Escape from DC

RogerJ

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Know how you feel about the upside down temperatures and gear packing. Rode in Chile, Bolivia and Peru in early August and rode in minus 8 degrees C by day and outside temperatures at night of minus 20 degrees C. The good news was that at least it was dry! Always look on the bright side of life (insert Monty Python style whistling here). :)
 

dcstrom

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I visited the KTM shop in Cuenca the other day, the new 1190 Adventure was there. The salesman gave me the brochure for it. "Garage in Constant Use" - appropriate I thought - KTM's spend a lot of time there!

Nearly as silly as the "Unstoppable" campaign that BMW used on the introduction of the frequently-stoppable F800GS...

 

dcstrom

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Checkswrecks said:
:D


I've been screwed up going to the southern hemisphere.
My pea brain just fights the idea of packing gloves, hats, and other winter gear when it's 90+ degrees and I'm sweating in the DC humidity.


Glad to hear you are well and look forward to your sharing!
::012::
Yeah I was listening to NPR the other day (strangely) and hear DC was 90 and humid. I was sitting in the cool, wet mountains, thinking, glad I'm not in DC right now!

At the beach now, and it's been cool and cloudy. Pretty nice actually!
 

dcstrom

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OK, way past time to update some stuff here...

After leaving Medellin, first stop was Pablo Escobar's former mansion and property. Most of you will probably remember Escobar's reign of terror in Colombia in the 80's and 90's, at the height of the cocaine boom. At the time he was the richest criminal in history, his wealth estimated in the billions. There was a story that he made an offer to the Colombian government to pay off the national debt, in return for the creation of an independent state within Colombia, of which he would be the leader. THAT'S how rich he was - rich enough to buy himself a county. The government refused.

More here
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pablo_Escobar

He owned a property about 120 miles from Medellin, and I was curious to see it. That was to be my stop on the first day out of town, after 2 weeks in Medellin.

It's the strangest dead person's mansion I've been to since Gracelands! The government took it over after his death, and I guess since it was already more-or-less some kind of theme park, somebody thought it was a good idea to build on the idea. I think "Jurassic Park" was influential in the design... if you notice the typeface on the logo, it's the same as on the titles for the movie.

They've obviously put a lot of effort into it. The dinosaurs, the zoo, the hippos in the lake and his first drug-smuggling plane on the arch at the front all date from Pablo's time, but now there are 3 hotels and some other things that look like they are new. Admission is relatively expensive by Colombian standards, about $20, and I'm sure the hotels are expensive. I was the only visitor there! It seems to mean that this estate, which was a rich man's playground, has now been turned into, well, a rich man's playground. I don't think this is what was intended when the government took it over, I think the idea was to takes Pablo's riches and give it back to the people in the form of this theme park. It's quite well done, but apart from being expensive to enter and obviously maintain, it's also quite a long drive from either Medellin or Bogota. It would be a nice day trip for middle class people from the big cities, but it's a weekend trip really. With only one visitor this morning - me - I have to wonder if it will be around for long. But what the hell, it was paid for with drug money anyway. Thankyou to all the 80's American cocaine fiends!

All the things below are what Pablo had built on the property, or recreations of what was there. Remember, all this stuff was for his own amusement, only since the goverment claimed the property has it been open to the public. They have added hotels and some other attractions, but I wasn't really interested in those...

The entrance to the property - Pablo's first drug-running plane


A really weird water park and dinosaurs











Diplodicus, with some HDR treatment!



The hippo collection. At some point over the years a pair wandered off and started breeding in a nearby river system, and now there are an unknown number of hippos in the Colombian wilderness.







Gorgeous hotel overlooks the hippo lake - but with no guests.



This is a billboard advertising another hotel on the property. I guess the marketing people didn't realise that they don't have safaris in Casablanca when they named the hotel.


Pablo's collection of toys was on display



The Mercedes 6=door saloon in the pic got burnt out at some point, and now looks like this...



Remember these?



Just outside the entrance to the mansion is this giant pink dancing hippo, with flapping eyelashes - huh???



No mansion is complete without the flamingo flock.



And on into the mansion itself. It's interesting that in all the literature and signage, Escobar's name is never mentioned, until you get right into the grounds of the mansion. It's also the only part of the property that doesn't get maintained - just left to rot. It's now a museum dedicated to victims of violence.



Imagine the wild parties that went on around this pool...



Pablo's bedroom - with the image of Pablo sleeping like a baby.



What's left of the prick's crapper.







The rogue's gallery



Some kind of replica of Roman baths?



Pablo himself, beer in hand, shows the way.



The helipad with airstrip in the background.



Who wouldn't want one of these?



A life-size poster of a picture from the day the chased him, barefoot, across Medellin rooftops, and shot him dead. Cop is happy eh? Escobar had many police killed, in fact put a $500/head bounty on them so that kids in poor neigborhoods would do the killing for him.



