Brake Bleeding Question

[Borghi]

I installed the RideON ADV longer brake and clutch lines last weekend and did not bleed the lines. I added fluid slowly while pumping the brake and clutch levers until all bubbles were removed from the reservoir. I then put the covers on and pumped levers a few more times, took covers off and pumped again and looked for bubbles (none came up). The clutch and rear brake feel fine, but the front brake lever feels mushy. The brakes work, but they are not what they are supposed to be (I compared the feel with a new Tenere at the dealer). I assume that I need to bleed the front brakes. I've done this before on a non ABS bike no problem. Anything I need to do or be aware of to do this on the S10? Any tips or suggestions are appreciated!!!

 

[HoebSTer]

With the linked system it is good to start with the left front caliper bleeding until no bubbles come out of the zerk into your tube, then jump over to the right front caliper repeat process, the do the back brake!!! I don't know how just watching bubbles in the reservoir is enough to bleed the brakes? Maybe I am going to now learn something new!!!

 

[Borghi]

The reason I didn't bleed brakes was because I read some other posts here stating that it was unnecessary when changing the brake/clutch lines. I had never heard of the procedure, but according to others, it worked when they changed over their brake and clutch lines.

 

[jajpko]

The reason I didn't bleed brakes was because I read some other posts here stating that it was unnecessary when changing the brake/clutch lines. I had never heard of the procedure, but according to others, it worked when they changed over their brake and clutch lines.

I also tapped the lines as I slowly squeezed the lever. What you may want to try, is tie the lever back to the grip and let set over night.
This may let any air bubble to rise into the reservoir. JMHO

 

[Borghi]

I did tap and wiggle the lines when I was squeezing the lever too!

 

[jajpko]

With the linked system it is good to start with the left front caliper bleeding until no bubbles come out of the zerk into your tube, then jump over to the right front caliper repeat process, the do the back brake!!! I don't know how just watching bubbles in the reservoir is enough to bleed the brakes? Maybe I am going to now learn something new!!!

When you change the lines, air has not been introduced to the system yet. After the lines are hooked up, just add fluid to the reservoir and slowly squeeze the lever and tap the line. the air will rise into the reservoir. When no bubbles are present the air should be gone. It does work, trust me.. ::025::

 

[Waspworks]

When you change the lines, air has not been introduced to the system yet. After the lines are hooked up, just add fluid to the reservoir and slowly squeeze the lever and tap the line. the air will rise into the reservoir. When no bubbles are present the air should be gone. It does work, trust me.. ::025::

Air HAS most definitely been introduced to the system.. The front brake line that has been installed does not go directly to the front brake. It feeds the ABS unit that distributes it to the front calipers.
This new line is full of a column of air that will be working its way through the system and collapsing each time you energize the brakes.
Follow the procedure outlines in the repair manual to correctly bleed the system.

Greg.

 

[jajpko]

Air HAS most definitely been introduced to the system.. The front brake line that has been installed does not go directly to the front brake. It feeds the ABS unit that distributes it to the front calipers.
This new line is full of a column of air that will be working its way through the system and collapsing each time you energize the brakes.
Follow the procedure outlines in the repair manual to correctly bleed the system.

Greg.

Actually the air is only in the short line that runs from the joint just below the dash. If you do this properly, you can evacuate the air without a full system bleed. I know, I have done it..

Cheers

 

[JonnyCinco]

what is in the lines prior to install??? a vacuum? Air has to be in the lines.

this is much like when people state they have N2 in their tires and no air....i simply ask if they got the tires installed in a N2 filled room. And if so, how many brain cells did they kill while doing it?

 

[jajpko]

what is in the lines prior to install??? a vacuum? Air has to be in the lines.

this is much like when people state they have N2 in their tires and no air....i simply ask if they got the tires installed in a N2 filled room. And if so, how many brain cells did they kill while doing it?

What I meant, air had not be introduced into the main system. I know that is a hard concept but just think about air being in the new line and not in the line it attached to. Now, as you add fluid in the reservoir, slowly squeeze the lever and tap the new line. The air will travel to the top.
Pretty simple..

 

[52edub]

I just did this line replacement and did what Jaxon suggested. My front brake lever feels exacty the same prior to the line extension work. Another suggestiong: squeeze the lever and using a clamp leave it squeezed overnight. This can allow any bubbles to go to the resevoir since it is the highest point on the system.

 

[JonnyCinco]

What I meant, air had not be introduced into the main system. I know that is a hard concept but just think about air being in the new line and not in the line it attached to. Now, as you add fluid in the reservoir, slowly squeeze the lever and tap the new line. The air will travel to the top.
Pretty simple..

now that makes more sense.

 

[Stray Goose]

I just installed the long brake & clutch lines and have used the procedure to get the air out of the newly installed lines. It worked well for the clutch, however, I have no more bubbles coming out in the brake resevoir, and still have no resistance on the brake lever.

