Penske shock

tiogajoe

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I'm fortunate enough to have Nick live just a few miles from me. After a few phone conversations I took my S10 to him to have the stock suspension properly set-up for me. As most know the rear shock needs to have the preload maxed out to even get the sag close to being correct for a 200lb plus rider with gear and luggage. After a couple of adjustments I could not believe the difference in how my bike handled! Nick surely knows his stuff and I learned alot just spending the afternoon with him watching him work on my bike. This convinced me to bite the bullet and replace the rear shock with the Penske unit. I cant wait to have him install it. I will probaly do the forks in the future when they need to be serviced. The stock fork adjustments seemed to be enough for me to work with for now. For those of you that have gone with just the rear shock, do you feel the upgrade has made a big difference? I've read alot of comments when folks got in on the group buy from Nick. Just wondering how you feel about your shock after having some miles on it?
 

avc8130

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Penske/Stoltec's favorite fanboy here.

LOVE the shock. Single best upgrade I did to the bike. As the miles pour on, the confidence continues. I've had no issues or complaints in 10k miles.

The forks are less dramatic, but still a worthy upgrade to match the shock. The proper springs and excellent flow characteristics of Nick's fork kit is excellent at planting the front end. The upgraded pistons flow much better than stock and really let the forks work over the littler road imperfections. His shim stack is darn good and the forks can swallow up large impacts with the best of them.

ac
 

Karson

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I have the 8983 rear - installed it last year. Was a dream for me when solo @ ~200lbs, but I needed the 850lb spring for two-up. I plan on leaving the 850 on 90% of the time, unless I get the green light to go on a extended trip solo, I might switch back to the 750.

Nick's a good dude to work with - you're lucky you're so close!
 

OkState

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Nick has my forks (shipped from Ok) and shock on order. Should have everything back in about a week pending shipping, very much looking forward to it. I'll be doing 2500 mile round trip shortly after its back together.
 

Karson

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limey

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Thanks Karson this will help me out big time.
Paul..
 

coastie

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Cool, Just got my Penske. These spreadsheets will help. I attempted to install my shock tonight, but the bottom bracket was rotated 90 degrees and the ride hight adjustment was bottomed out against the jam nut. Need to go out tomorrow and buy big wrenches to adjust it. Not sure why they did not use the measurements from the stock shock and set the ride height, so the shock would just slide right in.
 

Rasher

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Been messing with my suspension this week, rode to work / back with different settings:

-6 on Lo Compression
-6 on Hi Compression
-6 On Both Compression
-6 On Rebound

-6 on everything except......

You get the picture, but it was real handy to get a feel for what the adjusters do, the first things I noticed was my stiffer spring works quite well with little compression damping, and backing off rebound damping made as much difference to a nice ride over bumps as the compression did - most importantly I have discovered I can run much softer settings.

Now I will run more normal settings starting 3 clicks lower on everything (where it gives a comfy ride and still handles quite well, in fact it is perfect for bumpy roads as it is now) adjusting one thing at a time and taking notes, my usual theory is only add rebound to control wallow, but will still mess with it so I am certain it applies on this bike.
 

coastie

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Re: Re: Penske shock

Rasher said:
Been messing with my suspension this week, rode to work / back with different settings:

-6 on Lo Compression
-6 on Hi Compression
-6 On Both Compression
-6 On Rebound

-6 on everything except......

You get the picture, but it was real handy to get a feel for what the adjusters do, the first things I noticed was my stiffer spring works quite well with little compression damping, and backing off rebound damping made as much difference to a nice ride over bumps as the compression did - most importantly I have discovered I can run much softer settings.

Now I will run more normal settings starting 3 clicks lower on everything (where it gives a comfy ride and still handles quite well, in fact it is perfect for bumpy roads as it is now) adjusting one thing at a time and taking notes, my usual theory is only add rebound to control wallow, but will still mess with it so I am certain it applies on this bike.
Yea the manual explains this. Hopefully I can get the shock in today, then will set sag and then go out and fine tune following the manual. Did you set the sag for fully loaded with gear? If you did how did you not the position of loaded and unloaded. Does the preload adjustment click?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
 

avc8130

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coastie said:
Cool, Just got my Penske. These spreadsheets will help. I attempted to install my shock tonight, but the bottom bracket was rotated 90 degrees and the ride hight adjustment was bottomed out against the jam nut. Need to go out tomorrow and buy big wrenches to adjust it. Not sure why they did not use the measurements from the stock shock and set the ride height, so the shock would just slide right in.
Coastie,

Generally the ride height bottomed out IS stock height. The ride height is only to ADD rear height unless you specifically ordered otherwise.

