Escape from DC

dcstrom

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Yesterday morning had an early start to go zipping through the forests and over the valleys above Monteverde, Costa Ri ca. At $45 it was a bit of an extravagance, but it was worth it! 3 of the zip lines were over 600m long, and one was 1.6 km (1 mile). And several hundred feet above the ground. We finished with a tarzan swing, with a 120ft drop. That was a leap of faith...

In the afternoon it was back down to the beach at Samara to have dinner with Sara & Dan, who I'd met at the cheese factory weekend in Guatemala. Good to see them and will probably cross paths again somewhere in Sth America!
 

tpak

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Re: More border crossings

dcstrom said:
I just came back from a week in SJDS - great town. I recognize the bar you were in - not hard since there are only a few. I stayed up the road a bit in a house - about 10k outside of town. Definitely a great area.
 

dcstrom

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Stopped at this place near the Costa Rica/Panama border to ask about a cabin. One look and I could see it was out of my budget. However... A free camp site is not ;-)





 

dcstrom

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[quote author=Chris-KH2PM]

As for finding respect from the youngsters, how did that turn out the next day? Myself, I recall a few times in years past wishing I'd not gone to such extremes with the hard liquor! Ha! The aftereffects have a much longer lasting impression than the fun I had the night before!
[/quote]

Actually I was surprised - after drinking several mojitos, a few rums, plus the 4 chilli shots, I woke up feeling fine. Maybe I should do chilli shots more often?
 

dcstrom

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erenet said:
I agree, that's a nice campsite. Is that bamboo on the second photo?
Yes - BIG bamboo. About 10" diameter and I don't know how high. You can see the car in the background. In the clumping-type bamboos, you harvest them from the center out. Which means you can go and stand in the middle of the clump...

 

tomatocity

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During 1972 I lived in Kiire / Kagoshima Japan. Your picture reminded of the soothing sounds the evening bamboo offered. Good memories.
 

dcstrom

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tomatocity said:
During 1972 I lived in Kiire / Kagoshima Japan. Your picture reminded of the soothing sounds the evening bamboo offered. Good memories.
Yeah, you may see more bamboo pics from me as I head south. Amazing plant, so useful, and as you say, creates a lovely ambience.
 

dcstrom

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In Panama City, Just about to head to the boat.

Camped around Yeguanda National Park a few day ago - fantastic area, and brand new, perfect roads.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=GfalT5sGzu0




Next post from Colombia!
 

Checkswrecks

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dcstrom said:
In Panama City, Just about to head to the boat.

Camped around Yeguanda National Park a few day ago - fantastic area, and brand new, perfect roads.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=GfalT5sGzu0




Next post from Colombia!

Awesome photos and looking forward to more.
Colombia is so colorful and the people so friendly, the next photos should be great!
 

~TABASCO~

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Nice job DC, as aways ! ::012::
 

dcstrom

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South America!

Ten of us converged on Panama City in the days before the Stahlratte was scheduled to take us around the Darien Gap and south to Cartagena, Colombia. I had some fun getting into the hotel in the City, where Gene and Neda and Kari and Rosie were waiting for me. The GPS took me on a seemingly direct route to the hotel, but then there were some roadworks and associated diversions and I ended up going through some sleazy looking areas (glad it was still daylight) and several hundred meters down a pedestrian mall. It wasn't immediately obvious to me that it was a mall, since many market streets on this trip had produce and people overflowing onto the roadway. It was when I got to potplants and street furniture that I realized this wasn't one of those! I was lucky no cops saw me I guess - earlier Kari and Rosie had accidentally gone the wrong way down a one-way street (often they are poorly marked) and police asked for a $190 payment for the fine. After some discussion they were let off...

Not terribly impressed with Panama City - noisy, hot, dirty and people probably the least friendly of any I've come across so far. We were glad to get out of there early on March 28th for the 70 mile ride down to the Stahlratte, anchored just off shore at Carti Airport.

There is no actual airport at Carti - just a crumbling airstrip that hasn't been used in years. But there is a dock, and this is where the Stahratte would (litterally) pick up the bikes.

The bikes and the Stahlratte offshore



Gene, Neda and Captain Ludwig (AKA Lulu)



Dock was a bit busy because of the start of the Easter holidays.



The bikes await their fate.





Gulp! Hope the ropes, and the bits they are attached to, hold.





Loading went pretty smoothly in the end, and we got settled in our bunks and headed out to one of the many San Blas islands for the night...
 

nicolasr

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Nice RR. I see your friends Trevor. They have a RR and Advrider. I have been following them too!!!! tell them there is a BMW dealer in Medellin if service needed.
Trevor, I see you have the H&B crash bars fitted to your bike. What are your thoughts??

