First Valve Clearance check on my 2014

[SkunkWorks]

So the Super Tenere is overdue for its first valve clearance check. In fact it has right at 32,000 miles on it.
I've been putting it off as I've had other projects going on.
The bike has actually been parked since earlier this year with leaking fork-seals, so I haven't been riding it. (been riding the FJ1200 around lately)
I had collected all of the parts and gaskets that I might need previously, and I borrowed a shim-kit from another local member a couple months ago.. (thank you @Paul466!)
I have also been collecting parts to go through the Suspension, but with summer camping-trips and all kinds of other projects I just couldn't get to it.
This weekend I finally had a couple free days to tear into it!

First I'd like to say a big "Thank You" to the other members who have posted about this procedure! All of the pictures and explanations are an invaluable resource to anyone who follows!
I did my research, both in the posts on here as well as various youtube videos.................I was mentally prepared for most anything that I would encounter.
All of the Member's posts were a huge help!

Since I knew part of this service was going to involve rebuilding the front suspension, the first thing I did was strap it to the Garage-Floor.
I have a few extra Anchors mounted in the floor certain places around the garage. When I need them, I just thread a couple eyelets into the anchors and get to work.





I set up my workbench for easy access to the Service-Manual, my worksheets, and feeler-gauges.
A lot of people wouldn't take the time to measure their feeler-gauges with a micrometer, but I do.
Having the "actual" thicknesses comes in handy, especially when you start stacking two different ones to zero-in on the exact measurements....................Just something that my Dad taught me years ago that I still do.



Next I got busy with the disassembly.
It actually only took me about an hour and a half to get to this point, and that included blowing all the dust and dirt out of everything with compressed-air as i went.
I figured since the forks are going to be coming off anyway, I might as well remove them first to gain easier access to the front of the Engine.



Next was to remove the Throttle-Bodies and Ignition Coils.
I labeled every single connector one-by-one as I disconnected them...............This makes a huge help when it comes time to reconnect everything.





I peered down inside the intake ports before covering them up with plastic and rubber-bands.
A slight amount of carbon on the backs of the intake valves, but not too bad.............



I removed the spark-plugs next and inspected those. They look normal and appear to be functioning properly.
Only the #2 spark-plug had a trace of corrosion on the top of the metal shell. None of the other ones did.
I would be installing a brand-new set of factory-spec ones while I'm in there.

 

[Sierra1]

That's it, glad you showed this. I'll start saving up for this now. This is wa-a-a-ay beyond my capabilities.

 

[RCinNC]

I'm with Sierra; out of all the maintenance I've personally done, I've always taken the bike to the shop for the valve check. Even after doing this:

and this...

I still wuss out when it comes to doing the valve check.

 

[SkunkWorks]

Next was the dreaded Valve-Cover!
I wasn't too concerned about the gasket, as I have a new one.
Removing it wasn't too bad............It helps being able to access the front of the engine for this and get one of your hands in from the front.
The Cover will not come out through the front however. It has to be removed toward the back of the bike, as well as be reinstalled from the rear.
There is not enough room between the frame above it, and the exhaust camshaft cap-tower assembly. The spark-plug tube protrusions hit and will not clear.

It also helps to zip-tie the various harnesses up to the frame and out of the way like everyone posts about. The biggest one is the main harness on the right that comes out of the back of the PDC and goes down the frame. It helps to make some slack in it and get it up and towards the right.


If you are just doing the clearance checks, then this is as far into the engine as you need to go.
You do not need to remove the Clutch-Cover to check the valves (I was prepared to if I had to, with a new gasket just in case)
You can unscrew this plastic cap and peer inside with a light to see all of the timing marks that you need to access, as well as rotate the crankshaft to the proper positions with a socket through the hole.
There is a rubber o-ring that seals the threaded cap to the clutch-cover.



I took my time and checked, double-checked, and triple-checked all my measurements in the proper sequence as I wrote them down on the worksheet. (I use this sheet for adjusting valves on my FJ1200, but it's handy for any 4-valve engine)
I ended up with two exhaust valves that are right at the tight end of the range, but since they are still within the spec range I'm going to leave them until the next check interval.
Taking the measurement out to "thousands of a millimeter" they both measured .223, so I'm comfortable with leaving them until next time.
All of the other valves are well within the spec range.

(If anyone wants the Word.doc file for the worksheet, just message me and I can email it to you.)



