No headlights... not the sub harness... ECU?!?!

Yamaguy55

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You can get into the epoxy ones, but you have to have the right equipment and the skill to use it. Not for the home brew crowd.

External switch would certainly work until a decision on how to continue is had. Cheap and quick, too.
 

avc8130

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Yamaguy55 said:
You can get into the epoxy ones, but you have to have the right equipment and the skill to use it. Not for the home brew crowd.

External switch would certainly work until a decision on how to continue is had. Cheap and quick, too.
Depends how you look at it. IF the only other option is to buy a new $900 ECU...I'd be attempting the epoxy.

For something like this, I would just rewire the headlight circuit and move on with life. $900 is just too much for me to care to fix it back to stock.

ac
 

greg the pole

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I have to agree with AC.
Unless yamaha goes to bat, file it with the NHSA or what ever they are called, complain to yamaha, and go riding.
 

Brick

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Well I got the call today. Yamaha said my bike was 12 months out of warranty and that they could be if no assistance.
Pretty much what I expected.

Now... Well I'm thinking that I might just put a switch to the relay. That way I can turn them on/off as I wish.

Got better ideas??



Brick
 

greg the pole

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Brick said:
Well I got the call today. Yamaha said my bike was 12 months out of warranty and that they could be if no assistance.
Pretty much what I expected.

Now... Well I'm thinking that I might just put a switch to the relay. That way I can turn them on/off as I wish.

Got better ideas??



Brick
put in a relay to control the ground wire, off a accessory wire.
Unless you have other lights, they should be on 100% of the time.
 

Brick

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So Greg on Pole,
You are saying I should put a relay to turn on a relay. This way when I turn the key on the headlights will come on immediately and will be on while I start the bike. This draw of power during the start process is what was trying to be avoided in the first place.
Isn't that correct?



Brick
 

avc8130

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Brick said:
So Greg on Pole,
You are saying I should put a relay to turn on a relay. This way when I turn the key on the headlights will come on immediately and will be on while I start the bike. This draw of power during the start process is what was trying to be avoided in the first place.
Isn't that correct?



Brick
Brick,

You can do just about anything.

1. Just wire in a standalone switch to ground the current relay.
2. Wire in a relay that is triggered by the ignition so the lights come on whenever the key is on.
3. Wire in a relay that is triggered by the oil pressure switch so the lights come on whenever there is oil pressure (engine running). Realize with this method the lights would turn off should the engine "stall" for any reason, so a latching relay might be desired.

ac
 

Curt

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Early on, fredz43 suggested tapping into one of the accessory plugs. That is the best idea to get something near stock functionality without having to replace the ECU.

Three prong aux lights connector
red/white wire is always on and is high power
brown wire is on exactly when the ignition switch is on, can operate a relay
black is ground
Aux light plug thread: http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=1579.0

Heated grip plug
Blue/black=12V when ignition is on
Black/green=12V when engine is running, can operate a relay

Black=Ground
Green/White=goes to ECU
 

Brick

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Curt,
That Fred43 is a good guy and pretty smart too... ::008::

Thanks for the notes on possible wires to use AND a SUPER big Thank You for identifying what is on each pin! Now if I had a working ECU I could measure for sure what is coming out on the pin I/we have been calling ground... which somewhere I got the idea that IF it was a ground it was still a 5V potential ground I could try this. I guess if it's ground it's ground no matter if it is a 12V ground or a 5V ground... is that right?

Thanks for this input... keep it coming.


Curt said:
Early on, fredz43 suggested tapping into one of the accessory plugs. That is the best idea to get something near stock functionality without having to replace the ECU.

