Have you had the hard start problem?

[RidgeRunner]

You can easily, (and cheaply), install an ABS off switch. It does require a key cycle to turn it back on though. That said, most people find that the ABS is very, very good off road. This generation of ABS is much, much better than anything before it. I get the lock the rear wheel for a tighter turn off road, but you also need to remember just how big and heavy this bike is. That much momentum doesn't always react the same way a 350 lb bike does.

My suspicion is that if you're riding at the level that requires a locked wheel to make the turn, you're probably over riding the trail for this big a bike. Does that make sense?

More wanting to lock the rear wheel for emergencies than anything else. A tree, a boulder, or some such thing that I DIDN'T see than for any other reason. It happens. And sometimes locking the rear wheel and possibly even laying down the bike is the best choice.

 

[Dallara]

More wanting to lock the rear wheel for emergencies than anything else. A tree, a boulder, or some such thing that I DIDN'T see than for any other reason. It happens. And sometimes locking the rear wheel and possibly even laying down the bike is the best choice.

Oh, no... Here we go... ::017::




Dallara





~

 

[snakebitten]

Count to 10 please?

Come on. You gotta admit there is no way to know how she defies conventional wisdom.

Think back. When they were still on a boat somewhere in the Pacific, you didn't know either.

 

[EricV]

::017::

Biting my tongue...

Will come back tomorrow to see what's developed. ::013::

 

[GrahamD]

 

[creggur]

Man, if this were on the "other" forum it would've already blown up... I'm in to see what happens though.

 

[EricV]

More wanting to lock the rear wheel for emergencies than anything else. A tree, a boulder, or some such thing that I DIDN'T see than for any other reason. It happens. And sometimes locking the rear wheel and possibly even laying down the bike is the best choice.

Ok, it's a new day. ;D

@RR - The reason we are joking about this is the highlighted part I quoted above. In the dirt, there can be some good reasons to lock the wheels, but opinions will differ on when that is, and if it's a symptom of over riding the trail. I've heard lots of reasons, from building a mound in front of the front wheel to stop on a hill and being able to take your hands off the bars, to locking the rear wheel to slide it around corners, etc. I'm not really going to address that, it comes down to personal riding technique and choice.

Laying the bike down to avoid a crash is kind of like saying you're prefer to crash in order to not crash. You're still crashing. ??? I suppose you may argue that you're choosing what to crash into. Hopefully you only consider this technique in the dirt, and not on the street. On the street choosing to "lay it down" means you are giving up control. It's pretty much always better to ride the bike right up to the point where you aren't riding the bike. In other words, don't give up on saving it, always try and ride it out, never stop riding the bike. If you have enough control to "lay it down", then you have enough control to continue to ride the bike out of the situation. ::001::

Not trying to give you any grief, just explaining why some of us got out the popcorn to see how this would go. Sometimes it can blow up pretty good when someone is defending "laying it down" as a justified method of "avoiding a crash".

 

[autoteach]

We could also discuss coefficient's of friction for different materials. There is a reason they don't make tires from plastic, steel, and aluminum. In the case of a stop or a swerve, try the rubber.

 

[RidgeRunner]

Ok, it's a new day. ;D

@RR - The reason we are joking about this is the highlighted part I quoted above. In the dirt, there can be some good reasons to lock the wheels, but opinions will differ on when that is, and if it's a symptom of over riding the trail. I've heard lots of reasons, from building a mound in front of the front wheel to stop on a hill and being able to take your hands off the bars, to locking the rear wheel to slide it around corners, etc. I'm not really going to address that, it comes down to personal riding technique and choice.

Laying the bike down to avoid a crash is kind of like saying you're prefer to crash in order to not crash. You're still crashing. ??? I suppose you may argue that you're choosing what to crash into. Hopefully you only consider this technique in the dirt, and not on the street. On the street choosing to "lay it down" means you are giving up control. It's pretty much always better to ride the bike right up to the point where you aren't riding the bike. In other words, don't give up on saving it, always try and ride it out, never stop riding the bike. If you have enough control to "lay it down", then you have enough control to continue to ride the bike out of the situation. ::001::

Not trying to give you any grief, just explaining why some of us got out the popcorn to see how this would go. Sometimes it can blow up pretty good when someone is defending "laying it down" as a justified method of "avoiding a crash".

Thanks for enlightening me. And I can see your point. Makes sense.

 

[snakebitten]

Thanks for enlightening me. And I can see your point. Makes sense.

I already like you. You totally diffused the situation and now the theater emptied and we can all go home and be bored.

You might be too smart for this board.

Seriously, welcome. Hope you stay around. In fact, go put in for vacation in June and come ride the beast with about 75 other Teneres in Colorado. Gonna be a hoot connecting dots. (Faces, Nicks, bikes, .......)

 

[True Grip]

I already like you. You totally diffused the situation and now the theater emptied and we can all go home and be bored.

You might be too smart for this board.

Seriously, welcome. Hope you stay around. In fact, go put in for vacation in June and come ride the beast with about 75 other Teneres in Colorado. Gonna be a hoot connecting dots. (Faces, Nicks, bikes, .......)