Since I didn't have to pull the camshafts, the timing tensioner, or the clutch-cover, it came time to reinstall the Valve-Cover back on the engine.
The gasket that I took off was in such good condition that I decided to just reuse it instead of using the new one. (I'll save it for next time)
I've researched the different methods and there are two trains of thought:
One is to stick the gasket to the cover and put them on the engine together, and the other is to install the gasket on the engine and mount the cover over the top of it.
I honestly don't know which method would be easier, aside from reading posts about some folks having challenges with lining up the gasket by installing it on the engine first.
Since the Valve-cover has the groove for the gasket machined into it, I decided to go that route.
I used 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive to glue the gasket to the cover, as well as the spark-plug tube rings.
Then I took a break and went inside to have some lunch and watch an Indycar race while the adhesive dried.



After the break, and with the gasket well-stuck to the cover, what happened next was nothing short of miraculous!
The cover went onto the engine without much trouble at all!
I had psyched myself up for a battle with all the research I had done................. It actually was not that bad.
Yes it's a tight fit, and you absolutely have to install it from the rear. If you take the time and make some slack in that main harness on the right, and tie it up out of the way, you can wiggle the cover right into place.
Yes it also helps to get a hand in from the front to help guide the cover as you install it.
The gasket or the rings never moved from the cover, and went right down into place on the first try.



I reinstalled the grommets for the six bolts and tightened it down snug.
These shouldered-bolts will bottom themselves onto the camshaft caps. DO NOT overtighten them!

New Spark-Plugs went in next, and then reinstalled the ignition-coils.

Now I've read a bunch of different posts about people installing an extra o-ring, or using grease or silicone to seal the ignition-coil to the top of the spark-plug tube.
I originally thought I might use a little waterproof silicone-grease on them when I reinstalled mine, but after studying them closely I chose to for-go all that and install them dry. Here's why.......
First: When I removed them, I did not find any evidence of water intrusion. They were all clean down inside there, even though I've ridden in the rain and through many water-crossings and splashed through puddles.
Second: If you look closely at the design of them where they seal inside the top of the tubes, there are two built-in o-rings molded into the rubber construction. Each of these two "o-rings" has a vapor-channel made into them that is clocked 180-degrees off from each other. If any moisture makes its way down into the tubes, it will heat up with the engine and turn to steam and vapor. It needs a path to escape. I chose not to add anything that would potentially block this from taking place.
Your mileage may vary, and you may choose a different method when installing yours.





This is where I stopped for the day on the reassembly of the bike.
I have a couple other things I want to do before I install the air-box and fuel-tank back on the bike. Having the extra access will be helpful.

I would say "Valve Clearance Check" is not a difficult job at all.
Have patience, take your time and be methodical, and it's not any more complicated than anything else on the bike.
The factory service-manual is right on the money as far as procedure goes, and was easy to follow for me.

 

[~TABASCO~]

Great work ! Nice photos. It's so cool to see folks do this work. Did you happen to stick in a MCCT ? Where did you find that work sheet, I dig it ! The use of the eyelets in the floor is genius !



Fork side note:, im sure you know this, "but for the other folks" that do this work at home. After tearing down the (R) fork. After you add the oil make sure to cycle the air out of the cartridge. The port is at the bottom and the air is trapped and hard to get out. Take the time to get it all out and then re adjust the oil level to the exact amount you want to use, to optimize what ride characteristics your shooting for.
Most ST owners use the stock cartridge with the stock caps. When reinstalling the top cap, don't forget to adjust the jam nut in the correct position so you are left with all the useable "clicks" in and out for rebound. Sometimes this takes several tries. Don't just tighten the cap on the shaft and tighten the jam nut. You will loose half of your adjustably.

You have so much torn out you might want to pull the triple trees and lube the bearings and run your finger nail over the lower race.... Also on the 14+ models you want to make sure the top race is sitting 'square' in the frame. I have come across many that are NOT. Its really evident because the top bearing is only touching 180* of the race. No need for a new one, just re set it or press it in square.