Three prong aux lights connector
red/white wire is always on and is high power
brown wire is on exactly when the ignition switch is on, can operate a relay
black is ground
Aux light plug thread: http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=1579.0

Heated grip plug
Blue/black=12V when ignition is on
Black/green=12V when engine is running, can operate a relay

Black=Ground
Green/White=goes to ECU
 

avc8130

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Brick said:
Curt,
That Fred43 is a good guy and pretty smart too... ::008::

Thanks for the notes on possible wires to use AND a SUPER big Thank You for identifying what is on each pin! Now if I had a working ECU I could measure for sure what is coming out on the pin I/we have been calling ground... which somewhere I got the idea that IF it was a ground it was still a 5V potential ground I could try this. I guess if it's ground it's ground no matter if it is a 12V ground or a 5V ground... is that right?

Thanks for this input... keep it coming.
Grounds is grounds.

ac
 

greg the pole

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Brick said:
So Greg on Pole,
You are saying I should put a relay to turn on a relay. This way when I turn the key on the headlights will come on immediately and will be on while I start the bike. This draw of power during the start process is what was trying to be avoided in the first place.
Isn't that correct?



Brick
just to clarify...im not on a pole... I'm a Pole :)

Right, now that is out of the way, yes, that's exactly what I'm telling you. The tenere has a large alternator, and a large battery to support all sorts of crap.
The fact that your headlights will be on for 1-3 seconds really doesn't matter. Find any suitable 12V ignition source, and get it to drive a relay to close the contact to a new ground, which will in turn ground your relay, close the contact, and turn on your lights. simple.

That way everything forward of the relay is bone stock. You're switching out one wire.
The headlight relay is made to take the spike, some off the shelf switch might not.
 

avc8130

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greg the pole said:
just to clarify...im not on a pole... I'm a Pole :)

Right, now that is out of the way, yes, that's exactly what I'm telling you. The tenere has a large alternator, and a large battery to support all sorts of crap.
The fact that your headlights will be on for 1-3 seconds really doesn't matter. Find any suitable 12V ignition source, and get it to drive a relay to close the contact to a new ground, which will in turn ground your relay, close the contact, and turn on your lights. simple.

That way everything forward of the relay is bone stock. You're switching out one wire.
The headlight relay is made to take the spike, some off the shelf switch might not.
If he uses the oil pressure sensor to trigger the new relay, the lights will only come on when the engine is running just like factory.

ac
 

Brick

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Greg... THE Pole
Thanks for that last input... It makes sense! I may just end up getting a new ECU... I'm undecided.
All y'all on this forum have been a treasure trove of valuable information and help.


Brick
 

pqsqac

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just to clarify...im not on a pole... I'm a Pole :)

HILARIOUS!!!
 

Yamaguy55

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avc8130 said:
If he uses the oil pressure sensor to trigger the new relay, the lights will only come on when the engine is running just like factory.

ac
We don't have an oil pressure switch. It is a level switch. So if there's oil n there and the ECU knows it, it will have power.

I'd do n external on-off powered by something that was "hot" when the key is on.
 

Zepfan

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My lights went down as I was driving home on the freeway, then up to my rural house on dark mountain roads. Ever try driving by flashing directional on.

Initial easy checks fuse, lamps, wire inspection are all good.

Most likely have to take into Yam shop where I go. Should I attempt to change the relay or test it? Where is it ? hehhheee Duuhhh I do have a volt meter! lol
Not allot of these problems it seems but if ECU....yikes.

Yam dealer most likely not do any mods. Aux. source / switch. It will take 2 weeks to schedule a appointment no night riding.
Thanks for any thoughts it's a '12 approaching 80k, allot of offroad.
 

Don in Lodi

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Zepfan said:
My lights went down as I was driving home on the freeway, then up to my rural house on dark mountain roads. Ever try driving by flashing directional on.

Initial easy checks fuse, lamps, wire inspection are all good.

Most likely have to take into Yam shop where I go. Should I attempt to change the relay or test it? Where is it ? hehhheee Duuhhh I do have a volt meter! lol
Not allot of these problems it seems but if ECU....yikes.

Yam dealer most likely not do any mods. Aux. source / switch. It will take 2 weeks to schedule a appointment no night riding.
Thanks for any thoughts it's a '12 approaching 80k, allot of offroad.

Did your bike get the headlight sub harness replaced?
 
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