The poster is mounted on the wall of one of the three garages



Before I wasn't sure what I was going to be in for, but turned out to be a creepy but intriguing look into the mind of a ruthless killer that terrorized his country for years. Creepier than Gracelands? By a long shot! (Weird thought - if Elvis had lived a few more years, he might have been one of Pablo's best customers!)
 

dcstrom

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I'm going to be filling in some gaps in the story soon, but just to bring you up-to-date, I'm in Quito, Ecuador now. I've updated the trip map on Everytrail.

http://www.everytrail.com/iframe2.php?trip_id=2147530

I tend to keep up with things more on Facebook (yeah, I know... but it's the easiest way to keep track of people). If you want to join me there, I'm "aroadanywhere". Send me a friend request, of "follow" me...

Trevor
 

dcstrom

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Hi guy and girls, just a note to let you know I'm still alive and made it to Peru after almost 6 weeks in Ecuador. All´s well, arrived in Huancabamba a couple of days ago via an awesome dirt road. Was planning to stay one day here, then more dirt to Jaen, but it´s rained a lot the last 2 nights and I´m dubious about road conditions heading to Jaen. I asked around and of course one guy said ¨no problem¨ and another one said ¨no way¨! Sun is trying to come out now so I´m going to stay here another day and hope the road dries out a bit.

A couple of pics from the road in... and yes, the Super Tenere took a nap. It was one of those times where there's a very small ridge running down the road - when you try to cross over it, the front makes it and slides down the other side... the rear doesn't, and slides the other way. I saved it twice before this, but third time unlucky. I just wish I knew how I saved it the first two times! No problem though, going slow, I just stepped off, no damage to the bike.







 

Dirt_Dad

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Hi Trevor, good to hear from you. Been wondering where you were. Nice photos. Looks like a wonderful place to ride. I nearly put mine down for a nap earlier this month. Ended up off the road and facing the wrong direction before it was all over. Stuff happens, glad all you got was a napping photo...and maybe a hernia trying to pickup a loaded bike on mud. Good times.
 

twodogs

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Trevor, my man! Been wondering about you and where you may be. Good to hear all is well other than a little nap for the S10 ;D

Take care of yourself and keep the photos coming.

Alan
 

dcstrom

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Dirt_Dad said:
Hi Trevor, good to hear from you. Been wondering where you were. Nice photos. Looks like a wonderful place to ride. I nearly put mine down for a nap earlier this month. Ended up off the road and facing the wrong direction before it was all over. Stuff happens, glad all you got was a napping photo...and maybe a hernia trying to pickup a loaded bike on mud. Good times.
Hey Jon... ending up off the road is a worry for me - how to get it it back? Especially here, where the dropoff can be hundreds of feet ;)

Not too bad getting it up - strap around the front of the Jesse rack and over my shoulder (there is nowhere to grab onto), rubber band on the front brake, then lift with the legs and the left handlebar. Worked a treat!
 

Dirt_Dad

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dcstrom said:
Hey Jon... ending up off the road is a worry for me - how to get it it back? Especially here, where the dropoff can be hundreds of feet ;)

Not too bad getting it up - strap around the front of the Jesse rack and over my shoulder (there is nowhere to grab onto), rubber band on the front brake, then lift with the legs and the left handlebar. Worked a treat!
I've lifted in mud before, it's not idea, but also wasn't much of a problem. Glad you could do it without unloading. Strap sounds like a good idea.

My off road was on 15 Mile Creek Road up at Green Ridge State Forrest. Top of the mountain, just riding across a simple looking shallow mud section. Can't explain it, bike just started a wide slide to the right. I was positive it was going down, I put my foot down once to keep it up and it stayed up much to my surprise. I ended up off the right side of the road after spinning approximately 270 degrees. Not a huge deal since there was no drop off there, but it was my second bad incident of the day and I decided I should go home after that. I'll admit it does shake me a little when I think about the muddy sections I've ridden along a 50' cliff straight down to the river.

Glad you're still safe. I believe you're rapidly closing in on one year on the road. It's been fun following you. Thanks for keeping us informed.
 

dcstrom

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Another 100 miles of gorgeous dirt backroad today. I was glad I waited a day for the road to dry out... left Huancabamba this morning with people telling me the road was "peligroso" (dangerous), so I was interested to see what it was like. It was still pretty sloppy in parts. I've found the Tenere will get through the muddy bits ok (even with the unsuitable tires) if you can just keep the wheels in line, give it a whiff of throttle, and let it chug through. I did fall down again though. Near the end of the dirt, there was a water truck that had just watered down part of the road. That bit was like ice! The back end just came around... no problem though, just stepped off (getting good at that!). I had helpers this time to get the bike up.

