Rear headlight cover and LED option

EricV

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mebgardner said:
You guys rock. Thanks for being so kind, and inviting.
Just keep saying what you think and it's a good thing. ::008::

The SMD chips are not as efficient as the CSP chips. Surface Mount Device needs some solder and wires to the board. Chip Scale Package chips are essentially mounted direct to the board and no need for solder or wires. This means lower resistance, lower heat and greater efficiency in terms of watts to lumens produced. I would have loved to have found an example of CSP chips in a fully self contained LED package, but no joy. The SMD chips don't put as much light out per watt, but these are more than double the wattage of the NightEye units, so it should be interesting how much light, Vs how much heat, is produced, and what kind of beam pattern results with the Super Ten headlights.
 

2daMax

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EricV said:
@2daMax - Care to comment on THIS style of bulb? First time I've seen this type of fully contained COB LED bulb. I do wonder about heat dissipation, but at the price point, I may give them a try just to broaden the knowledge base on LED lights, for the Super Tenere forum.

There are various versions of this type, of varying wattage and claimed lumen output. These claim 60 watts and 6000 lm each, so drawing comparable power to the oem halogen bulbs and significantly more power draw than the NightEye's 25 watts per unit, but a bit more lumens too.
Hi EricV,

I have to say I am no expert in lightings, however I did a short stint in my professional work working out on light tracing and came to understand about light source and reflectors, aka illumination. The other more difficult field is imaging which is more towards camera applications. Some of the optical mouse sensors you guys are using, I may have a hand in its design. :)

For the linky you provided, I have my reservations on the 60W lumens specifications, because there isn't much heat sinks to dissipate the heat. IMO, I do not think it is 60W. It is more like 5W max.

On the illumination side, it appears to reflect the light using the conical reflective lens but this method would fail to focus where it matters (to resemble stock H7 halogen filament light source). it may be 6000 lumens, but the useful light may just well be 1000 lumens. This kind of bulb is meant for DRL where illuminating the road ahead is not its function.
 

EricV

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Thanks for your input 2daMax, I appreciate your taking the time to respond. Based on your comments, it should be immediately apparent that the light output is unimpressive, compared even to the halogen bulb, though color temp will vary, output and beam cast should tell the tale.
 

2daMax

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Decided to check if my vertical position of the headlight is correct. Nope, they were not. Mostly my own fault because when I had the COB H7, I adjusted it more downwards to get decent illumination but sacrificing distance. I found a diagram showing the bike's distance to the 'garage door' of 5 m and drop it by 5mm down from the headlamp middle point height. I didn't have 5m in my porch, had 2.5m, so by similar triangles, it should drop 2.5cm.

So I adjusted with many turns to the geared adjuster with a Philips #2 screwdriver to get it to around 5cm (instead of 2.5cm) and stopped there. I thought that maybe these Nighteyes may not illuminate well if the angle is too shallow, and the high beam probably shoots at the tree tops. How WRONG was I. it worked great, and would have been better if I have aimed for 2.5cm drop. So here's a testimony that the Nighteyes with 3 LEDS per side works like a normal Halogen H7. But being White light with 6500K color, the contrast it makes on rough asphalt surfaces is not as great as a 3300K yellowish light.

I am using H4 nighteyes (12 LEDs) for my car. It worked so well that I do not have to use the high beam. And I never noticed Road signs, Road side commercials that was so brightly lit. It somehow got the light to reflect to sideways.
 

mebgardner

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Re: Replacement Dust Cover for LED head lamps

2daMax said:
OK, this is better than the one I showed earlier, much cheaper and better fitment. But, you need to be able to accept using a toilet part.

Available in Ace Hardware, or any other hardware stores.

This is a 3" diameter rubber pipe coupler. There is a 2.5" diameter being sold, so don't take this size.


Sorry for the pink sponges, but that's all I could find to secure down that driver. I am purchasing another H7 LED set that does not have these Current Drivers configured this way.
I went to Ace HW yesterday, looking for this "pan connector" / toilet flange.

Not unsurprisingly, they don't sell rubber flanges anymore. Neither does Home Depot.

