How I swapped my CCT

[limey]

Well, there you go. If KZRon did it without holding anything, it looks like there is a happy spot for the cams that removal of the tensioner doesn't affect the chain tension whether they are tied or not. The problem is, unless someone has the valve cover off and rotates the crank until that spot is found, we will never know exactly where it is, Furthermore, even if that spot is recorded, it still will only be right half the time, and there is no way to know which half that is, without removing the valve cover. LOL

@ WJBertrand
As far as holding the chain behind the guide, that may be possible, but my guess is you would be hard pressed to get something between the chain and guide with the tensioner pressing everything together. If you can do it that way though, yes, that would be a failsafe way to do it.

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[Don in Lodi]

It’s not worth taking a chance for the sake of an extra few mins work. This is what I used.

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That's cool. A friend found that a 3/8 drive 19mm socket fits in there perfect.

 

[scott123007]

It’s not worth taking a chance for the sake of an extra few mins work. This is what I used.

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Fail!! ... NOT a metric nut and bolt ::025:: ::025:: ::025:: ::025:: ::025::

Hey Limey, what's happenin'? Sorry I couldn't make it to Romney this year. Anyone try to shoot at you and Pat this year? LOL

 

[RonH]

Of course the wedge is a great idea, but only if you are installing a manual tensioner. It won't serve any purpose if replacing with the factory tensioner and neither will any form of ziptie down under the clutch cover. Reason being the ziptie or wedge must be removed to release the tensioner.

 

[Don in Lodi]

Of course the wedge is a great idea, but only if you are installing a manual tensioner. It won't serve any purpose if replacing with the factory tensioner and neither will any form of ziptie down under the clutch cover. Reason being the ziptie or wedge must be removed to release the tensioner.

The wedge will keep the cams from jumping while you've got the tensioner out. When you've got the new tensioner in you can remove the wedge, the cocked tensioner should protrude far enough to keep the chain on the cams till you trigger the tensioner.

 

[RonH]

Good point. Hope that is the case. It can't hurt.

 

[mebgardner]

The wedge will keep the cams from jumping while you've got the tensioner out. When you've got the new tensioner in you can remove the wedge, the cocked tensioner should protrude far enough to keep the chain on the cams till you trigger the tensioner.

Is this true? No offense, but I'm not seeing it yet.

I have just the OEM tensioner "old OEM to new OEM", same variety, in view with this ongoing question.

It's this statement I'm questioning: "...the cocked tensioner should protrude far enough to keep the chain on the cams till you trigger the tensioner."

So, let's say the wedge is in place before removing the old OEM tensioner. Then, the old OEM tensioner is removed. The new OEM tensioner is prepared. It has it's plunger completely depressed, awaiting insertion. The new tensioner is inserted, and bolted in place, but not released. *The wedge is removed*. The guide is struck to trigger the new OEM tensioner...

At that point, I think the chain can flop around.

What am I missing here?

 

[scott123007]

At that point, I think the chain can flop around.

What am I missing here?

I think you're right and not missing anything. If the new CCT fully retracted was enough to keep the chain from jumping teeth, there would never have been the failures people have had from bad tensioners. The bolt as a holder is no different than a zip tie, because it still has to be removed to set the tensioner. I explained the procedure a few post back why OEM to OEM was not a good idea without removing the valve cover. That is not to say it can't be done because I did it with just the clutch cover removed and a zip tie around the chain and chain guide and then releasing it before setting the tensioner. Apparently RonH did it without holding anything and he was successful. That tells me that there IS a point of cam rotation that is " friendly" to CCT removal BUT there is no way of knowing what that is without removing the valve cover. RonH, myself, and anyone else that have done it without removing the valve cover and tying the chain to the cam sprockets, have just been on the lucky end of a crap shoot.

 

[mebgardner]

I think you're right and not missing anything. If the new CCT fully retracted was enough to keep the chain from jumping teeth, there would never have been the failures people have had from bad tensioners. The bolt as a holder is no different than a zip tie, because it still has to be removed to set the tensioner. I explained the procedure a few post back why OEM to OEM was not a good idea without removing the valve cover. That is not to say it can't be done because I did it with just the clutch cover removed and a zip tie around the chain and chain guide and then releasing it before setting the tensioner. Apparently RonH did it without holding anything and he was successful. That tells me that there IS a point of cam rotation that is " friendly" to CCT removal BUT there is no way of knowing what that is without removing the valve cover. RonH, myself, and anyone else that have done it without removing the valve cover and tying the chain to the cam sprockets, have just been on the lucky end of a crap shoot.

I hear you with these comments.

Let me offer this, another different possible solution no one has mentioned yet.

Again, I have only the OEM to OEM change viewpoint, in view.

So, the point is to contain the timing chain from jumping cog teeth during the changeover. I pose that, if the chain can be contained in a manner that does not allow for that to occur, we would have a "win".

How about this? Is there room within the chain teeth, at a point that can be accessed with just the clutch cover removed, where a zip tie can be inserted *in / through the teeth* and across the gap (chain going up .vs chain going down) such that the zip can be pulled tight and not expect it to slip?

That is, somewhere accessible, put a zip across the gap in the chain, and put the zip through the teeth of the chain. Then, pull tight and capture the chain across the cogs above. Voila! You no longer care about the slack below it (as long as the chain does not jump the crank cog either). Have as much chain slack as you want below the point where the chain is captured (but, don't jump the crank cog!)

R+R the OEM tensioner, smack the guide, whatever.

Once done, release the captured chain.

I understand this is similar to what has been already suggested, but there's a subtle difference: Hold the chain tight around the upper cogs. Concentrate on that feature.

What do you think?