Aux light plug?

[Firefight911]

That must have been a while ago!! > >

All Cannon plug pins are only crimped (at least on USN & USMC aircraft). Never any solder. Solder creates a stress point within the wire at the point where the solder ends (it is wicked up into the wire itself by the capillary action of the strands of wire) if the solder is wicked up beyond the mechanical crimp (which is almost impossible to completely prevent - unless done by machine).

Yup! Like RF-4B Phantoms from VMFP-3 long ago!! DOH!!

My field of endeavor was within the "I" level repair of all the black box electronics of the above mentioned F-4s along with F-18, A-4, A-6, EA-6B, AV-8B, C-130 (pre upgrade to the flight avionics - C-12 compass system stuff), and several others. I work as an aviation electrical instrument systems tech.

There was a lot of solder joints inside the myriad of "boxes". You should have seen the CADC from the F-4!!! A maze of eccentric cams, fingers, springs, and all sorts of ooooollllllddddddd stuff like that....and lots of solder connections.

You are correct, never a solder canon plug connection in anything.

 

[Tremor38]

Yup! Like RF-4B Phantoms from VMFP-3 long ago!! DOH!!

My field of endeavor was within the "I" level repair of all the black box electronics of the above mentioned F-4s along with F-18, A-4, A-6, EA-6B, AV-8B, C-130 (pre upgrade to the flight avionics - C-12 compass system stuff), and several others. I work as an aviation electrical instrument systems tech.

There was a lot of solder joints inside the myriad of "boxes". You should have seen the CADC from the F-4!!! A maze of eccentric cams, fingers, springs, and all sorts of ooooollllllddddddd stuff like that....and lots of solder connections.

You are correct, never a solder canon plug connection in anything.

Yessir, did some time at I level myself. Solder on PC boards is a whole different story and when done right will last a looooooong time!

For wiring on bikes, if anyone has not tried or is unfamiliar with Posi Lock and Posi Tap connectors, you owe it to yourself to gave them a try (not affiliated to me).

Below link is a Web Bike World article that does a nice job of explaining about them:


http://www.webbikeworld.com/Reviewed-motorcycle-products/posi-lock/posi-lock-mini-connectors/

 

[stevepsd]

There was a lot of solder joints inside the myriad of "boxes". You should have seen the CADC from the F-4!!! A maze of eccentric cams, fingers, springs, and all sorts of ooooollllllddddddd stuff like that....and lots of solder connections.

Those CADC's (Central Air Data Computer) were 'Analog' computers...not much digital back then! Amazing how they work...bet alot of kids coming out of Computer Engineering schools (Berkley,Stanford, etc) wouln't have a clue about how these computers work! We still had them on the N models that we converted into QF-4's.

Solder inside boxes/circuit cards... good. External wiring...bad.

 

[freeflow]

Cleaner that getting the pins for the existing connector from Eastern Beaver and just plugging it in? :-\

ummm, NO...because, thanks to this thread, that is EXACTLY what I did....

 

[Tremor38]

ummm, NO...because, thanks to this thread, that is EXACTLY what I did....

Good on ya! ::012::

 

[freeflow]

Good on ya! ::012::

ok...what did I do now? I wired in an aux powerlet for heated vest....I put the outlet in a nice spot on the left side in the gap between the tank and the fram using one of the holes for crash bars.... I wired up 2 wires to go to the heated grip 4 wire plug pigtail. I checked voltage and I had 12.6 from 2 wire in th eplug...I thin one was blue which was positive. the outlet worked fine and I had power for a littel bit...but for some reason, now I don't... ::010:: I checked all fuses, all seem ok.....bike starts and runs fine. there was a weird issue I thought for a bit that it didn;t turn off with the key, but I don't know WTF was going on there...my key ring was keeping the key from turning all the way off when I flipped it off.


so,,,I am seeking some input...I had power and all was well....but one brief instant later, I don't...where is the fuse for the 4 wire heated grip plug pigtail??....and how many amps is that pigtail good for?....

 

[S_Palmer]

I can't tell for sure but check your headlights, one of those wires runs off the headlight fuse.

 

[Tremor38]

ok...what did I do now? I wired in an aux powerlet for heated vest....I put the outlet in a nice spot on the left side in the gap between the tank and the fram using one of the holes for crash bars.... I wired up 2 wires to go to the heated grip 4 wire plug pigtail. I checked voltage and I had 12.6 from 2 wire in th eplug...I thin one was blue which was positive. the outlet worked fine and I had power for a littel bit...but for some reason, now I don't... ::010:: I checked all fuses, all seem ok.....bike starts and runs fine. there was a weird issue I thought for a bit that it didn;t turn off with the key, but I don't know WTF was going on there...my key ring was keeping the key from turning all the way off when I flipped it off.


so,,,I am seeking some input...I had power and all was well....but one brief instant later, I don't...where is the fuse for the 4 wire heated grip plug pigtail??....and how many amps is that pigtail good for?....

