Is burning oil in the Tenere a known issue?

sportsguy

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We changed the oil for the first time as suggested in the manual. Added the prescribed amount, as outlined in the owner's manual.

For me, the site glass showed oil at the appropriate level (just a hair above the low mark on the engine case/window).

I rode the bike after that for maybe 1500 miles in about 3 weeks, most of which happened within a 5 day period. (I was at a rally for 5 days, then yesterday went out for a country ride for 5 hours).

This morning, on my way to work, my low oil light came on (solid). I was only a 1/2 mile from home, so I did a U-turn and proceeded home. Within seconds of straightening up from the U-turn lean, the light went out. This would seem to indicate the "low oil" condition is right on the edge of the sensor's ability to detect.

Now, background:

1 - yesterday's ride say a lot of high speed, high rev riding.
2 - yesterday's ride also say about 90 minutes of highway riding at around 75/80 mph
3 - I did hit the rev limiter once while passing a car in a situation that required I pay close attention to the rode ahead, so eye son road = not watching the tach - incidentally, it's a pretty gentle cut-in... ;) I immediately shifted.
4 - the bike has been down once (I'm sure you've seen my wipe out video) - kill switch was hit within 5 - 10 seconds of stopping.
5 - breakin was accomplished according to Yamaha's recommendations in the owner's manual
6 - oil was full dino for that first chance - oil was from the dealer, in the spec noted by Yamaha - not Yamalube, but same viscosity, and non-synthetic.
7 - if you've seen my videos, you know the fun I had running up and down a closed circuit a couple weeks ago - low-moderate speeds, moderate to high revs held between turns that day

Now, I'm not immediately disposed to saying "the engine is burning oil!"...well, the fact is they all do to a degree.

The exhaust is clear, the light came on, then went out when I executed a turn. This makes me think the actual oil level is almost close to normal, if the sensor only say low oil during a prior turn.

But, I did want input from the peanut gallery. I'll have to swing by the dealer tomorrow (closed Mondays) and grab some oil to top it up with. Right now the bike is on the center stand taking a day to drain the oil back down. :)
 

Rasher

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My guess would be you did not get a good reading when doing the change.

Did 3500 miles on my bike recently with about 1,000 miles on motorways at sustained 80-90mph, plus the odd blast here and there, it did take about 400ml to bring it back to the top again, but 1L every 10k is pretty decent IMO
 

roy

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Mine used half a quart on a 4,226 miles 8 day mile muncher trip. A lot of off road in dusty conditions, a lot of high speed interstate running in 100+ degree temps. I am not the least concerned and chalk that up as normal consumption considering the way it was run during those 4,226 miles. BTW it has never used any measurable oil before that, 24k miles on the clock and no leaks.
 

True Grip

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Sportsguy i've done two trips out west on my bike. High speed interstate for long days like Roy. Then days of climbing passes or poking backroads. Our crankcases have a vent tube that goes to the airbox, as pressure builds oil vapor goes to the air box and most is then burned off. Both trips on returning home i found small amount of oil in airbox. I think thats where our oil goes and i'm alright with that. I'm sure not gonna slow down
 

markjenn

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These bikes are very well known for having a conservative low-oil warning light (typically announcing its presence by coming on momentarily a few minutes after starting and then going out shortly thereafter.... while still showing oil on the sight glass) and having considerable variability in sight glass readings, especially after an oil change. My bet is that you got caught in the confluence of having the bike slightly underfilled after your oil change, a modest amount of consumption with high-speed running, and a very conservative sensor.

I'd top it off with a few hundred ml and ride on. Doubtful you have a problem.

The sight glass does work better if you adapt a fairly consistent strategy of checking it - I check after the engine is fully up to temp after riding and let it drain down on the side-stand for at least five minutes or so, then check on the centerstand. With this process, I get fairly consistent results.

To answer your original question, I don't think S10's, in general, have a oil-burning issue. But as you say, all engines burn oil, and some will burn more than others.

- Mark
 

sportsguy

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markjenn said:
These bikes are very well known for having a conservative low-oil warning light (typically announcing its presence by coming on momentarily a few minutes after starting and then going out shortly thereafter.... while still showing oil on the sight glass) and having considerable variability in sight glass readings, especially after an oil change. My bet is that you got caught in the confluence of having the bike slightly underfilled after your oil change, a modest amount of consumption with high-speed running, and a very conservative sensor.

I'd top it off with a few hundred ml and ride on. Doubtful you have a problem.
Thanks guys - pretty much exactly where my head is at...and Mark's description is EXACTLY what I was thinking.

OK, I'm going to call Yamaha in Japan later today and have a chat with them about some things then...

