scott123007 said:
I think you're right and not missing anything. If the new CCT fully retracted was enough to keep the chain from jumping teeth, there would never have been the failures people have had from bad tensioners. The bolt as a holder is no different than a zip tie, because it still has to be removed to set the tensioner. I explained the procedure a few post back why OEM to OEM was not a good idea without removing the valve cover. That is not to say it can't be done because I did it with just the clutch cover removed and a zip tie around the chain and chain guide and then releasing it before setting the tensioner. Apparently RonH did it without holding anything and he was successful. That tells me that there IS a point of cam rotation that is " friendly" to CCT removal BUT there is no way of knowing what that is without removing the valve cover. RonH, myself, and anyone else that have done it without removing the valve cover and tying the chain to the cam sprockets, have just been on the lucky end of a crap shoot.
I hear you with these comments.
Let me offer this, another different possible solution no one has mentioned yet.
Again, I have only the OEM to OEM change viewpoint, in view.
So, the point is to contain the timing chain from jumping cog teeth during the changeover. I pose that, if the chain can be contained in a manner that does not allow for that to occur, we would have a "win".
How about this? Is there room within the chain teeth, at a point that can be accessed with just the clutch cover removed, where a zip tie can be inserted *in / through the teeth* and across the gap (chain going up .vs chain going down) such that the zip can be pulled tight and not expect it to slip?
That is, somewhere accessible, put a zip across the gap in the chain, and put the zip through the teeth of the chain. Then, pull tight and capture the chain across the cogs above. Voila! You no longer care about the slack below it (as long as the chain does not jump the crank cog either). Have as much chain slack as you want below the point where the chain is captured (but, don't jump the crank cog!)
R+R the OEM tensioner, smack the guide, whatever.
Once done, release the captured chain.
I understand this is similar to what has been already suggested, but there's a subtle difference: Hold the chain tight around the upper cogs. Concentrate on that feature.
What do you think?