Front fender replacement

[Topgear]

I was fitting the new K60's yesterday when I noticed a big chunk missing out of the back edge of my front fender. Don't really know when it happened. Any aftermarket options to replace the front fender? I thought about just rounding off what's left of the fender, but that would probably take away a lot of material. I know a lot of people don't like the look, but I'd even consider a "beak" type fender. Thanks!

 

[EricV]

There aren't a lot of options besides the oem fender. If you look at the bottom of the forum page for this thread, you should see some older threads relating to fender mods or raising. WASP Works was working on a very nice option of running a Suzuki dirt bike fender up high, under the triple tree, but I never saw that offered for sale, just his posts on it. Ride On ADV (Jaxon), was/is offering a raising kit, but that's not really a replacement fender.

There have been some front fender breakage on other S10s from interference with the skid plate, usually when equipped with a fender extender.

Another option would be to find a piece of ABS plastic and just shape it and glue it to your existing fender with ABS cement. I broke mine and had the broken off piece, so glued it back with some reinforcing pits of ABS and it's been fine for a long time now. (25k or more.) Or perhaps even a piece of mud flap attached to give you a bit more in the back, but still use the existing fender you have with a little clean up.

 

[tomatocity]

For the sake of shared information... what skid plate do you have?... did you crawl a rock or log or curb?

I replaced my front fender but that was the result of a pickup truck backed into me and broke the nose of the fender.

 

[Topgear]

I have Jaxon's skid plate. No log jumping and no major curbs that I can recall.

 

[Topgear]

Well, since there aren't any good aftermarket fenders, and since I'm short on time and money before my upcoming trip, I just decided to trim down the fender. I put down some painters tape over the end of the fender then I used a pencil and string off of the brake line clip to mark out my cut. Used a fine tooth blade in the jigsaw and it cut perfectly. I cleaned up the edge a bit with a hand file and it looks good enough for me!

Kent

 

[Swagger]

Nice work .... You could probably put a fender extender on that now to get the length back.

 

[tomatocity]

I was hoping you had Jaxon's skid plate. The skid plate will give you the protection you need but it will get dirtier. Looks good, no problem.

 

[Topgear]

Anyone see any reason I couldn't leave the fender at this length? Jaxon's skid plate does offer quite a bit of protection.

Kent

 

[avc8130]

Any idea WHY the fender was broken in the first place? Any chance it caught the skid plate under compression?

ac

 

[Topgear]

I really don't recall an event that would have compressed the forks enough to hit the skid plate. Doesn't mean it didn't happen. I'm 6'4" 290lbs, so I probably compress the suspension more than the average guy.

 

[avc8130]

I really don't recall an event that would have compressed the forks enough to hit the skid plate. Doesn't mean it didn't happen. I'm 6'4" 290lbs, so I probably compress the suspension more than the average guy.

Put a zip tie around the fork slider. Then you will KNOW how much front travel you use.

ac

 

[Topgear]

OK, so I went out for a closer inspection of the skid plate. I did see some marks and using the flash on the camera helps bring them out. Definitely looks like I caught the top of the skid plate with the fender. I just don't recall when it happened.

 

[tomatocity]

Good photo. This probably would not happen if this heavy motorcycle had 48mm fork tubes.

 

[Topgear]

Added zip ties to the forks and turned up the front pre-load to 4 from 5.5 (factory). Thanks for the help and input, guys!

Kent

 

[avc8130]

Good photo. This probably would not happen if this heavy motorcycle had 48mm fork tubes.

I would have gone with proper springs and sag for his weight first...

ac

 

[avc8130]

Added zip ties to the forks and turned up the front pre-load to 4 from 5.5 (factory). Thanks for the help and input, guys!

Kent

Kent,

Don't adjust blind. What is your sag?

Put the bike on the centerstand and weight the rear so the front tire is off the ground. Measure how much slider is exposed.

Now get on the bike and jostle the suspension. As someone else to take the same measurement.

Subtract B from A and let me know what you get. You are looking for ~50-55mm.

ac

 

[tomatocity]

I would have gone with proper springs and sag for his weight first...

ac

The 48mm forks tubes reference was for all Super Tenere's. The 43mm fork tubes apparently flex too much and the stock fork spring allows the forks to travel too much. Hard braking with a bump can cause the rear of the fender to hit/snag most of the aftermarket skid plates and break the fender. Add the FendExtenda and the hit/snag happens easier.

The very light DRZ 400 has 47mm fork tubes and the 550+ pound Explorer has 48mm fork tubes (though they are not as adjustable as the Tenere fork tubes). Guessing the 47mm or 48mm do not flex like the 43mm on a 600+ pound Tenere.

Now consider the fork oil volume difference between the 43mm and the 48mm.

 

[avc8130]

The 48mm forks tubes reference was for all Super Tenere's. The 43mm fork tubes apparently flex too much and the stock fork spring allows the forks to travel too much. Hard braking with a bump can cause the rear of the fender to hit/snag most of the aftermarket skid plates and break the fender. Add the FendExtenda and the hit/snag happens easier.

The very light DRZ 400 has 47mm fork tubes and the 550+ pound Explorer has 48mm fork tubes (though they are not as adjustable as the Tenere fork tubes). Guessing the 47mm or 48mm do not flex like the 43mm on a 600+ pound Tenere.

Now consider the fork oil volume difference between the 43mm and the 48mm.

That's what you get when you get a "parts bin" bike. The stock forks are basically R6S forks...extended. If you want to see flex, but the front wheel in a chock and turn the bars.

What do you feel the extra oil volume would provide?

ac

 

[tomatocity]

That's what you get when you get a "parts bin" bike. The stock forks are basically R6S forks...extended. If you want to see flex, but the front wheel in a chock and turn the bars.

What do you feel the extra oil volume would provide?

ac

I am not an engineer by any means, so... same volume, less movement or same movement, more volume.

 

[avc8130]

I am not an engineer by any means, so... same volume, less movement or same movement, more volume.

The overall volume of oil really doesn't matter for what you are thinking. Oil Height (related to volume) is a tuning tool that can be adjusted. If you do some research, you will find that the "tuning" is less about the actual oil and more about the AIR GAP. This air acts as a progressive spring as the fork compresses. Reducing the air volume (raising oil height) will make the air spring firmer and generally helps prevent harsh bottoming.

Going to a larger fork diameter for a larger oil volume just doesn't make sense. Larger fork diameters are employed for 2 reasons: stiffness and to fit larger hydraulic valves.

ac