Still moving forward while the bike is in gear and clutch is pulled in

[zimmerdj]

I've bled the clutch multiple times with no change. The bike continues forward while the clutch is pulled in and the bike is in gear. it doesn't move forward with enough "power" to move from a stop only continues to move when slowing down. also, not sure if it is related but my average full economy has dropped about 5-6 mpg as indicated on the dash and by requiring a fill up at 155 miles. Any ideas of what else I should check?

dz

 

[dcstrom]

I've found that the type of oil used can change the behaviour of the clutch. At my last change I used Yamalube 15/50 Full Synthetic. I'd never used it before and it wasn't my first choice, but it was the best second choice. After the oil change the clutch was dragging. Like you I could feel the extra drive when slowing down with the clutch in. Also with the bike on the centerstand and in gear, I couldn't stop the rear wheel from spinning when the bike was in gear with the clutch in.

I was worried for a while, but within 1000 miles it stopped doing it. I'm guessing the viscosity of the oil is reduced just enought that behaviour is back to normal. That's the only thing that makes sense to me anyway... Did you recently change oil?

 

[longride]

Clutch slave may be leaking or not operating correctly. And as mentioned, oil could be sticking the plates a bit.

 

[The Ferret]

does it make a difference by adjusting the lever for maximum reach, thereby giving maximum push on the master cyclinder?

 

[avc8130]

Bleed your hydraulic clutch.

ac

 

[EJV]

If the constant bleeding (zip tie the handle to the bar, vac bleed from the bottom) does not work.......
The clutch plates are "burned and warped".
(outer will be "blued" more than inner.)
You can hit them with sand paper and swap them around in the clutch pack too, ymmv.
Oil can make a difference also.

I have ignored the drag (more when stuck in traffic, less now) and my new friction/plates are still sitting in the box waiting.

Maybe this winter, wait, it's winter, ah, next winter. Maybe.

EJ

 

[~TABASCO~]

The master cylinder might need to be rebuilt with a new plunger.. Its about $20 US if I remember correctly...

 

[Ironhand]

The master cylinder might need to be rebuilt with a new plunger.. Its about $20 US if I remember correctly...

^^What he said...assuming that you've bled the clutch properly, something is wrong. It sounds to me like the clutch is not disengaging fully. A small amount of drag is normal, but its only created by the "friction" of the oil trapped between the clutch plates/steels. No oil, no matter the weight should be the cause of what you describe. How does the clutch feel when you take off from a complete stop? A chatter or pulsing feeling may verify the warped steels theory. How does the oil smell? A fried clutch smells a lot like overheated brakes.

 

[cosmic]

I had the sam "problem" recently. Oil was Motul V300 40-10 fully. There was some drag, but not enough to move the bike, especially with me on it. We opened the clutch for inspection. There was nothing particularly wrong, except some minor wear on the discs. Bled out the clutch, greased everything and put back together. This time i went for the usual oil, Yamalube fully sint 40-10. Same thing again. I ordered a spare set of discs, and decided I'll keep running like this until eventual clutch disc slip. So far so good. I don't mind the drag, as long is not slipping.

©

 

[zimmerdj]

lot's of ideas....thanks. I changed the oil over 1000miles ago and its still happening. i'll have to look when I get home but I remember using a different oil this time because they were out of my usual brand.

I think this weekend i'll change the oil and take apart the clutch. how tough is it to take the clutch apart?

 

[Paul466]

just a shot in the dark but: Notched clutch basket? plates will not slide freely causing this?

 

[cosmic]

lot's of ideas....thanks. I changed the oil over 1000miles ago and its still happening. i'll have to look when I get home but I remember using a different oil this time because they were out of my usual brand.

I think this weekend i'll change the oil and take apart the clutch. how tough is it to take the clutch apart?

It's very easy. I'm pretty sure
You'll find everything to be in good order, just like I did.

©

 

[scott123007]

how tough is it to take the clutch apart?

Any 'ol moron can take shit apart. It's putting it back together correctly that's the problem. If you don't have a service manual, I'd advise getting one

 

[EJV]

Look at the online parts diagram. P/N, P/N, P/N, P/N, etc.....done!

Easy.

(I dare you to re-use the case gasket....)

 

[rfulcher]

This sounds much like the problem I had with my 07 FJR. When the clutch was taken apart the friction plates had a black sticky deposit. This was referred to by some as a "dry" clutch and happened to a few 2nd generation FJRs. The fix for me was new clutch plates at 12,000 miles. I think some people were able to clean the clutch plates and fix the problem. If you do a search for "dry clutch" you may find more info on the FJR forum. One recommendation was to soak the clutch plates in motor oil overnight prior to installing. I am still pissed that my warranty did not cover the new clutch plates.

 

[Ron_Luning]

Before tearing everything apart, it may be worth one last bleeding attempt. I had the drag, but no loss of fuel mileage on my bike. Bled the clutch several times and it never resolved the issue for long. Finally i bled it and also cracked the master cylinder banjo bolt open and quickly shut it while holding pressure on the clutch lever. Fluid goes everywhere so use rags to catch it. That worked for me. If that doesnt help, take it apart.

 

[zimmerdj]

i will try bleeding the clutch a few times and changing the oil before tearing it apart. in the manual it mentions a universal clutch holder - is this tool needed or just nice to have?

 

[EricV]

i will try bleeding the clutch a few times and changing the oil before tearing it apart. in the manual it mentions a universal clutch holder - is this tool needed or just nice to have?

I have my clutch apart now. You don't need the universal clutch holder if you're just pulling the plates out. The last two are retained on the Clutch Boss by a spring retainer, so don't worry about those, just leave them in.

The Universal Clutch Tool is to hold the clutch basket in place while you break the 30mm nut loose, (or torque it down), which is necessary if you are pulling the clutch basket, but not if you just want to inspect and remove the plates. If you want to pull the basket, an impact wrench works fine w/o the Universal Clutch Tool. Torquing may be another story. ???

FWIW, the 'fingers', (where the six bolts go in), on the clutch boss are just cast and not that strong.

And despite the service manual's 14 bolts reference, there are actually two more that are inside the perimeter of the clutch cover that also need to be removed before the cover comes off. It does come off easily when all the bolts are out. You don't need to remove the inspection cover.