Running Rough IN Wisconsin
- Thread starter motoguy
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In your original post you mentioned this condition is there in the first three gears, have you tried it in 4th 5th ? The reason I ask is that the circuitry (restriction), is mapped into the bike in those gears, I know its a wild one but process of elimination. It's difficult to diagnose a mechanical function that is controlled by computer. The next thing to look at is which cylinder is misfiring ? Both at different times? Same one? Could there be a short at one of the plug wires? Or a short at one of the injectors, (unplug and plug). I think electrical is going to be the problem if the injectors are not partially blocked. Try disconnecting the battery for awhile so the computer can maybe reset. Please keep us posted with what you have done.
Koinz
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Sure it does. A sitting bike is a troubled bikemotoguy said:
Oil drains to the bottom; Things begin to corrode, solenoids stick, seals get hard, etc..... I try to start mine up in the winter a few times to keep things lubricated. I know it's not always possible, but it keeps things moving freely.One of the reasons I went to this dealer was the fact that they still have a 2012 and a 2013 on the floor. I've been a mech for a long time and at a dealership you have the ability to use a donar to confirm your diagnosis. If the repair manuals say replace ECU you better make sure that's the fix before you charge the cust. $3000 for a new one. I'm going to the dealership today and get the lowdown or if I need to find another. It's a 40 mile drive and the next dealership is 2 hours. My local dealership has never seen a S10. I think I have the only one in a 100 mile radius.Derekj said:
Fpalbrecht
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Where in Wisconsin as are you?
Ok I'll give you that. If a tight valve is suspected then I would have had issues last year correct? If a sticky bucket/valve is suspected would it be advised to run seafoam in the oil to free it up?? Or would that cause more headaches?Koinz said:Sure it does. A sitting bike is a troubled bike
Koinz
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adding additives to the oil is like a religious debate. Some people swear by them, other's frown upon it. I think I would start with a compression check. If you're dealer is charging you a Sh"T load, I would expect that they did that. If so, what were the results. I can't believe the dealer couldn't give some sort of diagnose if they're charging you so much.
if compression is good, you can try an additive and take it for a 20 mile ride. it might help. A valve check would also be a good idea.
As autoteach mentioned. you have to go through the basics first.
if compression is good, you can try an additive and take it for a 20 mile ride. it might help. A valve check would also be a good idea.
As autoteach mentioned. you have to go through the basics first.
I spoke withe the mechanic today, the backfire is gone but the bike will act up at steady rpm. Sometimes dropping a cyl. and sometimes increasing rpm. He did compare settings etc. withe the other bikes on the floor . One on the floor actually does the same thing but not so extreme. Software seems to be the suspect as of right now. They want me to take the bike for a 20+ mile ride and see if I think it better or not. Waiting for Yamaha to get back to them. Hopefully Yamaha will throw me a bone on this.
I've been around here for a while. So on occasion, something pops up that is, at first glance at least, a one-off anomaly.
This might very well be one.
But if it were mine, I'd be messing with the wiring harness(s) and moving them around and yanking and pulling on them to absolutely remove the possibility that this is one of those few bikes that had crazy behavior as a result of interference in the wiring.
This might very well be one.
But if it were mine, I'd be messing with the wiring harness(s) and moving them around and yanking and pulling on them to absolutely remove the possibility that this is one of those few bikes that had crazy behavior as a result of interference in the wiring.
I suggested disconnecting the battery for a while. Then take it for a run. I think it's somewhat confused.
tomatocity
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Don't remember if you did... run a fuel additive? How about using Yamalube Ring Free Plus. This would eliminate fuel issues and cleanup the valves and combustion chamber.
Throttles bodies have been sync'd.
Sticky valve buckets? As you mentioned... an oil additive could help?
Wiring? As other have said... disconnecting, checking for corrosion, and reconnecting. Checking for rodent damage.
Remove air filter, remove airbox, remove throttle bodies, check (view) intake valves for carbon buildup... re-install throttle bodies, re-install airbox, make sure all vacuum lines are correct, install air cleaner.
None of these are expensive though do require hands-on and take time.
Throttles bodies have been sync'd.
Sticky valve buckets? As you mentioned... an oil additive could help?
Wiring? As other have said... disconnecting, checking for corrosion, and reconnecting. Checking for rodent damage.
Remove air filter, remove airbox, remove throttle bodies, check (view) intake valves for carbon buildup... re-install throttle bodies, re-install airbox, make sure all vacuum lines are correct, install air cleaner.
None of these are expensive though do require hands-on and take time.
autoteach
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If parts swapping is the way to diagnosis, a mechanic can save lots of money on diagnostic equipment. Problem is that it costs the customer. every. time.
autoteach said:
Teach - I totally agree with you. Unfortunately, it's what is taught these days, usually it gives a fairly direct worked/didn't work answer, and of course there is profit in it.
But as Snake alluded, we also now and then get a gremlin hiding somewhere that is darned elusive to find. By memory, the first Tenere that SAIL2XXS had developed a stumble at about 70,000-ish miles and they threw everything imaginable at it, including an entire new wiring harness. He was fortunate to have the YES extended warranty for that one! It still didn't run perfectly when he sold it at 130,000.
Could it be something as simpl.e as cracked rubber nipples on the throttle bodies letting air enter? Good luck.
Just spoke with the dealership again today. Sounds as though Yamaha has "thrown me a bone". I'm told that they will take it from here. Yamaha suspects the throttle boddies and want to start by replacing the whole assembly Parts and labor included. I know that the TPS and APS are part of that assembly as well as the injectors. This is a life saver for me as the bill is at $850 now.
I agree, there is more respect for a Mechanic than a Parts changer. The technician working on it is reluctant to do so too. Then he has 2 bikes torn apart and I would have to pay the time for both. Depends on the cost of the part I guess. The ECU is around $1200 alone, he has done a lot of research and time on this. A lot of shops pay their Tech's flat rate which is good and bad for the tech, sometimes forcing the mech. to make hasty decisions to beat the rate that he is getting paid. But then again judging by your screen name you probably already know this( no belittling intended). So far the shop is only charging the actual time on the bike.autoteach said:
Motoguy - any update on this? I'm having a similar sort of issue... had it 13000 miles ago, seemed to be fixed with new plugs and general checkover of all places where an air leak might be a problem (so... I don't know exactly what fixed it). But now it's a bit soon to be plugs again. Seems to be water related too, last time it started after a bunch of rain, same this time. Just looking for clues before I tear into it tomorrow.