2damax gave this New Zealand parts distributor as a reference:

https://www.bunnings.com.au/our-range/bathroom-plumbing/plumbing/pipe-fittings/pan-connectors

... and indicated we want the 3 in. model. Well, the NZ website lists a 38 mm, and a 50 mm part, but not a 75 mm part (which is approx. 3 in.). Neither 38 nor 50 mm parts shown, indicate what the "larger hole" size is on the opposite end of the flange.

I think we want the 38 mm flange shown, and I'm guessing that the opposite end is either 2.5 in., or 3 in. but there's no option for that selection.

So, I'm confused.
 

mebgardner

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Well, I was warned, right? I'm pretty sure those parts are unobtanium in the USA.

Time for *me* to be clever, and think of something else. At the moment, I'm thinking: heavy duty trash bag, corner of bag, cut to fit, black electrician tape around the housing, and twist tie around the LED shaft, so to expose the rear facing fins to air.

That should seal things up OK...
 

Checkswrecks

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There are other rubber items which could be cut to fit. For example try to find one of these un-used:
 

mebgardner

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Thanks 2damax, those will be good choices. Apparently, I did not try hard enough. Thank You!!

As for your choice, Checks, I cant tell if you're being sarcastic or not. There was a slew of stuff went through my brain when I saw that pic. Funny!!

This whole thread has gone to the crapper :)
 

EricV

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mebgardner

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I bought this from eBay, based on the pictures from 2damax:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Dust-Cover-For-Car-Motorcycle-LED-HID-HEADLIGHT-KIT-Bulbs-H1-H4-H7-H11-9005-6-/121650506739?hash=item1c52ef6bf3:g:fAMAAOSwpdpVZQW2&vxp=mtr

I had a huge amount of trouble with the AliExpress website. I think I would try again but only under conditions of not being able to find what I want anywhere else. What a trial that was...
 

mebgardner

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EricV said:
In regards to not finding the plumbing part at ACE. Is this your huckleberry?
http://www.hardwareandtools.com/fernco-p1056-315-3-by-1-1-2-coupling-abga-4488.html

I'm sure various plumbing supply places will have these, just make a few calls to your local plumbing supply houses. It's a common part still in the US, just not carried by every place that sells plumbing items.
Yeah, that's it. That would work, also. Thanks EricV!

Now we have some good choices. Thanks for your help, folks.
 

2daMax

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mebgardner, hope you are LED-ly enLIGHTened. Enjoy cooler and whiter illumination :)

Do have the headlights properly adjusted for best effects. I remember that if the Philips head screw driver rotates CW, headlamp adjusts upwards.
 

snakebitten

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Actually, we are ALL now LED-ly enLIGHTened!

Thanks man.
 

mebgardner

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I finished installing my LED Headlights.

I used these NightEye LEDs, obtained on eBay. Search for : "Nighteye H7 8000LM LED Headlight Conversion Kit Car Bulb Fog Driving Light 6500K"




Then, I used these dust covers, also obtained from eBay. Search for : "2x Dust Cover For Car Motorcycle LED/HID HEADLIGHT KIT Bulbs H1 H4 H7 H11 9005/6:




... and the assembled product looks like:




The LEDs installed easily. They twist in a supplied mechanical (not electrical) socket, so you remove the LED from the socket by twisting about 1/4 turn CCW, and pull it from the socket, and set it aside.

Then, remove the halogen H7, noting how it comes out of the housing. Install the socket in it's place following the H7 key / notch, and latch that socket into place in the headlight housing.

Hold the dustcover in place over the (still empty) socket. Pull the H7 headlight cycle wiring through the dust cover rear hole. Now, carefully push the LED "stalk" into / through the dustcover hole, and then into the socket. Give it a clockwise 1/4 turn twist to lock it into the socket. Mate the LED wire to the cycle wire socket.

Turn on the cycle motor, and test the lighting.

Done.

It takes all of half an hour for both.
 

2daMax

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Glad it worked out. You may need to adjust the vertical positioning so that the beams are right.

On the key/notch, it is good to note that they are at the 7'O clock position.
 

Checkswrecks

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Very nice and a LOT less than I paid for the Cyclops lights.
 

stomp347

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Thanks for sharing. I just ordered this set-up. I have brand new set of Cyclops sitting on my bench with a busted wire. I tried fitting all that shit in there and just lost my patience. F that.
 
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