Greetings All - I picked up an issue the other day and struggling to get to the bottom of it...
2013 Super Tenere (US spec) - only mod are TB screws backed out 3/4 turns, and a Barnett spring Clutch conversion.
1. riding home from work after cutting through some nasty road works (fan kicked in a few times as I squirrelled my way through the traffic)
2. A few minutes after clearing the traffic -now running normal temp - bike cuts out, CEL on, and then bike fires up again and runs ok for the rest of the trip.rom
3. Home now - let bike cool off and started fine...idled for a couple mins, I blipped the throttle, the bike dies and the CEL lights. Fired up again with CEL light and she seems to run fine.
A couple of variables I can throw in since sweet ride from Portland down to LA a few months ago:
a. Bike has been transported to Ireland (2 months transit in container)
b. Ran fine a for 2 weeks since arrival
c. New environment - new work is having me get mixed up with city traffic, road works, etc., so running hot a lot of the time
I have checked diagnostics and errors are pointing at a potentially faulty Oxygen sensor - quite plausible as the ones installed look original and I have 80k miles (130k kms) on the clock-OK. As an interim measure until replacements on order arrive, I picked some Oxygen Sensor eliminators, installed then and they make not one bit of difference (WTF?).
Im pretty sure what I am looking at here is the old open and closed loops - from cold (open loop and uses the ECU default map) and then switches over to closed loop when the engine warms up a bit. It seems at the point the fuelling switches to closed loop the really rough idle (like dropping a cylinder) starts, and dies unless I keep on the throttle. Ive also changed over batteries, with the idea that the ECU would get cleared by disconnecting the battery. That didn't work.
SO, while I await delivery of the new O2 sensors, I would like to know if anyone else has had similar issues, and if so, was it a simple O2 sensor replacement and nothing more? I dread the thought of potential endless component replacement until eventually I get to the bottom of it! I did speak to one of the major bike shops in the area and due to high mileage, they didn't want to touch the bike, citing things that seals and wheel bearings might need replacing, etc. - thats after I explained the symptoms. In response, I asked off they had ever done a valve adjustment on an S10 - .."sure, we do those all the time. Takes an hour or so..". Needless to say I'm steering clear. What a bunch of donkeys...
Any advice would be appreciated...
Thanks- Karl
2013 Super Tenere (US spec) - only mod are TB screws backed out 3/4 turns, and a Barnett spring Clutch conversion.
1. riding home from work after cutting through some nasty road works (fan kicked in a few times as I squirrelled my way through the traffic)
2. A few minutes after clearing the traffic -now running normal temp - bike cuts out, CEL on, and then bike fires up again and runs ok for the rest of the trip.rom
3. Home now - let bike cool off and started fine...idled for a couple mins, I blipped the throttle, the bike dies and the CEL lights. Fired up again with CEL light and she seems to run fine.
A couple of variables I can throw in since sweet ride from Portland down to LA a few months ago:
a. Bike has been transported to Ireland (2 months transit in container)
b. Ran fine a for 2 weeks since arrival
c. New environment - new work is having me get mixed up with city traffic, road works, etc., so running hot a lot of the time
I have checked diagnostics and errors are pointing at a potentially faulty Oxygen sensor - quite plausible as the ones installed look original and I have 80k miles (130k kms) on the clock-OK. As an interim measure until replacements on order arrive, I picked some Oxygen Sensor eliminators, installed then and they make not one bit of difference (WTF?).
Im pretty sure what I am looking at here is the old open and closed loops - from cold (open loop and uses the ECU default map) and then switches over to closed loop when the engine warms up a bit. It seems at the point the fuelling switches to closed loop the really rough idle (like dropping a cylinder) starts, and dies unless I keep on the throttle. Ive also changed over batteries, with the idea that the ECU would get cleared by disconnecting the battery. That didn't work.
SO, while I await delivery of the new O2 sensors, I would like to know if anyone else has had similar issues, and if so, was it a simple O2 sensor replacement and nothing more? I dread the thought of potential endless component replacement until eventually I get to the bottom of it! I did speak to one of the major bike shops in the area and due to high mileage, they didn't want to touch the bike, citing things that seals and wheel bearings might need replacing, etc. - thats after I explained the symptoms. In response, I asked off they had ever done a valve adjustment on an S10 - .."sure, we do those all the time. Takes an hour or so..". Needless to say I'm steering clear. What a bunch of donkeys...
Any advice would be appreciated...
Thanks- Karl