Helicoil is the way to fix it. A proper kit comes with the drill bit, the tap, the insertion tool, and a few coils. I've never liked oversized plugs in aluminum, the stresses scare me a bit. I've done a bunch over the years, drain plugs, cam caps, waterpump, exhaust manifolds, and I've seen all the headbolts done on an Aurora. (don't buy one if you can help it) Once you get over the "I'm drilling a hole in my engine!" and "I need to run this tap in how far?" And "How does this insert tool thingy work?" It's a piece of cake. ::010::
I didn't watch the video, so this may be a repeat. Pointers: Run as much heavy grease into the flutes of the drill bit as will fit, it will catch the chips instead of going in the engine. Run the drill as slow as it takes to keep the grease from flinging off and don't force it. A new bit will catch on aluminum before you can stop it. Again with the grease on the Helicoil tap for the same reason. Work the tap a quarter turn at a time, then back a half, then forward again. Keeps the cutting edges clear. Spray cleaner, like a brake clean, needs to be used on the new threads. Caution, a lot of your carb cleaners are too hot, they lift paint. Yes, cleaner will wind up in the engine. Let the cleaned threads dry a few seconds. With the helicoil threaded onto the insert tool thingy, apply a good thredlocker, I use red, just because. Let the locker dry properly after you've inserted the new coil to the point it's flush with the surface. If the coil's cross bar is going to clear the new drain plug, leave it. If not, you're going to have to get fancy with some needlenose. Now, you probably have been doing all this with the bike laying over on it's right side, or wishing you had. But anyway, you need to flush the space that you just operated on. Pour some oil into the hole if the bike's on it's side, then stand it up and the fluid should carry any stray bits out. With the bike standing, or leaning left, you can spray the remainder of the brake clean into the hole and have it wash things out too. Lay the bike over to the left to carry as much of the various fluids out. The brake clean will mostly evaporate over an hour or so. You're gonna want to waste three and half quarts of cheap oil with an engine warm up and drain and then start all new again with filter and your choice of oil.
With the chemistry, and never having done one, it's gonna take some time. On a hoist, and short cuts, because it was just a damned oil change afterall, it's less than 15 minutes for me. In the end, you wind up with the same size hole as you started with. Pretty slick.
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