Cooked Headlamp Harness

[Dallara]

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This is just offered up as an FYI and so you guys can check your own bikes...

Got a new rear Tourance EXP mounted yesterday - after getting a wonderful 5,800 miles out of the original I should note - and on the way home from the dealer I pulled up at a traffic light and noticed my bike's reflection in the tailgate of the Suburban in front of me... But unfortunately the reflection showed my right-side headlamp was out. "No problem" I thought, "Just a burnt out H-7 bulb, and I got some of those at home." Reason I had some spares at home, you might ask? Well, the right-side bulb is the one that burnt out on me during my trip home from Alabama.

Anyway, got home, pulled the round cover from behind the right-side headlamp bulb and went to pull the headlamp plug... And low and behold, the plug sort of comes apart in my hand, obviously badly damaged by too much heat. It's then I also notice that the light-blue wire is also scorched, with even some of the insulation cooked completely away. I pulled the bulb and oddly enough it looked fine. I also pulled the left-side headlamp bulb cover, plug, and bulb... Everything on the left-side looked fine, and I even swapped the bulbs back and forth, and both bulbs were 100% functional. The headlamp beam shutters work fine on both sides, as do both the marker lamps adjacent to the headlamps. Only real worry to me is that even the left-side headlamp plug and harness seems to run awfully hot, and this is with plain, ol', stock 55-watt Phillips bulbs... And when I say hot, I mean *HOT*!

The leads and plug are not very hot initially, but within a minute or two the headlamp bulb plug and wiring get plenty toasty...

You might want to check yours.

I contacted my dealer, and he is placing a call to Yamaha to check if there have been any other reports of similar problems. He also wants me to bring it in ASAP so they can check out the rest of the electrics and get me a new headlamp harness.

I should add I have checked everything I can externally, and there is no evidence of any problems elsewhere, and the switches, fuse box, etc. are all fine and appear to be operating cool and at design temperatures. It just seems to be that final headlamp harness is where the problem lies, but we'll see, and I'll update this thread as I have more info.

Meantime, I would recommend that you check your headlamp harness, plugs, etc. and their operating temp. I would also recommend sticking with stock wattage bulbs if you have a choice...

Again, this is just an FYI.

Dallara



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[jajpko]

.... This is just offered up as an FYI and so you guys can check your own bikes...


Meantime, I would recommend that you check your headlamp harness, plugs, etc. and their operating temp. I would also recommend sticking with stock wattage bulbs if you have a choice...

Again, this is just an FYI ....

Thanks for the heads up.. Will check it today.

 

[Fintenere]

.... This is just offered up as an FYI and so you guys can check your own bikes ... Again, this is just an FYI .....

I noticed the same problem. Even the same side. It was in June and about the same miles (10000 kms).

 

[jajpko]

I checked mine(2660 mi.), and everything looked good. Made sure the connection was on good. I will keep an eye on it.

 

[Tremor38]

I checked mine(2660 mi.), and everything looked good. Made sure the connection was on good. I will keep an eye on it.

I ran mine for about 10-15 min and they didn't get past being just warm. That said, the wiring and connectors don't look very beefy, and actually look kind of fragile. These skimpy connectors and wiring seem to be inconsistent with the way the rest of the bike is built. This is definitely something to keep an eye on.

 

[GrahamD]

My guess is it's the connector, The "telephone" wiring in the Strom has never been a problem apart from the voltage drop.

Suzuki do it too, and don't have an issue except with some connectors, like the Green one on SV650's

My headlights run 11V not 12.8, so they last a long time. :

Anyway, you already have everyone telling you how porky it is, no need to add another few kilo's.

 

[biting_point]

well, i had the same problem on my right side connector too..

i dismissed it as i changed to philips diamond vision (same wattage), bought it from a online seller, so didnt bother to claim from him..

my connecter was slightly melted, the bulb's filament was broken and there's a slight ship at the tip, i did proper installations..

let's see if there's more cases like this..

i'm planning to buy a new harness to try.. as the headlight harness from the OEM parts stores looks to be separated from the main harness..!!

 

[HoebSTer]

I may have to check this out as well like many. I wonder if the Piaa's which say they draw 55w, yet put off 100w of light are truely only drawing 55w?

 

[Tremor38]

My guess is it's the connector, The "telephone" wiring in the Strom has never been a problem apart from the voltage drop.

Suzuki do it too, and don't have an issue except with some connectors, like the Green one on SV650's

My headlights run 11V not 12.8, so they last a long time. :

Anyway, you already have everyone telling you how porky it is, no need to add another few kilo's.

You are most likely spot-on with your take on the connectors. They definitely look to be the weakest link. I'm thinking Eastern Beaver might have the parts to remedy this.

