Bleed sequence is RF, LF, Rear. I am assuming that you know how to bleed brakes by pumping them up and holding pressure.
I've been a mechanic for many years. The only way that is 100% effective on the motorcycles (as per my experience) is a combination of vacuum bleeding combined with pump&hold techniques. This is also a cleaner and neater approach using the vacuum container to catch the fluid. My Honda ST1300 was the worst and most difficult bike to bleed brakes on. The Tenere, in comparison is fast and easy to bleed.
For the cost of the fluid and the ease of bleeding, there is no valid excuse not to bleed your brakes properly after working on the hydraulic brake system.
It is my opinion that many of us have had rapid rear brake wear due to air in the brake system. While my rear pads lasted 20k miles, I was noticing a decline in fuel economy and a hot rear disk even when the brakes were not touched at all. Full disassembly of the rear caliper did not solve the problems, even after bleeding the rear lines. Only after bleeding the entire brake system did the problem with the rear caliper get corrected. It is now free wheeling again with no drag as it should be.
It should be remembered that each system (front and rear) interacts with the other. The only way to get things working 100% is to bleed the entire system. Longest lines first (the RF is furthest from the MC) and then working progressively to the shortest line. Again, the sequence is RF, LF and then Rear. Remember, brake fluid is cheaper than problems on the road. Change it, bleed it properly and life is generally more problem free if this is done correctly.