I just installed Pro-Taper Adventure high bars. I don't think there's anything that hasn't been covered already in this thread, but to congeal it into one post for someone considering these bars:
Clutch and brake lines: I had longer lines from Jaxon to accommodate 2" Rox risers. The ADV high bars seem like they'll adjust anywhere in their range with them. I don't think I'd want to install the ADV high bars with stock brake and clutch lines.
Compared to 2" Rox risers with stock bars: mostly overlap: except for extreme placement of the Rox (like maybe risers rolled all the forward, then bars rolled forward in the risers), the Pro-Taper bars will be able to get there... or close enough. The height feels nearly identical to me.
Room for controls: The controls fit with the stock bar-end weights installed. The stock bar-end weights have about 1/2" long bar-diameter section on the inboard side before the enlarged "ball" on the outboard end starts (into which the handguards screw). I tried installing all the controls without the bar ends and it's somewhere between tight and impossible - the lever and mirror perches are so far inboard that they land on the first bend. Having that extra 1/2" on the bar-end weight to move everything outwards is the deal-maker. IOW, I'm not sure aftermarket bar-ends would allow all the controls to fit if they installed flush to the ends of the Pro-Taper bar.
Tapping stock bar ends: (as already stated) M16 x 1.5mm thread. I ordered one from Fastenal and picked it up next day for about $20. If I were able to find a hardened bolt in that size, I would've probably tried grinding a notch in it and using it as a tap. Tapping was not dramatic, altho there's clear a surprising amount of chips. Blowing compressed air thru the bars helps clear the chips. If anyone in central FL is planning on doing this, I'd be happy to share the tap.
The feel: very similar to the 2" Rox + stock bars. The sweep is a little different, I think an improvement, but they still have more sweep than dirt-bike bars. The greater bend length makes them feel noticeably more flexible than the stock arrangement. To me this feels worse, but maybe it makes them more crash-worthy or something.
Random notes: the switch housing on the left has two screws holding the housing together on the bar, but inside there's a clamp with two screws which need to backed off to get the housing off the stock bars. I think all the control housings (left switch, right kill switch, and throttle cable housing) have a plastic nub which engages holes drilled into the bars. This means you have get enough slack to get the nub backed out of the hole before the housings will come off. It also means the nubs need to be cut/ground/filed/sanded off before they can be installed on the new bars. The nubs will prevent the housings from seating on the new bars.