1 - this oil glass situation
2 - "reserve" in our gas tanks...oh wait, you mean THAT OTHER full gallon of gas sitting around still unused...
3 - the fact I must stop to refuel and that this bike burns gas is unconscionable to me - why interrupt the fun with fuel stops?!
4 - backordered parts - wtf? Might be there way to sell more bikes? (Oh, you want parts for your '12 Tenere, we backordered now...suggest you buy a '13 for parts... :) )
5 - cruise control - I want to talk with the Product Manager who veto'd THAT gem and understand why he did it.
6 - handlebar sweep angles - they clearly need to update their "dummies" for ergonomic testing.
7 - marketing is way off - their target demographic is NOT the tall skinny Italian guy with a ciggy in his mouth and a cell phone in his left hand riding a Vespa...

Fear not, however, as a dedicated member of this community, I shall strive for balance and provide plenty of positive feedback:

1 - WOW! this bike is amazing
2 - HOLY CRAP! This bike can do everything.
3 - Thank you for the ride by wire controls. :)
4 - This bike makes even dunderheads (technical 'Merican term for dolt) look like drift kings!
5 - the colors are right some pretty - thanks. :)

...and thanks to you all for the feedback, guidance and support. :)

duane
 

HoebSTer

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I would chalk it up to odd occurance. Since I am the one who changed his oil, it is the exact same way I change my oil and add three quarts plus a little bit past half of the 4th bottle. Meaning since it takes 3.59 qts with filter change, by showing a little less than half left in the quart is pretty darn close to 3.59. The only time my oil light has come on is when using 20w50 synthetic and the temps are below 40 degrees. It takes the bike a while longer to warm up, but usually by the time I get to the hwy, it is fine.
Duane, you may want to see the clear plug on the LS lower part of the air box to see if it is filled with oil. If it is, then pull it off, and let the oil in the airbox drain. I haven't had that much on my bike, but recently checking the air box on my dads bike in michigan, his had a generous amount of oil in his air box. His bike has 28k miles on it, and has seen alot of long distance hwy miles from the previous owner.
I wouldn't add much more than an ounce or two if needed.

Jeff
 

sportsguy

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HoebSTer said:
I would chalk it up to odd occurance. Since I am the one who changed his oil, it is the exact same way I change my oil and add three quarts plus a little bit past half of the 4th bottle. Meaning since it takes 3.59 qts with filter change, by showing a little less than half left in the quart is pretty darn close to 3.59. The only time my oil light has come on is when using 20w50 synthetic and the temps are below 40 degrees. It takes the bike a while longer to warm up, but usually by the time I get to the hwy, it is fine.
Duane, you may want to see the clear plug on the LS lower part of the air box to see if it is filled with oil. If it is, then pull it off, and let the oil in the airbox drain. I haven't had that much on my bike, but recently checking the air box on my dads bike in michigan, his had a generous amount of oil in his air box. His bike has 28k miles on it, and has seen alot of long distance hwy miles from the previous owner.
I wouldn't add much more than an ounce or two if needed.

Jeff
I'll check the airbox, but need to clarify something here... ;)

Jeff STARTED the oil change...and instructed me on HOW to calculate the oil to fill the engine with, but I alone translated his suggestions into the amount of oil that went into my engine. I tend to be a detail oriented person, so if my mind locks on "use this bottle until it reaches the 700 ml mark/put in 300 mls from this bottle), then I tend to work to that exact measure...which means if I miscalculate or misunderstand something along the way, I can end up slightly off the mark. ;)

This wasn't a you thing by any stretch Jeff. If I thought it were I'd have started the post with "HoebSTer sucks...at oil changes"... ;)

So, as soon as I90 opens tomorrow, I'll snag a bottle of bubbly from them to top up this incredible bike and ride like there is no end to gas looming in our lifetimes. :)
 

Brick

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I chime in here as my Super T had 45,753 miles and it started doing the same thing yours did about 20,000 miles ago. Now it repeatedly "uses" about 1/2 quart of oil between oil changes. I change the oil between 6,000 to 8,000 miles and a use Amsoil 10W40 Synthetic oil.
I have no problem with this as I love to twist the throttle and hear this thing "honk". The Super T is the most fun bike I've ever owned in my 44 years of riding.




Brick
 

rem

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sportsguy said:
We changed the oil for the first time as suggested in the manual. Added the prescribed amount, as outlined in the owner's manual.