OK, as Dirt Dad has had no problem pointing out in the past, I don't have a good record with water crossings. I drowned my Vee a few years ago, and, way back, my R90/6, twice. So suffice to say I've been a bit tentative about water crossings on the S10.

Today was what I thought was the first serious water crossing of the trip. Not so serious after all, went pretty easily in the end. I set up the camera to video proceedings, just in case I went belly-up. The problem with these things is that the hidden boulders can kick your front wheel in any direction, so a bit of luck is required. I had some... There's a big boulder poking above the water in the foreground, I was aiming for the right of that. This was the route I'd scoped out earlier. Instead I ended up going to the left of it - lucky that side was clear, just a bit deeper than my chosen path.

It wasn't that hard, but it was a confidence builder I needed. There were more than 15 water crossings today, most of them small, but a couple of them deeper, but not as long, as this one.


river crossing in Peru on a Super Tenere
 

Dirt_Dad

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dcstrom said:
I don't have a good record with water crossings.
You made it look easy. I'm with you on the hidden danger thing. It's a lousy place to be picking up a bike.
 

tpak

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Trevor, don't want to hijack your RR but I a few questions for you about the Jesse's since you have been on the road with them for 6 months, that makes you the resident expert with them on this bike :) I know you have dropped it on the Jesse's a few times and they are bombproof but:

1) How is living with them every day?
2) Do you love or hate the outboard hinge? I am looking at these, the HT's and the TT's. Not sure which way to go. I can't get my mind around they way these and the HT's are hinged.
3) Do you/did you find yourself adjusting them front to back?
4) How is the space and what size did you end up with? The muffler side looks narrow to me.

Thanks and hope you are having a ball!
 

dcstrom

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tpak said:
Trevor, don't want to hijack your RR but I a few questions for you about the Jesse's since you have been on the road with them for 6 months, that makes you the resident expert with them on this bike :) I know you have dropped it on the Jesse's a few times and they are bombproof but:

1) How is living with them every day?
2) Do you love or hate the outboard hinge? I am looking at these, the HT's and the TT's. Not sure which way to go. I can't get my mind around they way these and the HT's are hinged.
3) Do you/did you find yourself adjusting them front to back?
4) How is the space and what size did you end up with? The muffler side looks narrow to me.

Thanks and hope you are having a ball!
Yeah, time flies - it's actually almost 11 months!

The Jesse's have taken some abuse, and come back for more. One time I dropped the bike on a curb, and the bag/rack took almost the full impact. Another time I didn't do the clamp up correctly and a bag fell off and slid down the road at 40mph. Came out of it with only scratches.

1. Easy to live with, just wish they were a bit easier to get on and off. The main problem is that you have to partially unpack them to undo the crank handle. I tend to leave them on the bike most of the time.
2. To my surprise the outboard hinge will hold whatever weight you have in the lid (in my case probably 6 lbs) in whatever position you set it. It thought the hinges would wear after a while and the lid would start to "flop", but not so far. It's handy sometimes, and is definitely no irritant. I had HT bags with the separate lid on my Strom, and one time forgot to do the latches - and the lid flew of going down the highway. Lucky it didn't hit my mate riding behind, So there are pros and cons to both.
3. I like the adjusment - solo, move the weight forward, or with a passenger, move it back to make room for legs.
4. I got the Odyssey, which IIRC are 95 litres- compared to Yamaha bags at 64 litres, or the Touratech which are 80-something I think. Yes left bag is narrower, but still, it's total capacity that's important.

For me the biggest single selling point is the width. They are the narrowest of any bags out there of equivalent (or sometimes less) capacity. The Touratechs are some of the widest.

My only real complaint is the finish on the racks. The first set were rusting in a number of places after only 2 months, I sent them back thinking they were probably part of a bad batch, but the second set was just the same and now I've had paint flaking off in large chunks. I just hit it with a brush and some anti-rust paint. Looks like crap but bags are on all the time so it doesn't matter. I'll get them refinished one day. Just a bit disappointing for premium gear.

Hope that helps!

Trevor
 

tpak

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dcstrom said:
Yeah, time flies - it's actually almost 11 months!
<snip>
Wow! Doesn't seem like it but wow! That is excellent!

The info helps a lot. I have been kicking back and forth between the HT, TT, and Jesse's. It's really down to the HT and Jesse's b/c as you point out, the TT are wide, not to mention the price. Anyhow, that is a different thread so carry on and thanks for the info!

Stay safe!
 

tubebender

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Hey Trevor,

How are you? I see you made to Lima. Hitchhikers Hostel?
Give us an update.
 

dcstrom

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tubebender

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dcstrom said:
Hitchhikers in Lima - how did you guess.
I check your SPOT page to see where you are and since the map is powered by Google, I can somtimes get street views of your surrondings.
Usually your last breadcrumb is where you're staying.

Man, some of the roads you have taken are incredibly twisty!

Stay safe!
 
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