Not sure I would come directly off the heated grip plug for that, as heated grips don't draw anywhere near the current a heated vest will.

Here are the wires at the plug and where they go:

Blue/black wire goes to the "signaling system" fuse (brake lights and horn) and has power with the key in the 'on' position. Black/green wire goes to the headlight fuse and is energized when the headlights are on. Light green/white wire goes to the ECU. Black is ground (duh!). Looks like Yamaha intended the grips to share loads with other items, because they typically draw only about 2.5A. heated gear would easily be double to triple that load.

The accessory lights connector (Three Prong) has a Red/white wire with a dedicated fuse that can more than handle your heated gear, but it's always on, so you might want to rig that through a relay. There is also the fuse box route. Eastern Beaver does those prefab to hook staight to your OEM connector if you want to avoid the extra trials.

 

[freeflow]

I'm admitting I am not that good at electrical stuff...but I am capable of learning...and that I did.....thank you.


yeah, after reviewing heated gear power needs, I swapped the male terminals from the 4 prong to the 3 prong plug to the red and black, non-switched wires. and the heated grips are to the blue/black and black wires of the 4 prong plug.

done.

 

[Bundu]

I think that would be the "O/P (Option) fuse" which is 20A (fuse no. 12 below)

 

[Tremor38]

Yup! Ignition, ABS, Headlight and Radiator fan are the other 20A fuses. Yamaha has some funny shorthand don't they. I'd say something like ACC LT would be better :-\

 

[freeflow]

I ended up putting one powerlet in the gap between the tank and frame. I used the factory bolt hole for the crash bar mount... it works out fine for me so far....

 

[colorider]

I ended up putting one powerlet in the gap between the tank and frame. I used the factory bolt hole for the crash bar mount... it works out fine for me so far.....

Nice clean looking install!!

 

[tomatocity]

Very nice. I like it. If in use, what about leg clearance?

 

[snakebasket]

Re: heated grip / light plugs?

Hi, new to this forum so please be patient!

I have bought an FJR heated grip kit for my S10 , as they are avaialble new here in Uk for £100, only problem is the instructions are in Japanese!

These come with a fused positive cable, so can I just connect the positive and negative directly to the heated grip plug without any need for wiring in a relay?

I have a pair of lights I removed from my tiger, both 55 watt, can I wire them the same, i.e direct to the S10 connector plug, or do I use the S10 feed to trigger a relay, and if I use a switch does this go on the trigger feed to the relay? On my Tiger, I had the light relay triggered by the side/running light and switched on this feed.

I hope this makes sense?


Cheers, Steve

 

[YamaPA]

Eastern Beaver has $20. minimum order. Who wants the 3 and 4 position connectors? I want to order a 3 position, but will order more if someone else wants some.

Did you ever go ahead with the 3 or 4 prong plug purchase? Eastern Beaver is the only place I have found that seems to sell them. Electrical Connection has connectors, but I didnt find the ones for the Yamaha S10.

 

[titsken]

The accessory lights connector (Three Prong) has a Red/white wire with a dedicated fuse that can more than handle your heated gear, but it's always on, so you might want to rig that through a relay. There is also the fuse box route. Eastern Beaver does those prefab to hook staight to your OEM connector if you want to avoid the extra trials.

The accessory lights connector is only hot when engine is on. Eastern Beaver uses this connector to get the signal for his PC-8 fuse block. And I have one so I'm sure it is working.

 

[Tremor38]

The accessory lights connector is only hot when engine is on. Eastern Beaver uses this connector to get the signal for his PC-8 fuse block. And I have one so I'm sure it is working.

Read what I wrote one more time. The accessory connector has three wires. The Red and white wire is on all of the time. Take a meter to it or read the schematic if you want proof. The Brown wire is on only when the ignition is on. I have the Eastern Beaver PC-8. It uses the Brown wire to operate its relay for the switched side.

 

[protondecay123]

Read what I wrote one more time. The accessory connector has three wires. The Red and white wire is on all of the time. Take a meter to it or read the schematic if you want proof. The Brown wire is on only when the ignition is on. I have the Eastern Beaver PC-8. It uses the Brown wire to operate its relay for the switched side.

Thanks for that Tremor. I'm about to get a 85/86 switch for the accessory 4" HID's that I've added. ::026::

 

[sallydog]