You don't need to loosen anything, or get any big wrenches. The only thing preventing the bottom from spinning is spring preload. Take 2 screwdrivers, place one in the top eyelet and the other in the bottom clevis and rotate. The piston and everything is free to rotate in the shock body. If that doesn't work easily enough for you, loosen the spring preload and it will rotate much easier.

Set the sag however you plan to ride the bike. Generally the difference from single-rider alone to fully loaded is ~2-4 turns additional preload. The easiest thing to do is set the sag for how you will ride "day to day". Then when you load up for a trip, just count the turns or amount of "holes" you use to spin the adjuster. There are no clicks.

To adjust the damping, first put the compression in the middle of the range. Put the rebound in the middle also. Adjust the rebound by bouncing the rear of the motorcycle. You want the rear to rebound controlled and not come to a hard stop. In other words, you want the rear to rebound so it returns to the rider sag without blowing through the static sag and topping out.

Then take the bike for a ride. Adjust compression for comfort and adjust the rebound for traction/handling/comfort balance.

Let us know how you make out.

ac
 

coastie

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avc8130 said:
Coastie,

Generally the ride height bottomed out IS stock height. The ride height is only to ADD rear height unless you specifically ordered otherwise.

You don't need to loosen anything, or get any big wrenches. The only thing preventing the bottom from spinning is spring preload. Take 2 screwdrivers, place one in the top eyelet and the other in the bottom clevis and rotate. The piston and everything is free to rotate in the shock body. If that doesn't work easily enough for you, loosen the spring preload and it will rotate much easier.

Set the sag however you plan to ride the bike. Generally the difference from single-rider alone to fully loaded is ~2-4 turns additional preload. The easiest thing to do is set the sag for how you will ride "day to day". Then when you load up for a trip, just count the turns or amount of "holes" you use to spin the adjuster. There are no clicks.

To adjust the damping, first put the compression in the middle of the range. Put the rebound in the middle also. Adjust the rebound by bouncing the rear of the motorcycle. You want the rear to rebound controlled and not come to a hard stop. In other words, you want the rear to rebound so it returns to the rider sag without blowing through the static sag and topping out.

Then take the bike for a ride. Adjust compression for comfort and adjust the rebound for traction/handling/comfort balance.

Let us know how you make out.

ac
Thanks a Bunch avc8130! I really appreciate you taking the time to explain this. This just saved me a bunch of time.
 

Rasher

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I always order a remote pre-load adjuster for my shocks as it makes it easy to adjust for passengers and / or luggage.
 

Dallara

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Rasher said:
I always order a remote pre-load adjuster for my shocks as it makes it easy to adjust for passengers and / or luggage.

IIRC, Penske doesn't offer a remote preload adjuster. But with their unique preload adjuster and the shock's location on the Super Tenere they don't need one. With the little tool they give you with the shock (which is tiny and fits easily under the seat, or even in your pocket) it is ridiculously easy - and fast - to adjust the preload. One little tool, no locking collars, etc., and about 15 seconds and you're good to go.

Dallara



~
 

Rasher

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Dallara said:
it is ridiculously easy - and fast - to adjust the preload. One little tool, no locking collars, etc., and about 15 seconds and you're good to go.
Sweet ::008::

That's what I meant really, if you regularly ride two-up or change the load / use a lot then being able to adjust the pre-load quickly is very important, my S10 on my pre-load settings is awful two-up, and as I can swop from Solo to two-up a couple of times a week in the summer removing the shock / bashing a lock ring / stripping my fingers of skin is not an option.
 

avc8130

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Rasher said:
Sweet ::008::

That's what I meant really, if you regularly ride two-up or change the load / use a lot then being able to adjust the pre-load quickly is very important, my S10 on my pre-load settings is awfu
l two-up, and as I can swop from Solo to two-up a couple of times a week in the summer removing the shock / bashing a lock ring / stripping my fingers of skin is not an option.
oof. I remember those days on the dirt bikes. Double lock rings with a punch and hammer are no fun.

The Penske is much easier...especially on the S10. With the bike on the center stand the only force to overcome is the spring preload itself. The access from the right side is very good on this bike.

Hydraulic would be nice, but they are more expensive.

ac
 

nondairycreamer

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How often does Penske recommend a rebuild? Ohlin I think is 20k miles. And can anyone give a rough estimate for the Stoltec fork modifications? The website looks abandoned.

Thanks
 

coastie

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Re: Re: Penske shock

nondairycreamer said:
How often does Penske recommend a rebuild? Ohlin I think is 20k miles. And can anyone give a rough estimate for the Stoltec fork modifications? The website looks abandoned.

Thanks
Just shoot them an email and they will get back with you the very same day. They have exceptional service. He is VERY busy, place your order well ahead of time.

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