I measured the clearance depth at 1.33 inches. I found a 1-3/4" (44mm) socket at Autozone, not "impact rated" and its 3/4" drive. I need to go back and measure depth.Hei Bart,
one question as i have now acquired the bike (it's mid 2014 ES)
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and i'm planning (among the others) for the forks complete maintenance this winter...
I have looked at the forks top caps (the ones where the plug is connected) and those have a really HUGE 44mm hex bolt that needs to be handled...somehow
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May i ask what tool did you use to take them off and then torque them back at 23 Nm ?
I was thinking of a hex key for impact driver
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or so but i'm not sure the cap will fit in the dome of the bit tbh
Thanks in advance !
Davide
So the top of the oil is 148mm from the top of the tube (with no compression)? (Did spell check alter your wording?)Fill depth shall quote 148 mm
I use a large siringe with a tube attached to a plate i made myself...
That is an option. I'm perf aware of the oring.View attachment 60564
There is no need to worry about torque on the cap. There is an o-ring under the cap that seals. Just snug it up hand tight and you are good.
Just loosen the upper triple bolts before loosening the caps.
Generally these oil level specs are with the spring removed and the fork tubes completely collapsed/compressed. If you filled it that high with the legs extended you would only have 148mm (~5.8”) travel before the fork would hydraulically lock. Yamaha specs the fork travel at 7.5”.So the top of the oil is 148mm from the top of the tube (with no compression)? (Did spell check alter your wording?)
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Thanks Man for the quotes and for the appreciation on the "new" bikeOcgeek, only just seen you post but it seems to have been answered already.
For the cap nut I just used a good quality adjustable wrench with tape on the jaw faces to protect the nut, it came loose very easily and as said above there is an o ring to seal the cap afterwards.
I think the damper rod is M10...but I normally just use a piece of wire with a hook on the end to raise the rod.
The holding tool I made had a 20mm wide slot (just been out to the garage to measure it).
I always take oil/air gaps dimensions as a guide, a bigger air gap will give a slightly softer ride and vice versa.
Nice looking bike
That is 100% correct and excellent advice. An adjustable wrench will work just fine. Working on the ES suspension is beyond my paygrade. I'm dropping off my whole bike at Race Tech at suspension rebuild time. I have rebuilt forks before and it's a nasty dirty job.View attachment 60564
There is no need to worry about torque on the cap. There is an o-ring under the cap that seals. Just snug it up hand tight and you are good.
Just loosen the upper triple bolts before loosening the caps.