 

[tomatocity]

Can't remember the member but he just did a 3,800 ride report with part of it in Colorado. He lost his right headlight and broke a front fender. Seems like the right headlight is a problem. Has anyone personally reported it to Yamaha? It might mean more than if a dealership reports the problem.

 

[colorider]

Can't remember the member but he just did a 3,800 ride report with part of it in Colorado. He lost his right headlight and broke a front fender. Seems like the right headlight is a problem. Has anyone personally reported it to Yamaha? It might mean more than if a dealership reports the problem.

That would be Tiger_one.

 

[roy]

I pulled my covers and inspected my plugs on the lights. It all looked okay no signs of excessive heat yet at 5200 miles. I don't run them on high beam much unless in downtown traffic. I will keep an eye on this.

 

[Tremor38]

I pulled my covers and inspected my plugs on the lights. It all looked okay no signs of excessive heat yet at 5200 miles. I don't run them on high beam much unless in downtown traffic. I will keep an eye on this.

High beam just opens a shutter via a solenoid, which uses its own set of wires, so that shouldn't make a difference.

 

[3putt]

That would be Tiger_one.

Just back from my trip from Arkansas this weekend and noticed my right light was out again. On pulling the connector, it crumbled in my fingers at one end (ground side) very melted and fried. The connector seemed okay, but on pulling the light assembly and going to the workbench found that the ohm meter showed no connection. I cut the wire and spliced in another blade connector. Working fine now. I ordered another cord assembly. I will call my dealer and inform them, plus when I get the new cord in, I will take the old one to them to inspect and tell Yamaha.

I had my first problem from riding on some very rough offroad which may have jarred the connector loose at the bulb, thus causing the heat build up.

I would advise using a ligher connector so it would not be prone to so much vibration damage, course I broke my fender also, so took some pretty hard hits up there. Hoping my new .95 springs will help also.

Thanks to Tomatocity for bringing this thread to my attention. I thought I was the only one for this to happen.

 

[Dallara]

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Here's perhaps a possible solution...

http://www.rallylights.com/detail.aspx?ID=4945

Specifically the CPH7CFC-H7 ceramic plug that looks like this...

Just a thought, and I have done quite a bit of business with these folks in the past, and they are a good, reputable bunch.

Dallara




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[roy]

High beam just opens a shutter via a solenoid, which uses its own set of wires, so that shouldn't make a difference.

I was not suggesting this was the probable cause. Only that more heat may be generated from them on high.

I know nothing about electrical stuff and don't claim to.

 

[Fintenere]

So this seems to be quite common problem and also I thought that mine was the only one.
This problem is not any more an exception there must be some explanation.
Perhaps a bad/cheap wire harness?
I hope Yamaha will resolve and fix it.
I have had another miserable problem too.
Sometimes the idle speed revs were 800 sometimes 3500 and sometimes something between these.
The throttle body with all sensors has been changed but after about 4000 kms it happened again, revs were 800.
Maybe these problems have something common. The wire harness?
If someone has had same kind of idle speed problem please start a new thread.
By the way here in Finland Tenere's price is 21300€ (about 29000$).

 

[Tremor38]

Sometimes the idle speed revs were 800 sometimes 3500 and sometimes something between these.
The throttle body with all sensors has been changed but after about 4000 kms it happened again, revs were 800.
Maybe these problems have something common. The wire harness?

Wow, that's the first I've heard of anyone having that problem. Possibly the wiring or an ECU? I hope they find a solution for you soon.

 

[stevepsd]

I was not suggesting this was the probable cause. Only that more heat may be generated from them on high.

I know nothing about electrical stuff and don't claim to.

The bulbs only have one filament (not a low & high like most), so it is on all the time, drawing the same amount of current (55watts or so per bulb).

So how do you get 'high beam' & 'low beam' you ask? There is literally a 'shutter' in the headlight housing and when on 'low beam' the shutter is deployed across the beam 'cutting out' what would be the 'high beam' light pattern. When you flip the headlights to 'high beam' the shutter moves out of the way to allow all the light to project down the road. You can hear the 'shutter' move if you listen closely.

 

[roy]

The bulbs only have one filament (not a low & high like most), so it is on all the time, drawing the same amount of current (55watts or so per bulb).

So how do you get 'high beam' & 'low beam' you ask? There is literally a 'shutter' in the headlight housing and when on 'low beam' the shutter is deployed across the beam 'cutting out' what would be the 'high beam' light pattern. When you flip the headlights to 'high beam' the shutter moves out of the way to allow all the light to project down the road. You can hear the 'shutter' move if you listen closely.

okay this is ridiculousl, I said clearly I did not know what or why the headlight wire melted. Please forget I ever mentioned HIGH beam : Damn just forget I ever commented on this matter to begin with.; :'(

And I do not, I repeat, I do not need a essay on how the headlights work as I own a service manual. ::009::

Carry on..... ::002::