Amsoil Metric or V Twin oil?

ace50

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Yippeee - An oil thread!!! We haven't had one around here in a surprisingly long time.
:D

(Just don't mix synthetic and dino in the crankcase, of course.)
That's funny seeing as they actually sell 'blended' oils!........(synthetic and dino)
 

Longdog Cymru

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The V-Twin labeled oils are aimed at the older dry clutch bikes. Get the Metric, which is intended for wet clutch bikes, like ours. Likely won't cause any harm short term, if you're in a pinch.
The 10-60 V-Twin oils are generally intended for air cooled motors where tolerances tend to be greater than liquid, (water/oil), cooled motors. I doubt that the 10-60 oils would have any adverse effect on a motor, but they may not be the optimum oil for some motors, although operating conditions, heat and cold, may influence oil selection.

Before anyone jumps in and says all motors are air cooled, I am referring to motors without a water jacket and radiator but are cooled by airflow over finned cylinders !!!!
 

Clawdog60

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I changed over to synthetic at the 600 mile oil change. Some do it at the 4K oil change.
Consensus is to run a non-syn until 7or8 thousand miles for full break then switch if desired? Im planning on running yammylube non-syn for possibly as long as I own this bike. It’s always performed well in my other toys.
 

HeliMark

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Consensus is to run a non-syn until 7or8 thousand miles for full break then switch if desired? Im planning on running yammylube non-syn for possibly as long as I own this bike. It’s always performed well in my other toys.
Nothing wrong with that. But with the new engines, not so sure it is necessary to do that anymore. Look at all the engines that come with synthetic from the factory now.

Dino, synthetic, or blended, as long as it meets the specs and makes you happy. All of them will make the engine happy.
 

Longdog Cymru

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Read it somewhere why there is specific V-Twin oils. Usually V-Twins are "air cooled" engines with one cylinder getting lots of cooling and the rear one getting less. As it runs hotter on the rear cylinder, thicker viscosity with higher viscosity index is required to maintain that consistency of viscosity between the cooler and hotter cylinders. The focus is with the hotter running cylinder so that is is better protected.

How it affects a standard water cooled engines? Water cooled engines runs relatively cooler than air cooled engines and does not require the viscosity to be thick for adequate protection. Thick means more viscous drag and drops the efficiency of the engine and that probably means poorer gas mileage and less responsive.
You read it correctly sir!

Air cooled engines run bigger clearances than water cooled motors, so..... you tend to get more “blow-by” in a cylinder with bigger tolerances and you would generally need to use a higher viscosity oil than you would in a water cooled engine with tighter tolerances.
 

Sierra1

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....as long as it meets the specs....

THAT is the key; in my opinion. I have a Jeep, with over 150K miles, that has never tasted synthetic oil; oil gets changed per manual recommendations. Runs like a top. My kid's car is specified to run 0w-20. I've never seen conventional oil in that weight, so synthetic it is. There are al lot of high mileage, old cars, that run fine. As long as the oil IS changed when it is supposed to be, I think that synthetic V conventional becomes less of an issue. Vehicles operate SO much cleaner than in the past. Which translates into less "yuck" in the oil. My two cents.
 
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Clawdog60

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Nothing wrong with that. But with the new engines, not so sure it is necessary to do that anymore. Look at all the engines that come with synthetic from the factory now.

Dino, synthetic, or blended, as long as it meets the specs and makes you happy. All of them will make the engine happy.
Well the castrol full syn that came with the xcx I had didn’t work so well. I switched to yamalube and consumption dropped 2/3rds.
 

Clawdog60

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Consensus is to run a non-syn until 7or8 thousand miles for full break then switch if desired? Im planning on running yammylube non-syn for possibly as long as I own this bike. It’s always performed well in my other toys.
I was referring to the s10 only with my statement
 

Xclimation

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Rotella T6 .....but there is a lot of "it depends" on what's optimal. Oil has come a long way in recent years....Dino oil of today is just as good as synthetic of 15 years ago. And as Sierra stated...modern day engines run much cleaner than engines of 10 years ago. Always lively on blogs when it comes to oil threads! Y'all are awesome because this is tame compared to say the Ford Trucks or the Dodge Trucks blogs I used to frequent on this very topic!!!
 

EricV

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Before switching to synthetic,you must clean engine out with kerosene.
I haven't heard that in a long, long time. What brought you to that conclusion?

The kerosene is essentially a solvent flushing out the build up of particulate gunk inside the engine. Most of the 'Engine Flush' products are mostly kerosene. I used to use those on high mileage cars on occasion. Never saw any issues with leaks after, though the old guys used to tell me some good stories about cars from the 60's and 70's having leaks with synthetics of that era or after engine flush was done.

With the cleaner burning engines and ceramic lined cylinders, I would consider that no longer a 'truth'. Not to mention the huge improvements in synthetic oils across the board. YMMV
 

Longdog Cymru

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Before switching to synthetic,you must clean engine out with kerosene.
Why, when it is perfectly safe and acceptable to change to fully synth from semi-synth or dino oils as long as they meet the mimimum recommended specs?

This really makes no sense at all and risks a “dry” start-up for some components.
 

OldRider

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Before switching to synthetic,you must clean engine out with kerosene.
I stopped using kerosene years ago as I found it to be too corrosive. I use oil of vitriol every other oil change to really clean things out. Get it at NAPA in quarts. Works great. ;)
 

EricV

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I stopped using kerosene years ago as I found it to be too corrosive. I use oil of vitriol every other oil change to really clean things out. Get it at NAPA in quarts. Works great. ;)
You really should mix that with some dihydrogen oxide for best results. Be very careful though, either alone can be fatal and mixing them still creates a potentially deadly mixture.
 
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