Nicolas
 

Dirt_Dad

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Trevor, I am glad to be following your adventure here in these posts. Between the border crossings, the attempted police shakedown for a wrong way mistake, and watching your bike hanging over water by a few cables, I don't know if I have right attitude to make the trip myself. Looks like you're really living an adventure. I admire it, just don't think I could do it. Thanks for keeping us up to date. Stay safe.
 

dcstrom

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nicolasr said:
Nice RR. I see your friends Trevor. They have a RR and Advrider. I have been following them too!!!! tell them there is a BMW dealer in Medellin if service needed.
Trevor, I see you have the H&B crash bars fitted to your bike. What are your thoughts??

Nicolas
Hi Nicolas,
Yes there are a bunch of us, all having a great time on the road. We spent 4 days on the boat together, and now all at the same hostel in Cartagena. Tomorrow we'll leave together (riding in a group of 8 will be interesting after so long solo!), then separating (for now anyway) at Santa Marta.

Love the H&B skidplate and bars. Only problem, I dropped the bike on a curb in Mexico and it missed the bars altogether, and cracked the side cover. Some of the other bars give more coverage. No big deal for me though, some glue fixed it!
 

dcstrom

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Dirt_Dad said:
Trevor, I am glad to be following your adventure here in these posts. Between the border crossings, the attempted police shakedown for a wrong way mistake, and watching your bike hanging over water by a few cables, I don't know if I have right attitude to make the trip myself. Looks like you're really living an adventure. I admire it, just don't think I could do it. Thanks for keeping us up to date. Stay safe.
Hey Jon,

really, it's easier than you'd think. Yes, you have to have some patience and be accepting of whatever comes - whether that's a shakedown or dropping the bike in the drink! But I find if you run over the worst case (or next-to-worst-case) scenarios in your mind, and try to imagine how you'd handle it if it happened, then there is less stress overall and when everything goes right it's a bonus! :D
 

dcstrom

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South America!

Motoring for an hour or so bought us to the island where we'd be staying the night. The Kuna indians control the San Blas Islands and some of the mainland nearby, and they make a little bit of cash by accommodating visitors on one of the islands.



For $25 a head we got a simple meal and a bed for the night in a bamboo hut.



But the bathroom facilities left something to be desired. It was literally possible to get "crabs" off the toilet seat!





The bikes were not yet covered for the trip across the open sea.





The Stahlratte at anchor off the Kuna island.



The Kuna still live a very simple lifestyle, based around fishing and growing some crops on the mainland. I was told that one reason they prefer living on the islands is that there are no mosquitoes.





The next day we set sail for a group of uninhabited islands where we snorkeled, BBQ'd, relaxed and partied for a day and a night.





Food on board the Stahlratte was fantastic.



Bikes were well protected for the rougher part of the trip.



After the fun at anchor on our own desert island, we had 30 hours of sailing across sometimes rough seas to get to Cartagena. Most people handled it pretty well, and I think we all were on some sort of anti-sea-sickness medication. It was a rather more subdued group of passengers than had been evident just the day before... After a full day of sailing I'd just about found my sea legs, nausea had subsided and I had a fairly good night's sleep.



We arrived at Cartagena at 11am on April 1, and made our way to a hostel that was organized for us by Ludwig. It's always going to be a problem finding somewhere with secure parking for 8 bikes, but this place has a central courtyard for them. Just a bit tricky getting them in, up a steep ramp and through the lobby. Nice place though, and it's good that all the gang from the boat can stay together.

Next problem is unloading the bikes... Cartagena has a large port, but berthing fees are unaffordable for a ship like the Stahlratte. That means loading the bikes into a dingy, and unloading them on a some jetty in the bay. Check this out!





The Tenere arriving at the jetty...



Five people to lift - two in the dingy and three on the dock... pretty nervous at this point!



But the pain was over in a flash.

Unloading the Super Tenere at Cartegena, Colombia

On dry land at last!



From the dock we had to go to Customs and get importation and insurances done. Ludwig had an agent organise this for us so it was pretty easy, certainly more relaxed than any of the border crossings so far.

I can't speak highly enough of Ludwig and the crew of the Stahlratte. Great fun, great food, well organized (Germans, y'know). No hesitation about recommending them for anyone thinking about this trip. Price has just gone up to $980 for person and bike, but still cheaper than flying and more of an adventure. Just book well in advance.

Cartagena is a great city, but now I'm ready to ride again. A week off the bike is enough. South America, here we come!
 
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