"Lash"

[~TABASCO~]

Is it worth replacing the cush drive ?

Yes, when there begins to get too much slop.......... the cost of those rubber bits are really expensive so most people never to change them out to 'new'..... The typically will last (approximately) 100K miles before I see the need to actually change them................


If the price for those parts was WAY cheeper, I would throw a new set in every few years.... But they are pretty high $$.......

 

[Boris]

Yes, when there begins to get too much slop.......... the cost of those rubber bits are really expensive so most people never to change them out to 'new'..... The typically will last (approximately) 100K miles before I see the need to actually change them................


If the price for those parts was WAY cheeper, I would throw a new set in every few years.... But they are pretty high $$.......

£129.84 for a new complete Cush drive in the UK, roughly $163 usd. Actually sold in 6 separate sections.

 

[fac191]

£129.84 for a new complete Cush drive in the UK, roughly $163 usd. Actually sold in 6 separate sections.

Wow !

 

[pooh and xtine]

If the cush drive rubbers are a bit loose shove cut pieces of old inner tube down the sides to pack them out.

 

[fac191]

Used to do that on my 660 Tenere. Good tip.

 

[Axel]

My 2012 did the same thing yours is doing. What mine did though at any time i tried to hold a steady speed with a light throttle it stumbled so bad it shook the drive line. Speed didnt matter and gear didnt matter. The lower the gear the worse it was. Again only at very light throttle. Light throttle at 55 you could still feel mine doing that. I got a new DR 650 that did the same thing. It was easy to fix though it has a carb. On the super T i opened both bleed screws 1 3/4 turns and this helped a lot. Most on the forum just go 3/4 turns out though. Then i got a booster plug that fools the ecu on air temperature. It pulls sm

Chains are way 'lashier'. I was initially going to say gear selection but being a 2012 you may have something playing up. How many miles on the bike?

ooth and will easily pull me through parking lots or through down town at any speed. I have been running this set up for years and it will pull 20 mph in 4th easy. Of course it has been said a ecu flash will fix that too. Just my experiance. More info to think about. It did help mine tremendously.

My 2012 did the same thing yours is doing. What mine did though at any time i tried to hold a steady speed with a light throttle it stumbled so bad it shook the drive line. Speed didnt matter and gear didnt matter. The lower the gear the worse it was. Again only at very light throttle. Light throttle at 55 you could still feel mine doing that. I got a new DR 650 that did the same thing. It was easy to fix though it has a carb. On the super T i opened both bleed screws 1 3/4 turns and this helped a lot. Most on the forum just go 3/4 turns out though. Then i got a booster plug that fools the ecu on air temperature. It pulls smooth and will easily pull me through parking lots or through down town at any speed. I have been running this set up for years and it will pull 20 mph in 4th easy. Of course it has been said a ecu flash will fix that too. Just my experiance. More info to think about. It did help mine tremendously.

Your description is more precise than mine. Yes, "light throttle" is where the problem is. Also, it seems to be getting worse, so bad that I was beginning to think "trade." Your suggestions may have saved me some money...and grief! I want my bike to run like yours!
Your comment also points to the problem as being fuel/air and/or timing instead of where I was going. I was thinking that the blame was in drivetrain. This is all good news.
I'll try the adjustments that you made to your's and then get back to this thread.
Thanks to all for weighing in. This is my maiden venture with any forum. I'm slowly getting the hang of it.
It's great!

 

[Axel]

If the cush drive rubbers are a bit loose shove cut pieces of old inner tube down the sides to pack them out.

Makes good sense.

 

[Axel]

My 2012 did the same thing yours is doing. What mine did though at any time i tried to hold a steady speed with a light throttle it stumbled so bad it shook the drive line. Speed didnt matter and gear didnt matter. The lower the gear the worse it was. Again only at very light throttle. Light throttle at 55 you could still feel mine doing that. I got a new DR 650 that did the same thing. It was easy to fix though it has a carb. On the super T i opened both bleed screws 1 3/4 turns and this helped a lot. Most on the forum just go 3/4 turns out though. Then i got a booster plug that fools the ecu on air temperature. It pulls smooth and will easily pull me through parking lots or through down town at any speed. I have been running this set up for years and it will pull 20 mph in 4th easy. Of course it has been said a ecu flash will fix that too. Just my experiance. More info to think about. It did help mine tremendously.

