::..Full Synth - when..? Dry Sump - does underfill or overfill matter..?..::

[hANNAbONE]

Hey Team...

So like when are y'all flippin' over to full Synth ?

How many miles ? (*I'm thinking around 6000 or 10,000*)

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If the mill is a dry sump - why all this bother about overfilled or underfilled oil capacity?

If I understand the dry sump premise - the guts of this mill isn't laying in an oil bath.

So an overfilled (*slightly overfilled*) oil "holder" would have no bearing on increased crankcase pressures nor foaming because of too much oil.

An underfilled "holder" would simply recycle the oil at a quicker rate than normal.

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Am I wrong on this...? If so, how..?

 

[~TABASCO~]

DONT want to start an oil debate.. Ive switched to Syn already... less than 1K

 

[nankoweap]

Hey Team...

So like when are y'all flippin' over to full Synth ?

How many miles ? (*I'm thinking around 6000 or 10,000*)

on my oil head beemers the rule of thumb was to keep running dino until it stopped burning oil. my RT stopped burning oil around 6k and the GS stopped around 2.5k. the japanese bikes i've owned have never burned oil and i switched to synthetic after the first full oil change interval. so on the tenere i'll switch to synth at 6k miles. well, as long as it's not burning oil.

 

[Firefight911]

I let the dealer do my first service and it got Yamalube 15W40 semi-synth. I don't expect there to be any concern with full synth right away.

All Ducati and all Triumph come with full synth right out of the crate. The technology is such nowadays that the old school thought of waiting is pretty much that, old school thinking. Now, that being said, it's entirely up to the end user and his/her comfort level and wallet size.

Not versed enough on this steeds oil system enough yet to make an educated opinion on the fluid levels in the system.

 

[rem]

Not being my any means an authority on mechanical stuff and the like, but being found guilty on occasion of having reasonable common sense (as opposed to uncommon sense), I can't see any excuse for modern gas burning engines to burn oil. Doesn't compute with me. If my bike burned oil right off, I'd take it back and beg for a replacement.


All the high end vehicles, like Jaguar and Testosterosas (poetic licence) come filled with synthetic oil right from the get go. I use synthetic. It is accepted for use under warranty by pretty well all manufacturers now. It's just more better, in my highly uneducated opinion. It's also pricey. R

 

[Firefight911]

Oh hell, why not.......

and then there's the age old debate of oil change interval. The book calls for every 4000 miles on oil and, heaven forbid, every 8000 miles for the filter. EEK!!!!!!

 

[colorider]

Pass the popcorn..................

 

[Firefight911]

Pass the popcorn..................

Butter with mine please!

These are always so fun to watch.....

 

[elizilla]

People ask me what kind of oil I think is best, I say "oil oil". The important thing is that you change it, not the brand or the synth or the dino content. OIL is the crucial thing. Get some. Change it. Go ride.

 

[rem]

Maybe you could use melted butter instead of oil. Anyone ever tried that ?? No environmental spills to worry about, you could make popcorn on the trail and just drain the pan on it, you could use lard in a pinch, and it's a nicer color. Someone give it a try and post back. R

 

[colorider]

People ask me what kind of oil I think is best, I say "oil oil". The important thing is that you change it, not the brand or the synth or the dino content. OIL is the crucial thing. Get some. Change it. Go ride.

Exactly!!!

 

[dcstrom]

Oh hell, why not.......

and then there's the age old debate of oil change interval. The book calls for every 4000 miles on oil and, heaven forbid, every 8000 miles for the filter. EEK!!!!!!

Now this is interesting - the Euro service manual calls for oil change every 6000 miles, filter every 12000. But the US owners manual specifies the intervals above. Interesting right? So I guess the moral of the story is to refer to your owners manual for the basics (even if you have the Euro service manual), and get the US service manual when it becomes available...

 

[Venture]

People ask me what kind of oil I think is best, I say "oil oil". The important thing is that you change it, not the brand or the synth or the dino content. OIL is the crucial thing. Get some. Change it. Go ride.

+1. Frequent changes keeps the clutch happy as well. I know a few guys who run conventional oil in their bikes that were prescribed to use high-spec synth, and they report no ill effects or loss of performance. They change it more frequently because it's half the price.

I also know that nowadays I'm chucking just about anything that says 5w-30 on it in my wife's Explorer, and so far no difference in anything.

 

[rem]

5W-30 is the drug of choice around these parts. R

 

[~TABASCO~]

yea... 5-40 for me, a bit farther south.... Like next to Mexico....

 

[Firefight911]

....and any 5w is not considered an approved oil choice per the manual. 10W30, 10W40, 10W50, 15W40, 20W40, or 20W50 are the approved weights, only, of API service grade SG type or higher, JASO standard MA. Oils of diesel spec of CD or ANY oil higher than quality specified or oils labeled "energy conserving II" or higher are not spec'd either.

It's interesting how Yamaha now specifically states that they require copies of work orders and/or receipts for parts purchased and installed on your vehicle to document maintenance has been completed. (Pg. 10-5 of the California Owner Manual)

I know, I know....just understand my perspective after having gone through the 2 lemon law buybacks on my BMWs over this last year. I catch this kind of stuff and have documentation that is iron clad defendable. Hey, I have a 5 year warranty to look out for and since there is no mileage restriction and I usually average 20,000 to 30,000 miles a year on a motorcycle it could become important to me and any potential claim for warranty I may file down the road.

No panties in a bunch people, I am only providing information. You do what you want and you choose! I do what I feel comfortable with and can defend.

 

[hANNAbONE]

Okay...in all honesty the synth track on this thread was fairly a poke poke prod prod..just having fun.

On the other hand now...let's address this filling over and under filling of the oil holder tank.

Is there really on overfilling possibility?

 

[colorider]

It's interesting how Yamaha now specifically states that they require copies of work orders and/or receipts for parts purchased and installed on your vehicle to document maintenance has been completed. (Pg. 10-5 of the California Owner Manual)

Interesting - seems to go against what the law states........

 

[colorider]

Oils of diesel spec of CD or ANY oil higher than quality specified or oils labeled "energy conserving II" or higher are not spec'd either.

Okay - now I have a question/concern!!!!

I have used Rotella T (CG grade) in numerous motorcycles as it is suitable for a wet-clutch. But reading this above goes totally against that!!

Yesterday I changed my oil and once again used the Rotella T 15W-40. Have I done wrong? Do I need to change it out ASAP?

:question: :exclaim: :question: :exclaim:

 

[Firefight911]

I dunno, I'm only reporting the written word of the manual. Not being a part of the design team or an oil engineer, anything I say is just opinion. I am only going to use the spec listed.