2014 bars on 2013

Blueridge

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Jun 24, 2014
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I just got my 2013 and already I'm looking to try either risers or different bars due to reach issues and the angle causing my right thumb and wrist some pain. I've angled my bars down a bit but haven't gotten to ride it yet and suspect that's not going to take care of the problem entirely.
According to the ads/write ups for the 2014, they changed the bars to pull them closer to the rider.
Has anyone ridden the 2014 that has also ridden the 2013 to compare the difference? I'm assuming the 2014 bars would fit on the 2013. Just wondering if it would be enough difference to avoid having to buy risers and go through the cable relocation issues.
I have a 2011 KLR also and have zero issues with the height and angle of the bars. I want the same for the new Super 10.
 

tomatocity

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A search will get you a ton of information on both aftermarket handlebars and riser. There is a spreadsheet (somewhere) that has the specs of all the handlebars.

Altrider has video's of how to properly install the Rox Risers and create Clutch and Brake slack.
 

Blueridge

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I have looked at the threads related to various riser/handlebar options and I've watched the Alt Rider video. I was just hoping that someone would have ridden both the 2013 and the 2014 and would be able to share any differences related to the handlebar reach or angle. I haven't seen a new 2014 yet to be able to sit on it and see for myself.
Thanks for the suggestions.
 

avc8130

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Blueridge said:
I have looked at the threads related to various riser/handlebar options and I've watched the Alt Rider video. I was just hoping that someone would have ridden both the 2013 and the 2014 and would be able to share any differences related to the handlebar reach or angle. I haven't seen a new 2014 yet to be able to sit on it and see for myself.
Thanks for the suggestions.
To swap on the 14 setup would be very costly. You would need a new top triple as the risers interface differently than on the 12/13. You would also need the risers themselves and the bars.

In the long run, it seems much more practical to just adjust the 12/13 setup to your comfort needs through risers/bars as you desire.

ac
 

Blueridge

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Waynesville, NC
Thanks for the info. Just ordered the Rox risers. That will take care of the pull back issue. Maybe it will help the thumb and wrist too or I will have to figure out some different bars.
 

scott123007

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Blueridge, I don't know how handy you are but if you get 2" adjustable Rox risers and cut 5/8" off each end of your handlebars they will feel like a whole different animal. You will have to drill locating pin holes 5/8" inboard of the existing ones on your handlebars but the threaded bar ends will still be intact and reuseable. You will not have to change your cables.
 

Blueridge

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If the Rox risers don't take care of the problem entirely, I will consider cutting the bars. I've read some other posts that indicated people had filed off the location tabs on the controls instead of drilling the bars. That seems like an easier fix. Any reason why that wouldn't work as well?
 

s-flow

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I did both drilling and rub away the pins. If I should do it again ill choose drill..

after removing the pins, the controls will not sit tight. There will be a need for some friction material
under the controls. That *could* be ugly and a little hassle.
 

BarkSlayer

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May 31, 2014
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The problem with the original equipment handlebar is that it is just a terrible bend. Adding risers to fix a bad bend will simply yield a taller bar with an equally bad bend. I went with the Moose Racing XC bar which is the highest, straightest bend I could find. It's the same overall width as the original, without the exaggerated, droopy sweep.
 
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