That's funny seeing as they actually sell 'blended' oils!........(synthetic and dino)Yippeee - An oil thread!!! We haven't had one around here in a surprisingly long time.
(Just don't mix synthetic and dino in the crankcase, of course.)
That's funny seeing as they actually sell 'blended' oils!........(synthetic and dino)Yippeee - An oil thread!!! We haven't had one around here in a surprisingly long time.
(Just don't mix synthetic and dino in the crankcase, of course.)
The 10-60 V-Twin oils are generally intended for air cooled motors where tolerances tend to be greater than liquid, (water/oil), cooled motors. I doubt that the 10-60 oils would have any adverse effect on a motor, but they may not be the optimum oil for some motors, although operating conditions, heat and cold, may influence oil selection.The V-Twin labeled oils are aimed at the older dry clutch bikes. Get the Metric, which is intended for wet clutch bikes, like ours. Likely won't cause any harm short term, if you're in a pinch.
Consensus is to run a non-syn until 7or8 thousand miles for full break then switch if desired? Im planning on running yammylube non-syn for possibly as long as I own this bike. It’s always performed well in my other toys.I changed over to synthetic at the 600 mile oil change. Some do it at the 4K oil change.
Nothing wrong with that. But with the new engines, not so sure it is necessary to do that anymore. Look at all the engines that come with synthetic from the factory now.Consensus is to run a non-syn until 7or8 thousand miles for full break then switch if desired? Im planning on running yammylube non-syn for possibly as long as I own this bike. It’s always performed well in my other toys.
You read it correctly sir!Read it somewhere why there is specific V-Twin oils. Usually V-Twins are "air cooled" engines with one cylinder getting lots of cooling and the rear one getting less. As it runs hotter on the rear cylinder, thicker viscosity with higher viscosity index is required to maintain that consistency of viscosity between the cooler and hotter cylinders. The focus is with the hotter running cylinder so that is is better protected.
How it affects a standard water cooled engines? Water cooled engines runs relatively cooler than air cooled engines and does not require the viscosity to be thick for adequate protection. Thick means more viscous drag and drops the efficiency of the engine and that probably means poorer gas mileage and less responsive.
....as long as it meets the specs....
Well the castrol full syn that came with the xcx I had didn’t work so well. I switched to yamalube and consumption dropped 2/3rds.Nothing wrong with that. But with the new engines, not so sure it is necessary to do that anymore. Look at all the engines that come with synthetic from the factory now.
Dino, synthetic, or blended, as long as it meets the specs and makes you happy. All of them will make the engine happy.
I was referring to the s10 only with my statementConsensus is to run a non-syn until 7or8 thousand miles for full break then switch if desired? Im planning on running yammylube non-syn for possibly as long as I own this bike. It’s always performed well in my other toys.
Couldn't agree more!Rotela 5 40 synthetic for me. Has JASO rating and costs just a little more than Dino . Blue jug Walmart $22 bucks. If I need to run it a little long, on a big trip, extra piece of mind.
I haven't heard that in a long, long time. What brought you to that conclusion?Before switching to synthetic,you must clean engine out with kerosene.
The one with the mostest bestest friction reducers?I love oil threads. It's like watching two Wiccans arguing about which one can cast a more powerful healing spell
Why, when it is perfectly safe and acceptable to change to fully synth from semi-synth or dino oils as long as they meet the mimimum recommended specs?Before switching to synthetic,you must clean engine out with kerosene.
I stopped using kerosene years ago as I found it to be too corrosive. I use oil of vitriol every other oil change to really clean things out. Get it at NAPA in quarts. Works great.Before switching to synthetic,you must clean engine out with kerosene.
You really should mix that with some dihydrogen oxide for best results. Be very careful though, either alone can be fatal and mixing them still creates a potentially deadly mixture.I stopped using kerosene years ago as I found it to be too corrosive. I use oil of vitriol every other oil change to really clean things out. Get it at NAPA in quarts. Works great.
What utter garbage!Before switching to synthetic,you must clean engine out with kerosene.
Jimmy of course forgot to add the smiley after that statement...Before switching to synthetic,you must clean engine out with kerosene.