I guess it's all what you're used to. When my wife rides with me, I max the preload and have never had any issues running through curves. I have changed the dampening/rebound depending on the road surface. I don't know if your mushy, and my mushy are the same thing, but increasing the rebound/dampening has a better effect than preload for my mushy.
My Re-Spring of the S10 ES Shock
- Thread starter Karl
- Start date
Walters S10
New Member
Here’s an example of what Im experiencing. The other night I got home from a ride and went to put the kickstand down, but it hit the ground so I had to lean the bike to the right to get it down. When I got off the bike it was almost like the bike was ready to fall to the right, so I grabbed the bike and pulled the top box to the left , so it was leaning the right way for the kickstand to work. If I pushed down on the back end it really didn’t spring back like most of the bikes I’ve had in the past. The new 2022 bike doesn’t do that but it’s new and tight. Lol.
Yeah, sounds like the shock is toast. The more preload you add the taller the bike gets. With full preload, two helmets & luggage, the bike should have a big lean onto the side stand. What you're describing is the opposite. On the other hand, if the previous owner lowered the bike, it could give the results you describe. More likely it's a bad shock.
Walters S10
New Member
As I was playing with the es while on the stand, the bike was going up and down as it should but I agree with you the shock and spring need attention. Lol. But so far I like the bike. Just trying to find some engine guards for Lisa’s bike. Thanks for the chat and stay safe out on the road !
These are what I'm using. Many here have gone with Altrider. And T-Rex has a great skid plate & crash bar combo that one of our members have torture tested.
Walters S10
New Member
Those look good !
WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
The ride or resting height has to do with the spring rate, preload and loading, not the shock.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Yeah, your right. I was not specific. But he spoke of the bike being nearly upright on the side stand, which would indicate too little preload, but he had it maxed. Then he advised that bike was raising/lowering as it should. Maybe not enough though? Have the dog bones been replaced? Is the spring worn out that much? Was it replaced by the PO to a lighter spring? (the least likely of all) Way beyond my measly knowledge.
Walters S10
New Member
All good questions. About $500 to replace the spring
Old Thread here, but has anyone followed up with Race Tech options? A little confused with their web site, and not sure whether it reflects the ES configuration still. Their spring calculator indicates the stock spring is 12.5 Kg/mm (~700 lbs/in). They do appear to sell the collar adapters at a reasonable price.
And the Springs are 2.25"i.d. vs 2.5"
Tenforeplay
Well-Known Member
After reading this thread and ciphering to the best of my abilities, for a newer ES machine, 180# in the birthday suit, say 200# in decent attire, usually ridden with normal accessories, no luggage, single rider.
I am thinking either a 500 or 525# spring, most likely the 500#er.
Would that be the 8" spring, 2.5” or 2.25" i.d.? Something like this if the link comes up https://www.summitracing.com/parts/eib-08002250500
Can someone point the direction for the spacer?
Thank you.
I am thinking either a 500 or 525# spring, most likely the 500#er.
Would that be the 8" spring, 2.5” or 2.25" i.d.? Something like this if the link comes up https://www.summitracing.com/parts/eib-08002250500
Can someone point the direction for the spacer?
Thank you.
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WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
2.5” spring. You’ll have to fabricate the spacer:
Attachments
Niterunnr
Active Member
Reading all this makes me so surprised manufacturers don’t offer different suspension kits from factory to be installed by dealers at time of purchase and easily swapped after a sale. This kind of after sale support is what manufacturers are always after in terms of maintenance, so why not to make the product perform as designed? Absolutely positive at least half of riders would spend on this upgrade. Certainly better than wasting $$$ on louder vroom vroom!
Tenforeplay
Well-Known Member
Tim sold a spacer on here so i contacted him and he is making one for me. i believe he has enough material for another if someone is wanting one. His weight and mine match up at 180# bna so I went with the 525# spring.
Doc_speeder
New Member
So hopefully it's ok if I resurrect this dying thread.
I'm sorry if my knowledge and thoughts are oversimplified...
Here's a list of what I think I know:
1) My understanding is that the 2.25" id springs were a direct fit without needing a spacer, and the old RT springs that are now discontinued were approx 8.75" long (222mm)
2) There are currently 2.25" ID springs available from Hypercoil here Hypercoil 8" 550lb springs.
3) 8" installed would not provide enough preload. Adding about 10MM should work for me with a 550lb spring I think, if my calculations of spring seat pressure are close to right
So my theory...
With a 2.25 id spring, couldn't you just use 2 of THESE? That seems like the easy button, and would be approx 11mm as they are .22" thick.
What am I missing here?
Thanks all.
I'm sorry if my knowledge and thoughts are oversimplified...
Here's a list of what I think I know:
1) My understanding is that the 2.25" id springs were a direct fit without needing a spacer, and the old RT springs that are now discontinued were approx 8.75" long (222mm)
2) There are currently 2.25" ID springs available from Hypercoil here Hypercoil 8" 550lb springs.
3) 8" installed would not provide enough preload. Adding about 10MM should work for me with a 550lb spring I think, if my calculations of spring seat pressure are close to right
So my theory...
With a 2.25 id spring, couldn't you just use 2 of THESE? That seems like the easy button, and would be approx 11mm as they are .22" thick.
What am I missing here?
Thanks all.
Tenforeplay
Well-Known Member
You could stack them as long as everything is captured by the oem spacer. I think that is the issue. Just a wag. And, the oem spring has different size each end. The small end is 2.25 but the larger is 2.4ish so going with the 2.5” spring allows it to fit the larger ES adjuster end and the fabbed spacer is at the other end. Don’t think the 2.25 will fit over the adjuster end. Again, just a wag. And we are talking ES?
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Doc_speeder
New Member
Ok, that makes sense thanks, and yes we are talking about the ES model.
Although maybe somebody that has the old direct fit RT spring could chime in. I'm fairly certain the id was 56.5mm, and it seemed to fit very well, although it seemed a little bit too long at 8.75" (222 mm) and did result in high initial preload which in my mind is not really desireable. I think that's why some of the guys that went that route used a spring which was only about 10% stiffer than stock. The extra preload raised the sag to the right level even though the spring wasn't really that much stiffer, and it makes sense that the guys that went with the 8" spring usually chose something at least 20% stiffer than stock because with the custom spacer the initial preload is less than with the longer spring.
My take on it is that if you can keep the initial preload close to the stock amount then the stronger spring will ramp up quicker through the travel, which should result in better control and better sag values while retaining a fairly plush ride on the road.
An 8.25" spring would be perfect but it doesn't seem like that exists. I will likely end up going with the tried and proven method of the 2.5"id 8" spring with a custom spacer, but I'd RATHER use a spring that can go in directly and not need the custom spacer if that makes sense.
Sorry I'm late to the party, I only got my new ST about a year ago so I'm a noob with these bikes.
bigbruce
Member
So where do we buy a stiffer spring and collars?