 

[Sierra1]

All that work . . . . only to find out that everything's in spec. But . . . . now you know. I like that the internals were shiny with oil, and looked to be new with no wear. (yeah, I know, these pictures can only show so much)

 

[Jlq1969]

Today, I am not sure what is normal or not. With direct injection "it is normal" for the intake valves to carbonize on their upper part. 30,000 miles is relatively little, and finding carbon there makes me think about the reasons. Too much gas suction from the crankcase (dirty air filter)?…Injection time that exceeds the closing of the valve (flash)??….rich mixture (flash/o2 sensor)??…fuel quality (additives)? ?….perhaps it is something normal today, but in my particular case I have seen gasoline engines (carburetor/indirect injection), with more miles than 30,000 and their intake valves did not show fouling on the upper part…so what Mine would be a kind of query….is it normal?….In direct gasoline injection it is usually normal and sometimes disastrous, especially in engines with a lot of gas recirculation, turbo engines, engines with excessive oil change intervals, etc.
And regarding the work of Skunkworks, impeccable!!!….. although if you already had it uncovered, “it seems to me” that you should have taken those valves to the highest opening range

 

[Cycledude]

Next was the dreaded Valve-Cover!
I wasn't too concerned about the gasket, as I have a new one.
Removing it wasn't too bad............It helps being able to access the front of the engine for this and get one of your hands in from the front.
The Cover will not come out through the front however. It has to be removed toward the back of the bike, as well as be reinstalled from the rear.
There is not enough room between the frame above it, and the exhaust camshaft cap-tower assembly. The spark-plug tube protrusions hit and will not clear.

It also helps to zip-tie the various harnesses up to the frame and out of the way like everyone posts about. The biggest one is the main harness on the right that comes out of the back of the PDC and goes down the frame. It helps to make some slack in it and get it up and towards the right.
View attachment 93882

If you are just doing the clearance checks, then this is as far into the engine as you need to go.
You do not need to remove the Clutch-Cover to check the valves (I was prepared to if I had to, with a new gasket just in case)
You can unscrew this plastic cap and peer inside with a light to see all of the timing marks that you need to access, as well as rotate the crankshaft to the proper positions with a socket through the hole.
There is a rubber o-ring that seals the threaded cap to the clutch-cover.

View attachment 93883

I took my time and checked, double-checked, and triple-checked all my measurements in the proper sequence as I wrote them down on the worksheet. (I use this sheet for adjusting valves on my FJ1200, but it's handy for any 4-valve engine)
I ended up with two exhaust valves that are right at the tight end of the range, but since they are still within the spec range I'm going to leave them until the next check interval.
Taking the measurement out to "thousands of a millimeter" they both measured .223, so I'm comfortable with leaving them until next time.
All of the other valves are well within the spec range.

(If anyone wants the Word.doc file for the worksheet, just message me and I can email it to you.)

View attachment 93884

Since I didn't have to pull the camshafts, the timing tensioner, or the clutch-cover, it came time to reinstall the Valve-Cover back on the engine.
The gasket that I took off was in such good condition that I decided to just reuse it instead of using the new one. (I'll save it for next time)
I've researched the different methods and there are two trains of thought:
One is to stick the gasket to the cover and put them on the engine together, and the other is to install the gasket on the engine and mount the cover over the top of it.
I honestly don't know which method would be easier, aside from reading posts about some folks having challenges with lining up the gasket by installing it on the engine first.
Since the Valve-cover has the groove for the gasket machined into it, I decided to go that route.
I used 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive to glue the gasket to the cover, as well as the spark-plug tube rings.
Then I took a break and went inside to have some lunch and watch an Indycar race while the adhesive dried.

View attachment 93885

After the break, and with the gasket well-stuck to the cover, what happened next was nothing short of miraculous!
The cover went onto the engine without much trouble at all!
I had psyched myself up for a battle with all the research I had done................. It actually was not that bad.
Yes it's a tight fit, and you absolutely have to install it from the rear. If you take the time and make some slack in that main harness on the right, and tie it up out of the way, you can wiggle the cover right into place.
Yes it also helps to get a hand in from the front to help guide the cover as you install it.
The gasket or the rings never moved from the cover, and went right down into place on the first try.

View attachment 93889

I reinstalled the grommets for the six bolts and tightened it down snug.
These shouldered-bolts will bottom themselves onto the camshaft caps. DO NOT overtighten them!

New Spark-Plugs went in next, and then reinstalled the ignition-coils.