Not trying to be a wise guy, sportsguy, but be sure you put in the correct amount to start with. It's easy to get confused sometimes. I even use a 100 ml graduated cylinder for anything less than an entire litre. At least it's not a KLR ::025:: R
 

sportsguy

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rem said:
Not trying to be a wise guy, sportsguy, but be sure you put in the correct amount to start with. It's easy to get confused sometimes. I even use a 100 ml graduated cylinder for anything less than an entire litre. At least it's not a KLR ::025:: R
EXACTLY the point I was trying to make when replying to HoebSTer. ;) The variance could very well be due to a mistake on my part eyeballing something. ;)
 

creggur

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I've seen these oil-window confusion threads quite a bit, and here's what I do, and have never had a problem:

Bike on center stand - drain oil.
When it gets down to just dripping every second or two I reinstall the drain plugs.
Remove and replace oil filter. I don't pre-load the new oil filter, just slap it on there.
Pour in three quarts and about 20 ounces of oil (as measured by the oil bottle I'm pouring from).

When I check my oil level it's 10 minutes after a ride, or I let the bike warm through one fan cycle and wait the prescribed 10 minutes before checking the level. It has consistently been just below the top line in the sight glass.

The only time it wasn't was during the break-in where the oil level never got below the top of the sight glass window and after the 600 mile service (performed by the dealer). Never had an issue since 2000 miles when I started doing my own oil changes...

I've never seen the low oil light (even after oil changes) and the only time I've had any strange noise from the engine (other than the strange noises it makes naturally) was Yesterday for about a second when I fired her up, but the bike had been sitting for over two weeks...
 

avc8130

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Drain the oil on the sidestand, since the drain bolts are actually angled that way from Yamaha.

ac
 

RsZk

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Yup, drain on side stand. Fill on center stand. I picked up a graduated beaker from my local pharmacist as they can get quite accurate ones +-50 mils. My dealer actually filled it up too much. No bubble in the site glass.
 

sportsguy

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creggur said:
I've seen these oil-window confusion threads quite a bit, and here's what I do, and have never had a problem:

Bike on center stand - drain oil.
When it gets down to just dripping every second or two I reinstall the drain plugs.
Remove and replace oil filter. I don't pre-load the new oil filter, just slap it on there.
Pour in three quarts and about 20 ounces of oil (as measured by the oil bottle I'm pouring from).

When I check my oil level it's 10 minutes after a ride, or I let the bike warm through one fan cycle and wait the prescribed 10 minutes before checking the level. It has consistently been just below the top line in the sight glass.

The only time it wasn't was during the break-in where the oil level never got below the top of the sight glass window and after the 600 mile service (performed by the dealer). Never had an issue since 2000 miles when I started doing my own oil changes...

I've never seen the low oil light (even after oil changes) and the only time I've had any strange noise from the engine (other than the strange noises it makes naturally) was Yesterday for about a second when I fired her up, but the bike had been sitting for over two weeks...
...and not to put too fine a point on this, but...ah...

This is NOT a thread about oil in the siteglass - it's about oil burning and the low oil indicator light. I'm well aware of the variances and history the site glass enjoys - its urban legend at this point.

I drain oil on the sidestand as the bike is designed for that to drain as much of the used oil as possible, then I refill on the center stand. I suspect I'll get a graduated beaker, too, as it's a much simpler way to be accurate when filling.

Many thanks to EVERYONE for the input and feedback. Love this community. :)

duane
 

avc8130

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I do believe the bikes might "consume" some oil.

When Swampy and I rode to Texas, the long high speed runs on the highway fully loaded were making him go through oil at an alarming rate. We stopped twice to top up since the oil light came on and stayed on.

I firmly believe it is the crankcase breather that is burning the oil, not a REAL issue.

ac
 

cosmic

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Recently I did the 20tkm service and came to a more or less accurate conclusion that my beloved s10 burned 500ml of Yamalube 10-40 fully synthetic in 10tkm. I can live with that.

©
 

CDMartin884

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My 6K trip out West, the bike consumed about 30cc's of oil. Florida to Colorado/Utah, lots of highway slabs
 

RsZk

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After Re-reading your post sportsguy, I believe that maybe your bike isn't quite broken in yet along with having the oil level on the low end and also high revving. I remember reading a post I think in the mega thread in ADV that high rpm's (over 6000 sustained) will burn some oil. I know that in my recent trip I didn't burn any perceived oil and it had a mix of high altitudes, high rpm and near red line acceleration. I did break it in the Motoman way though and did an initial oil change at 100km, then another at 1000km. I switched over to synthetic Yamalube at 3000km before my 4650km trip.
 

sportsguy

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Well, it seems we must pay a tax for our love... :)

Fine, fine, so it shall be. I shall pay more attention to my Gemma. No problem there. :)

Gotta snag some dino fluid and a measuring tool tomorrow for sure. :)
 
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