Cyclemike 4, a couple questions. Can you describe for me where are the bleed screws are? And, can you--or anyone--enlighten me about booster plugs?
Thanks

This has virtually everything to do with being in 5th or 6th gear and doing 20 Mph............... You have no issue.... The bike has no issue...... Try using 2nd gear doing 20Mph..... If you have this noise or any type of chatter using the correct gear "you then might" have an issue...... What you are hearing is 1-2-3 doing there job for a normal smooth job...........

These engines dont like to be bogged down or putt-putt-putt around town......... These valve will cake up if that is someones style of riding....

Down shift, get the RPM's pumped up and get those revs, revving....... It revs to 8K with a rev limiter..... it's good to see 6-7-8K EVERY RIDE ! ! ! ! ! ! (for the motor health)

Good luck !


View attachment 102369

I take your point, Tabasco. I agree that the engine likes to be revved. 20 mph in 5 or 6 gear is stupid. But, I ask, shouldn't that same engine run smoothly, with 1200 cc's, at 2k rpm in 3ŕd gear, similar to my old(er) Ducati and Beemer GS? Just askin'.

 

[pooh and xtine]

The 90 degree v-twin and boxer engines are inherently better balanced than a parallel twin with counterbalancers, so the ST won’t be quite as smooth at low revs.

 

[Jlq1969]

Cyclemike 4, a couple questions. Can you describe for me where are the bleed screws are? And, can you--or anyone--enlighten me about booster plugs?
Thanks

I take your point, Tabasco. I agree that the engine likes to be revved. 20 mph in 5 or 6 gear is stupid. But, I ask, shouldn't that same engine run smoothly, with 1200 cc's, at 2k rpm in 3ŕd gear, similar to my old(er) Ducati and Beemer GS? Just askin'.

Probably he didn't mean "bleeding"...he must be referring to the TB "synchronization" screws......
If you don't want carbon in the valves and pistons... and you don't want to exert stress on the clutch discs and springs... better not start from so low, in a high gear... even though the engine responds well from so low... it's not what better

 

[Axel]

The 90 degree v-twin and boxer engines are inherently better balanced than a parallel twin with counterbalancers, so the ST won’t be quite as smooth at low revs.

Good point. I thought the 90 degree Duc engine looked kinda odd, but loved the smoothness...hmm, I guess I could say the same thing about the boxer.

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[cyclemike4]

Cyclemike 4, a couple questions. Can you describe for me where are the bleed screws are? And, can you--or anyone--enlighten me about booster plugs?
Thanks

I take your point, Tabasco. I agree that the engine likes to be revved. 20 mph in 5 or 6 gear is stupid. But, I ask, shouldn't that same engine run smoothly, with 1200 cc's, at 2k rpm in 3ŕd gear, similar to my old(er) Ducati and Beemer GS? Just askin'.

Hello Axel. I was using a slang term on the bleed screws. It isn't local to here but I have heard them referred to as bleed screws for years. Yes it is the screws that are used to balance the air flow through the throttle bodies at low throttle settings or at idle. In fact they are bleeding air around the throttle plates to balance them out the same. As my bike came from the factory both were bottomed out. no air getting past either. Of course all companies are trying to get past EPA standards and such in other countries so they put as little air and fuel through them as they can. I am gathering from this forum that not all Super T's are affected as bad as mine was but there just was not enough air so there for not enough fuel to run the bike at very light throttle settings. By opening the sync screws or (bleed screws) it helped a huge amount. Also the booster plug is a device I bought that plugs into the air temperature sensor and makes the ecu think the air is much colder than it is so it adds just a touch more fuel to the system. Both things helped tremendously in the drivability of the bike. Of course 20 mph in 4th gear is not the best way to ride the bike and it will eventually chatter there but first, second or even third gear through parking lots or slow through town is so nice now. It is great once the bike is rolling. My bike still has some issues with taking off and stopping but once rolling it is good.

 

[Axel]

Thanks again, Cyclemike. It seems to me that we've had the same issues, and you found a solution. Probably like many in the forum, my riding varies according to situation, so spinning it up in the country or freeway might be followed by easing through a campground. I want my ride to do both. Like yours.

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[Axel]

I just ordered my Booster Plug, and when I saw the logo, I realized, "heck yes! I know what these are...I had one on my '04 BMW RT!" It worked great! So great that I forgot about it, lasting me for nearly 100k miles. Again, THANKS for the assist.

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