::026:: A good example for us all. I second coming to Colorado if you can make it. It should be a blast

 

[RidgeRunner]

Colorado sounds great. Thanks for the invitations. I'm overdue for a nice long road trip and a vacation too. I won't pretend to know anything about these types of bikes. That's why I'm here. All I know is I want one.

 

[creggur]

To really appreciate how great a bike it is, you need only look at how many of us came from different styles of bikes, and believe the Tenere to benthe best we've ever owned. I came from a lifetime of sport and sport-tourers and couldn't be happier.

I hadn't ridden a bike off-road in 25 years (my CR125 at age 15) about the time I discovered street bikes. It's been a lot of fun being able to pop down a dirt road to see what's there, rail through some curves, and dispose of some major miles of slab in comfort...all on the same ride. What's better than that?

 

[CraigM]

EricV - thanks for the advice. I must admit i hadn't tried WOT or even thought of removing the fuse. As some of the other guys have mentioned I suspect the reason this is a fairly high % of people experiencing the problem is because I only really looked into it on the forum after it had happened. (So those who have not had a problem are blissfully unaware the thread even exists!!) So unfortunately it was too late for me but I will heed the advice if it does happen again.
I have the Optimate 4 which I think is similar but unfortunately have to run a lead down to my garage whenever I want to use it, so I tend to only use it as and when necessary. I was probably over eager and unaware of the potential hassle (having missed my bike for 2 1/2 months!!) and tried before the battery was back to full power as you say. Someone had said to me that the plugs can sometimes get wet with condensation after standing for a while, so this was the main thing that was going through my mind as the bike was very damp all over, just through moisture in the air. (lovely English weather!!) And as the plugs are due replacement in the 12k mile service...

GrahamD - I hear what you are saying but I feel Yamaha UK have actually been quite good to me so I don't think I'll send them the bill but I will make them aware!. They gave me the OEM top box, fog/spot lights and crash bars free of charge as I had complained at the time about a special offer that had started only 2 days after I got my bike without the 'free additions'. I felt rather frustrated at my bad timing (actually I think I pleaded with them, stating the long list of other Yamaha's I've owned in the past.... and they might just have tried to get rid of me). They are now also (hopefully) going to be replacing my header pipes and a couple of other bolts as they seem to have corroded quite a lot for a bike that is now only 2 years old with a warranty which is about to expire in a few weeks. The video was a good laugh though, thank you!! )

This does bring me to another point which might be worthy of another forum topic, but I thought I'd at least just make guys aware to hopefully avoid the same problems I have had.
I am rather meticulous about washing and cleaning the bike using loads of protective solutions like ACF50, WD40, Scottoil FS365 etc but was unaware that water was being trapped behind the rubber plugs in the side of the frame ( I think they are the rear engine mount bolts covers).
(See pics attached)



However none of this detracts from the magnificence of the bike. A friend of mine (a KTM 990 owner) regularly points out that the KTM is better at heavier/rougher off roading. But in my mind 1) I spend more time on the road than I do off road so its supreme abilities there win out right, and 2) If I really plan to do serious off road riding (which in the UK means water logged foot paths, snowy fields, knee deep in mud on bridle paths, obstacles through forests and the like) I would also not have bought a KTM I'd have bought 'an off road bike'! And as for BMW reliability... I'm not even going to start!

I love my S10 even more than I did my FJR before it. ::009::

::013::

 

[scott123007]

oops!

 

[JaimeV]

I had a hard start when I took the bike from the dealer.
I turn the key on and try to start before the bike did the complete check in. The mechanic said this is the reason for the hard start. I must wait to the check.
The bike started but with lot of smoke and petrol smell.

Just my two centavos

 

[SugarHighRider]

Coming from another Yamaha, I had noticed a small quark the bike had: If attempting to start the bike and it fails or you let off the button, it will then not want to catch when trying to start again. This could resemble the bike having a hard time starting.

But if you turned the key and kill switch off, then let it restart and cycle the fuel pump again before trying to start it, it should start up as if nothing happened. I experienced a hard start yesterday for the first time, and did as I used to with the other bike and the S10 started up right away.

So those of you having having the issue, might want to give this a try as well and see if it solves your problems! ::021::

 

[Xdriver]

Add me to list. Bike sat for about 18 days. On a tender. Plenty of fuel. Tried to start. No interruptions, nothing out of ordinary. Turns, but won't start. First bike I've had this problem with.

 

[EricV]

Add me to list. Bike sat for about 18 days. On a tender. Plenty of fuel. Tried to start. No interruptions, nothing out of ordinary. Turns, but won't start. First bike I've had this problem with.

Charge the battery and go WOT or 3/4 while cranking. Report back. Or do the same while jumped to the car/truck using normal precautions.

 

[Xdriver]

Mistakenly cross posted on the other thread regarding this, but I did get it going after about three hours and a pulled fuel injection fuse.

Then I stalled it and thought I was screwed. Fired right up.