Manual CCT and wow what a difference.

Purificator81

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Damn, 3 times the price of the generic one on ebay...will need to debate it with my trusted mechanic or at lessr get some discount from groves....
 

snakebitten

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Excellent research!

Yea, it cost more than the generic. But why does that matter that much?
It cost more than a snickers bar too? :)

What I'm really saying is it cost how much a typical cam chain tensioner that came in our bikes cost.
Sometimes the job doesn't go to the cheapest bidder!
 

limey

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Jaxson do you have a part # or is that off the R1.

Thanks.
 

~TABASCO~

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It's the Graves R1 unit. I think 09-14'.... We can offer them to anyone interested.
 

OldRider

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Most any dealer can order the PSR unit from Parts Unlimited for $55 I haven't compared the two, but the PSR CCT seems to be good quality. See post #17 above for a picture.
 

Purificator81

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Went with APE one...showed the photos of the two (APE and GRAVES) to the mechanic and he told me just get me the APE it does the work very well and he installed them so many times with zero issues...it is cheaper and APE is renowned so I can't go wrong, I will install it with the oil change so that at each 5000km I check it with the oil change...

thanks a lot guys, this forum is a gem!
 

Mark R.

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After reading some other threads that involve ACCT failures, I bit the bullet and ordered the Graves unit, along with the two necessary gaskets. I'm just going to get it over with before I have any issues, and never have to worry about a failed tensioner again.
 

Mark R.

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carrot said:
Then you can start worrying about if it's adjusted right
They are very easy to adjust. Manual cam chain tensioners are pretty common on many singles and race bikes. I have them on my DR 650 and DRZ 400. They work just fine.
 

longride

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carrot said:
good to know so how do you adjust a cct
It's a snap to adjust. Just turn the motor and increase pressure until you 'feel' the cct vibrating. Back it off until you can't 'feel' it and tighten it down. Check at every oil change and you are golden. Easy. simple and no worries. If you hear a whine or feel the vibration at the cct it is too tight.
 

Purificator81

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it is indeed. my mechanic said that the MCCT has the advantage to be predictable, you start hearing noise you can still run it to go back home...but with the hydraulic CCT, if you start hearing the noise, it is extremely unpredictable and things could go wrong after 10 miles or 4000 miles...
 

Trek

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~TABASCO~ said:
Ive changed many customer CCT to the 2014 unit.. So swapping was no issue. There are several methods of keeping an eye on the chain but I run the mark on K and keep tension on the chain as I change each unit... No issue...
Jaxon,
How do you keep tension on the cam chain?
Do you need to remove the valve cover?
Thanks,
Trek
 

~TABASCO~

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Trek said:
Jaxon,
How do you keep tension on the cam chain?
Do you need to remove the valve cover?
Thanks,
Trek
With the manual it screws in until there is enough tension on the CC. Then just use your fingers or screwdriver. Valve cover, no.... Just the clutch side cover.
 

big dave

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RonH said:
There has been about 2 reports of cam time jumping while replacing the tensioner out of all that have done it, and those 2 to me seemed like it was a fabricated tale. Guys that have like 10 postings here, and acted like, my timing jumped a few teeth and I took the hour to fix, and you should not of attempted this feat without major disassembly.. Seems to me if I took the tensioner off and the timing jumped I'd be more or less in a panic, but not these guys, they had timing jump, removed 6hrs worth of stuff, reset everything and all was well. Bullsheet. I believe they were lies. Remove the tensioner, replace the tensioner. Job done.
I don't believe other contributors are not telling the truth.

Camchain jumping when the tension is released is a common problem on TDM900s if the camshafts are not aligned properly when removing the original tensioner.

BD
 

Trek

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~TABASCO~ said:
With the manual it screws in until there is enough tension on the CC. Then just use your fingers or screwdriver. Valve cover, no.... Just the clutch side cover.
Jaxon,
My question should have been; how do you keep tension on the chain during the changeover?

Thanks
 

~TABASCO~

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Trek said:
Jaxon,
My question should have been; how do you keep tension on the chain during the changeover?

Thanks

The first six or eight I pulled it tight with a zip-tie. Now I just pull the chain tight with my fingers or keep tension on it with a flat blade screw driver... Use my right hand for the chain, and at the same time my left to remove and reinstall the new unit..



Then I rinse the whole thing out with kerosene, make sure everything works right..... :D Old inside joke...
 

snakebitten

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Yep, Kerosene is probably what the guys are skipping. Risky business.

You're the man, Jaxon!
 
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