Now I've read a bunch of different posts about people installing an extra o-ring, or using grease or silicone to seal the ignition-coil to the top of the spark-plug tube.
I originally thought I might use a little waterproof silicone-grease on them when I reinstalled mine, but after studying them closely I chose to for-go all that and install them dry. Here's why.......
First: When I removed them, I did not find any evidence of water intrusion. They were all clean down inside there, even though I've ridden in the rain and through many water-crossings and splashed through puddles.
Second: If you look closely at the design of them where they seal inside the top of the tubes, there are two built-in o-rings molded into the rubber construction. Each of these two "o-rings" has a vapor-channel made into them that is clocked 180-degrees off from each other. If any moisture makes its way down into the tubes, it will heat up with the engine and turn to steam and vapor. It needs a path to escape. I chose not to add anything that would potentially block this from taking place.
Your mileage may vary, and you may choose a different method when installing yours.

View attachment 93891

View attachment 93892

This is where I stopped for the day on the reassembly of the bike.
I have a couple other things I want to do before I install the air-box and fuel-tank back on the bike. Having the extra access will be helpful.

I would say "Valve Clearance Check" is not a difficult job at all.
Have patience, take your time and be methodical, and it's not any more complicated than anything else on the bike.
The factory service-manual is right on the money as far as procedure goes, and was easy to follow for me.

View attachment 93893

Nice work ! I like your explanation about not installing extra O ring on the coils, I’ve ridden in a lot of rain and my spark plugs never had any rust either . I believe running some Marvel Mystery Oil in your gas would very likely remove the carbon from the valves.

 

[WJBertrand]

Today, I am not sure what is normal or not. With direct injection "it is normal" for the intake valves to carbonize on their upper part. 30,000 miles is relatively little, and finding carbon there makes me think about the reasons. Too much gas suction from the crankcase (dirty air filter)?…Injection time that exceeds the closing of the valve (flash)??….rich mixture (flash/o2 sensor)??…fuel quality (additives)? ?….perhaps it is something normal today, but in my particular case I have seen gasoline engines (carburetor/indirect injection), with more miles than 30,000 and their intake valves did not show fouling on the upper part…so what Mine would be a kind of query….is it normal?….In direct gasoline injection it is usually normal and sometimes disastrous, especially in engines with a lot of gas recirculation, turbo engines, engines with excessive oil change intervals, etc.
And regarding the work of Skunkworks, impeccable!!!….. although if you already had it uncovered, “it seems to me” that you should have taken those valves to the highest opening range

The Super Ténéré does not have direct injection, it has more conventional port injection. Direct injection shoots the fuel directly into the combustion chamber.

Usually port injected bikes have less carbonization on the intake valves as they get “washed” with fuel all the time. Some small amount of carbon is normal but if there’s thick, heavy deposits, I would wonder if the bike is being used only for short slow rides or poor fuel quality is being used. Make sure to use only Top Tier fuel, and “blow the carbon out” occasionally!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[SkunkWorks]

Great work ! Nice photos. It's so cool to see folks do this work. Did you happen to stick in a MCCT ? Where did you find that work sheet, I dig it ! The use of the eyelets in the floor is genius !



Fork side note:, im sure you know this, "but for the other folks" that do this work at home. After tearing down the (R) fork. After you add the oil make sure to cycle the air out of the cartridge. The port is at the bottom and the air is trapped and hard to get out. Take the time to get it all out and then re adjust the oil level to the exact amount you want to use, to optimize what ride characteristics your shooting for.
Most ST owners use the stock cartridge with the stock caps. When reinstalling the top cap, don't forget to adjust the jam nut in the correct position so you are left with all the useable "clicks" in and out for rebound. Sometimes this takes several tries. Don't just tighten the cap on the shaft and tighten the jam nut. You will loose half of your adjustably.

You have so much torn out you might want to pull the triple trees and lube the bearings and run your finger nail over the lower race.... Also on the 14+ models you want to make sure the top race is sitting 'square' in the frame. I have come across many that are NOT. Its really evident because the top bearing is only touching 180* of the race. No need for a new one, just re set it or press it in square.

I did not buy a MCCT. I did take a picture of the one that's on there. Just wanted to check which part number was installed.
I've never had any issue with any valvetrain or timing chain noise. I may revisit the tensioner the next time i go in there.



The "Worksheet" that I use is the one I have been using for years. I believe it originally came from someone in the FJ-Owners group? Can't remember for certain though.

