FALCONSEYE
Member
Sorry, a total noob here. I killed the battery. I attached a battery tender. It has been sitting like that for more than 24hours. There is still no juice. What am I doing wrong?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
charging battery
- Thread starter FALCONSEYE
- Start date
Put a battery charger on it. A maintainer doesn't have the horsepower needed to bring back a dead battery.
Wanderer
New Member
Howdy,
::026:: I believe about 1 amp charger.
Later,
Norm
::026:: I believe about 1 amp charger.
Later,
Norm
Since you're a "total noob".....what is the BT showing during charging (i.e., what are the lights doing)? What does "still no juice" mean? The BT won't charge the battery? The bike won't turn over? Have you tried jumping the bike? (I ask these questions because I have a friend who managed to kill two batteries last winter by failing to monitor how he had the BT's hooked up. One was reversed and the other he didn't have a good connection.)
As has been said, a BT often won't bring back a battery that has been sitting dead for any length of time. A higher-current battery charger might (or might not), or you can sometimes "trick" a BT to start charging a battery that isn't showing enough charge to initialize. But, for the most part, its a fool's errand to start going to extraordinary measures to resurrect a seriously discharged/old battery - just replace it. Batteries are like tires, oil, and filters..... consumables.
- Mark
As has been said, a BT often won't bring back a battery that has been sitting dead for any length of time. A higher-current battery charger might (or might not), or you can sometimes "trick" a BT to start charging a battery that isn't showing enough charge to initialize. But, for the most part, its a fool's errand to start going to extraordinary measures to resurrect a seriously discharged/old battery - just replace it. Batteries are like tires, oil, and filters..... consumables.
- Mark
FALCONSEYE
Member
Thank you! I will try to jump the bike. As you mentioned, batttery tender is not strong enough. Battery tender has solid orange, which means charging. It didn't go green yet. I do not see any lights come on the bike when I turn the ignition on.
Will it be ok to use my SUV (vw touareg) as a donor? I do not want to damage any circuits. The bike is under warranty.
Will it be ok to use my SUV (vw touareg) as a donor? I do not want to damage any circuits. The bike is under warranty.
If the battery is very discharged, the BT may take a day or two.... you might want to just leave it alone for awhile and see what happens.FALCONSEYE said:
Any 12V vehicle is fine. Typically, a car battery has so much extra capacity, it is not necessary to have the engine running like you typically do car to car. Just make damn sure to hook things up correctly.
Good luck,
- Mark
DO NOT RUN THE CAR WHEN JUMPING A BIKE!
Some cars charge at a higher voltage than some bike regulators can handle. It's not worth finding out if your combination is "ok" or not.
A decent car battery will have plenty of CCA to crank the bike over.
ac
Some cars charge at a higher voltage than some bike regulators can handle. It's not worth finding out if your combination is "ok" or not.
A decent car battery will have plenty of CCA to crank the bike over.
ac
I'd like to see specific examples of this. Urban legend in my book.avc8130 said:
That being said, yes, there is no reason you need to have the car running - a car battery has plenty of oomph to start a bike even with the extra drag of jumper cables.
- Mark
I have personally witnessed it. I sold an sv650 to a guy. He left the bike in Park overnight and of course the battery drained. Then he proceeded to jump it off a running car and it fried the regulator rectifier.
Most cars charge at 14v plus. Most bikes vary much more and steady state charge around 13.5v.
Ac
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Most cars charge at 14v plus. Most bikes vary much more and steady state charge around 13.5v.
Ac
Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Jumped my S10 with a running F350 Diesel late at night in a Mexican Food parking lot.
It might have been risky, but the S10's starter was ecstatic with boost!
It might have been risky, but the S10's starter was ecstatic with boost!
FALCONSEYE
Member
The battery tender worked. The bike started this morning.
Thanks everybody.
Thanks everybody.
Ya and that $1000 ecu could just as easily been un-ecstatic with the boost, but beings that it worked, you can't knock sucess. Not worth a roll of the dice to me.snakebitten said:
Actually, interestingly enough, the "electronics" are usually ok with the extra voltage. It's the R/R that can't handle it. It attempts to shunt off that extra power and overheats and dies, sacrificing itself for the good of the rest.OldRider said:
Most likely, those who have "successfully" jumped their bikes off running cars didn't keep the cables hooked up much after the bike started. It takes time to fry the R/R with the car setup, how much depends on the whole combination.
Again, a practice best avoided as it is completely unnecessary.
ac
I agree 100%. Any car battery that's charged up will spin an S10 over with ease, so there's no reason to have the car engine running and take a chance on something bad happening.avc8130 said:
If bikes "vary much more" than they should be more tolerant of charging voltages on a car bus, not less. Haven't checked the S10, but immediately after starting (especially if the battery is at all low), most bikes' bus voltage is 14.5+ to charge the battery. As are battery chargers, even trickle chargers. I'll still maintain that a car's and bike's systems are basically regulated to the same general bus voltages as they both are spec'ed to be 12V systems. We'll have to agree to disagree on this point. In any event, I do agree that there is seldom any need to start a car when doing a jump.avc8130 said:
- Mark
I didn't say it was a good idea or that it was safe. Just said what I did that night. 
It was dark and the trucks headlights were my only light. And I didn't even attach the positive cable to my battery. Just gave it a good touch and hit the starter button. Fired right up and I pulled the cable away. Probably no more than 2 or 3 seconds.
Maybe I WAS lucky. But nothing new about that! I have 55 years of it.
It was dark and the trucks headlights were my only light. And I didn't even attach the positive cable to my battery. Just gave it a good touch and hit the starter button. Fired right up and I pulled the cable away. Probably no more than 2 or 3 seconds.
Maybe I WAS lucky. But nothing new about that! I have 55 years of it.
Mark,markjenn said:
Most bikes don't vary voltage immediately after charging. They just aren't setup like this. Instead they have an AC stator that puts out differing voltage based on RPM. That source is then rectified and regulated by the regulator rectifier. Most bikes don't make peak charging at idle. The regulator/rectifier in most bikes (S10 included) is not "smart". It tries to make the best of its situation. It allows the voltage to go as high as it is designed to, and then kills the rest. Killing the rest is what strains the R/R.
Per the service manual, the S10 charges at 14V at 5k rpm.
Most car alternators charge at 14.5V, some spiking up to 15.3V.
The bike reg/rect setup is designed to work along with the normal loads of the motorcycle (headlight/fuel pump/etc).
What happens when a car is left running AND the bike starts and continues to run, is that the R/R must shed off ALL of the energy produced by the bike's onboard charging system since the car has its needs more than covered.
I agree with you, that it is UNLIKELY that simply JUMPING the bike with a running car will cause an issue.
BUT
Do NOT leave the car connected with the bike running.
You CAN safely leave the car running connected to the bike...IF the bike is NOT running.
ac
The whole premise of this is that you believe a car's electrical system is regulated to a much higher voltage than a bike's. I simply don't believe this is true. As I said , agree to disagree.
- Mark
- Mark