So I just got a Penske rear shock for $400 that's basically brand new. I know I'm going to have to do something with the front to be happy. The high speed compression seems tighter than a frogs ass. Kicks like a mule over frost heaves and the like. Soltec has services for full Penske pistons for $540, not sure I need to go that far. Are there others who have experience with the S10 forks? Thanks.
Fork Guru's
- Thread starter spam16v
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Mark R.
Member
I got a straight rate fork spring from Stoltec for about $90, and I am very happy with it. I still had to back off the compression and rebound damping to get the fork to follow undulations, but with this set-up I am not looking to upgrade my fork. BTW, I have a Cogent Dynamics shock out back so I would consider the suspension upgraded both front and rear now.
The right springs will probably get you a big improvement, but I have to tell you
Nick set mine up and they are the absolute best I've ever ridden
Nick set mine up and they are the absolute best I've ever ridden
I'm assuming if you paid 400 for the shock, it's used. Did you have it serviced and set up for your weight and riding purposes? Probably a good place to start.
Do you have preload set correctly for front and rear? Even if the front forks are stock, I'd start adjusting them as much as possible but would at the very least get fork springs...
Do you have preload set correctly for front and rear? Even if the front forks are stock, I'd start adjusting them as much as possible but would at the very least get fork springs...
Honestly, most guys don't "know" enough to make statements like the OP has. The fact that he nailed down and issue, and used the correct terminology, leads me to believe he has experience with proper suspension in the past.
To fix EXACTLY what he complains about can only be accomplished with re-valving the forks. Swapping to proper straight-rate springs won't fix his complaint. They WILL make the forks perform better, but they won't help high speed compression damping.
$400 for a Penske is a smoking deal. Especially if the spring rate is proper.
I'd take the money saved and revalve the forks to get them performing at the same level.
ac
To fix EXACTLY what he complains about can only be accomplished with re-valving the forks. Swapping to proper straight-rate springs won't fix his complaint. They WILL make the forks perform better, but they won't help high speed compression damping.
$400 for a Penske is a smoking deal. Especially if the spring rate is proper.
I'd take the money saved and revalve the forks to get them performing at the same level.
ac
Usually no one will share their stack info... I just assume pay someone for a revalve vs tear down 2-3x experimenting. I have nitrogen etc & will shim up and respring the Penske quick, just not enthused about pulling the forks down too many times. Thanks
avc8130 said:
I had linear springs fitted and the oil / air gap changed.
It made a good difference to ride quality for my mainly tarmac use, seems to give a bit more feedback and rides bumps a lot better (especially on the brakes) and just feel more controlled.
I do still find it jars a bit on what I would call "sharp edges" at speed, like when two pieces of paved road are badly joined, almost certainly better than before, and I have no idea if spending a lot more money would really solve this "problem" - as in, it is already better than any other bike I have owned at dealing with crap roads (and we have loads here in the UK so I have lots of experience of riding bikes on shite surfaces without ever needing to go off road)
It made a good difference to ride quality for my mainly tarmac use, seems to give a bit more feedback and rides bumps a lot better (especially on the brakes) and just feel more controlled.
I do still find it jars a bit on what I would call "sharp edges" at speed, like when two pieces of paved road are badly joined, almost certainly better than before, and I have no idea if spending a lot more money would really solve this "problem" - as in, it is already better than any other bike I have owned at dealing with crap roads (and we have loads here in the UK so I have lots of experience of riding bikes on shite surfaces without ever needing to go off road)
Bikedude987
Member
FIX for HSC damping
IF you're comfortable doing your forks and are willing to take apart the damper cartridge, Yamaha has left us all a nice easter egg in there.
Once you've got the compression piston out of the bottom of the damper cartridge, you'll see that the three compression ports are only about .025" holes. You can open these up (with a hand drill if careful, I didn't want to indicate them in on the mill...) to around .0625, maybe a little bigger. Even with the stock shim stack this makes a monumental difference.
FYI, when I did mine I also put in .80 springs from Nick and 5w oil, forget the brand...
IF you're comfortable doing your forks and are willing to take apart the damper cartridge, Yamaha has left us all a nice easter egg in there.
Once you've got the compression piston out of the bottom of the damper cartridge, you'll see that the three compression ports are only about .025" holes. You can open these up (with a hand drill if careful, I didn't want to indicate them in on the mill...) to around .0625, maybe a little bigger. Even with the stock shim stack this makes a monumental difference.
FYI, when I did mine I also put in .80 springs from Nick and 5w oil, forget the brand...