Thank you for your tips on servicing the Forks............I already know about cycling the piston to get the trapped air out when setting the oil level.
The tip about the fork-cap is helpful. I'll have to do my studying before reassembling to make sure i don't compromise the adjustability.

I already serviced the triple-clamps recently. Installed new upper and lower bearings and races. I used "All-Balls" set and did not have any issues. All good there.

 

[tntmo]

I don't think that the Tenere is extremely difficult to do a valve check/adjust on, there are many bikes I have worked on that are more of a PITA. The timing marks being only on the outside of the cam sprockets is the one thing that I really thought the engineers could have done better.

I had water intrusion in my airbox and spark plug wells after riding through heavy rain in Canada for almost 1000 miles over two days. I have done some modifications but have been fortunate not to ride through rain like that since then, so I can't say whether it has helped.

Great job on staying on top of the maintenance, I am probably going to steal your valve check worksheet.

 

[SkunkWorks]

Today, I am not sure what is normal or not. With direct injection "it is normal" for the intake valves to carbonize on their upper part. 30,000 miles is relatively little, and finding carbon there makes me think about the reasons. Too much gas suction from the crankcase (dirty air filter)?…Injection time that exceeds the closing of the valve (flash)??….rich mixture (flash/o2 sensor)??…fuel quality (additives)? ?….perhaps it is something normal today, but in my particular case I have seen gasoline engines (carburetor/indirect injection), with more miles than 30,000 and their intake valves did not show fouling on the upper part…so what Mine would be a kind of query….is it normal?….In direct gasoline injection it is usually normal and sometimes disastrous, especially in engines with a lot of gas recirculation, turbo engines, engines with excessive oil change intervals, etc.
And regarding the work of Skunkworks, impeccable!!!….. although if you already had it uncovered, “it seems to me” that you should have taken those valves to the highest opening range

I'm not sure if this is "Normal" for a typical S10 engine or not? This is the first time I have ever peered down into the intake ports of one.
I have seen many-many gasoline engines, both large and small, and this amount of carbon on the intake valves looks normal to me.
Mine has the factory Yamaha tuning, and I ride with a mix of different speeds and engine rpms. Sometimes I ride sedately at lower rpms, and sometimes I wring its neck!
I've also used all different grades of fuels throughout the time I've owned it. I don't "Lug" the engine excessively, and I've never had an issue with "Pinging"
Honestly, from what I see I don't feel the need to change anything about how I ride it and I'm not one to frequently put additives in the fuel. To me it looks normal...................

I know people who would have taken the exhaust valves to the max of the range while they were in there, but I didn't feel the need. They are still within the specified operating range at this time.
Yes I will probably have to adjust them at the next interval, but it's the same amount of work to me if I did it now or I do it then.......There may be other valves that also need adjusting at the next interval, so I figure if I don't absolutely need to adjust them now, they can wait.........

 

[SkunkWorks]

I don't think that the Tenere is extremely difficult to do a valve check/adjust on, there are many bikes I have worked on that are more of a PITA. The timing marks being only on the outside of the cam sprockets is the one thing that I really thought the engineers could have done better.

I had water intrusion in my airbox and spark plug wells after riding through heavy rain in Canada for almost 1000 miles over two days. I have done some modifications but have been fortunate not to ride through rain like that since then, so I can't say whether it has helped.

Great job on staying on top of the maintenance, I am probably going to steal your valve check worksheet.

I don't know if there is a way to upload the file here for everyone to use or not?
I can email it to you when I get home from work today if you want..

 

[Jlq1969]

yes, I know that the S10 is indirect injection, that's why it seemed strange to me that with 30k miles it had carbon deposits in the intake valve... with direct injection, you can expect anything, and that's what happened in some new cars engine wirh direct injection, the factory solved it with double injection, direct at high rpm and indirect at low rpm (and thus clean the exhaust gas recirculation/crankcase intake valves)

 

[Paul466]

Nice Work Skunk!!! Even nicer write up, passing the torch of tech info for other brave souls that will tackle this project

 

[Sierra1]

. . . . Honestly, from what I see I don't feel the need to change anything about how I ride it and I'm not one to frequently put additives in the fuel. To me it looks normal...................

I know people who would have taken the exhaust valves to the max of the range while they were in there, but I didn't feel the need. They are still within the specified operating range at this time. . . .

I thought it looked super clean with just a little carbon dust. To me, "in range" is in range. If they wanted exact, they'd specify exact.