Can someone give me the correct procedure from the manual to bleed the system?

Thanks

http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/Smileys/DarkB/cry.gif

 

[Karson]

It is for this reason I think I'm leaning towards just having my dealer do the install - I don't see why they wouldn't, but am speculating in my mind what excuses they might give for saying "no".

If this was a simple brake line system, no biggie. But I'd be doing this solo and have the feeling in the back of my head I'd f something up and have to limp/trailer it to the dealer to do right anyway...I dunno just my two cents.

But to offer any help - I attached the brake & clutch bleed portion of the service manual.

http://sdrv.ms/XODGWG

 

[CAMTEX]

I always gravity bleed brakes, hook a line to the bleeder and the pop master cylinder cap and let it drain through keeping the reservoir full. I have not tried it with the S10 but worked well on my Vmax.

 

[Stray Goose]

I got it fixed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The lines were free of air using the slow squeeze of the lever and tapping the line. The air that was trapped was in the master cylinder. I got it out by loosening the banjo bolt while I slowly squeezed the lever, then tightened the bolt as the lever reached bottom. Three times, and all the air was out!



::015::

 

[TreeMuncher]

Can someone give me the correct procedure from the manual to bleed the system?

Bleed sequence is RF, LF, Rear. I am assuming that you know how to bleed brakes by pumping them up and holding pressure.

I've been a mechanic for many years. The only way that is 100% effective on the motorcycles (as per my experience) is a combination of vacuum bleeding combined with pump&hold techniques. This is also a cleaner and neater approach using the vacuum container to catch the fluid. My Honda ST1300 was the worst and most difficult bike to bleed brakes on. The Tenere, in comparison is fast and easy to bleed.

For the cost of the fluid and the ease of bleeding, there is no valid excuse not to bleed your brakes properly after working on the hydraulic brake system.

It is my opinion that many of us have had rapid rear brake wear due to air in the brake system. While my rear pads lasted 20k miles, I was noticing a decline in fuel economy and a hot rear disk even when the brakes were not touched at all. Full disassembly of the rear caliper did not solve the problems, even after bleeding the rear lines. Only after bleeding the entire brake system did the problem with the rear caliper get corrected. It is now free wheeling again with no drag as it should be.

It should be remembered that each system (front and rear) interacts with the other. The only way to get things working 100% is to bleed the entire system. Longest lines first (the RF is furthest from the MC) and then working progressively to the shortest line. Again, the sequence is RF, LF and then Rear. Remember, brake fluid is cheaper than problems on the road. Change it, bleed it properly and life is generally more problem free if this is done correctly.

 

[Toyamaha]

Hello Stay Goose i try what you mention and yes i had some bubbles that came out. I did the right way and tighten the bolt before the lever reach bottom and after maybe 5 6 times my brake seem to be also not as tight as it was before.

 

[stutrump]

I too had many problems with the brakes on my ST1300....thats why I sold it...Great engine in that bike but the brakes were...PANTS..shame on Honda. Now though I have my S10 with MUCH better brakes and much easier to bleed. Happy Days!

 

[Ramseybella]

Bleed sequence is RF, LF, Rear. I am assuming that you know how to bleed brakes by pumping them up and holding pressure.

I've been a mechanic for many years. The only way that is 100% effective on the motorcycles (as per my experience) is a combination of vacuum bleeding combined with pump&hold techniques. This is also a cleaner and neater approach using the vacuum container to catch the fluid. My Honda ST1300 was the worst and most difficult bike to bleed brakes on. The Tenere, in comparison is fast and easy to bleed.

For the cost of the fluid and the ease of bleeding, there is no valid excuse not to bleed your brakes properly after working on the hydraulic brake system.

It is my opinion that many of us have had rapid rear brake wear due to air in the brake system. While my rear pads lasted 20k miles, I was noticing a decline in fuel economy and a hot rear disk even when the brakes were not touched at all. Full disassembly of the rear caliper did not solve the problems, even after bleeding the rear lines. Only after bleeding the entire brake system did the problem with the rear caliper get corrected. It is now free wheeling again with no drag as it should be.

It should be remembered that each system (front and rear) interacts with the other. The only way to get things working 100% is to bleed the entire system. Longest lines first (the RF is furthest from the MC) and then working progressively to the shortest line. Again, the sequence is RF, LF and then Rear. Remember, brake fluid is cheaper than problems on the road. Change it, bleed it properly and life is generally more problem free if this is done correctly.

::026::
TreeMuncher,

You beat me to it no big deal bleeding breaks I use a Vacuum pump from Harbor Fright the fluid is cheap and it keep your lines clean.
I did my breaks before winter every year on my Tiger 1050.
I am going to have to do this on my ST with the 21" front wheel and raised fender the break line is now under the fender I have an extended line so I can run it over the top.