates and AL protection parts go.

I generally ride over on the somewhat interesting DS trails over in Bald Eagle State Forest. Which is why I have the WRR, it has to be both legal and plated to ride there. Some of it is insanely rocky, and I quit when I have enough. This entire area is rock, rock, shale, rock, and clay. We're in the old Anthracite coal region, just south of the Marcellus Gas fields. Lots of off road, most of it too rough to enjoy on the Tenere. Some of it is too rough for the WR250R. I've considered a light 2stroke, and even a trials bike for some of it.

 

[Firefight911]

Count me in on the WR train.

My wife bought me a brand new 2013 for Christmas......let the farkling begin!!

::016:: ::016::
::015::

 

[Dirt_Dad]

Count me in on the WR train.

My wife bought me a brand new 2013 for Christmas......let the farkling begin!!

::016:: ::016::
::015::

Cool...congrats.

Seems like the thing to do. Checkswrecks told me he also picked one up recently.