What you did to your Tenere today??!!
- Thread starter biting_point
- Start date
SHUMBA
Well-Known Member
Hmmmm..not sure what I'm looking at.
Is this something on the Tenere??
SHUMBA
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dell835
Active Member
Catalytic converter.
SHUMBA
Well-Known Member
jmz
Active Member
It's not as thick as it looks. Some of that is weld that you see. I tried to cut mine in the middle of the weld so I would have more metal to weld to when I put it back together.
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Fordf350
Well-Known Member
How many miles on bike ? Let us know if you notice performance gain/loss.
jmz
Active Member
130K on the bike. ERICV`s old 2012 . I would say it seems like it does run better , how much I don`t know..
Finally finished adjusting the valve clearances on my Gen 1. I didn't actually think it was such a bad job but I just took my time. The worst part was waiting 2 weeks for the dealer to get the shims into stock.
The best part was using a left-over bit of LED light strip to light up the engine while I was working on it, it made a huge difference having goood light in the right place. The strip was just connected to an old bike battery.
The best part was using a left-over bit of LED light strip to light up the engine while I was working on it, it made a huge difference having goood light in the right place. The strip was just connected to an old bike battery.
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WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
Looking at the front brake pads as best I could, the two inner front pads looked alarmingly thin. I had new brake pads installed when Yamaha replaced the warped front rotors at 19,000 miles under my YES policy. The bike now has just shy of 70,000 miles, so that's 50K+ pad life! I snagged the original pads at the time and pulled those out to replace the 50K old ones.
To my surprise, once removed, the 50K pads looked about the same, in terms or remaining pad thickness, as the 19K pads I had saved. There must have been a bit of an optical illusion because the inner pads once removed did not look so alarmingly thin, just slightly thinner than the outer pads. The 19K pads I had looked exactly the same. Since I had it all apart I reassembled using the 19K pads, swapping the slightly thicker pad to the inside. I smeared some silicone brake lube on the backs and edges of the pads as well as the retaining pin and slapped it back together.
I'm on my 4th set of rear pads so this bike is different (or I am riding it differently) to any bike I've previously owned in that I'm used to going through the front pads faster or about the same rate as the rear pads. There does not appear to be any unusual drag or anything as on the center stand the rear wheel can be easily spun by hand. The third set of rear pads were EBCs because I could not find a set of OEMs when I needed them. I liked the feel and initial bite they offered, but they only lasted half the miles of the OEMs.
To my surprise, once removed, the 50K pads looked about the same, in terms or remaining pad thickness, as the 19K pads I had saved. There must have been a bit of an optical illusion because the inner pads once removed did not look so alarmingly thin, just slightly thinner than the outer pads. The 19K pads I had looked exactly the same. Since I had it all apart I reassembled using the 19K pads, swapping the slightly thicker pad to the inside. I smeared some silicone brake lube on the backs and edges of the pads as well as the retaining pin and slapped it back together.
I'm on my 4th set of rear pads so this bike is different (or I am riding it differently) to any bike I've previously owned in that I'm used to going through the front pads faster or about the same rate as the rear pads. There does not appear to be any unusual drag or anything as on the center stand the rear wheel can be easily spun by hand. The third set of rear pads were EBCs because I could not find a set of OEMs when I needed them. I liked the feel and initial bite they offered, but they only lasted half the miles of the OEMs.
navynuke
Well-Known Member
The linked brakes have this effect. Same for my bike on wearing rear pads.
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WJBertrand
Ventura Highway
That must be the explanation, though my previous ST1300, and the bike I had in mind when writing the previous post, also had linked brakes. Its linking was accomplished hydraulically whereas the Tenere's linkage is electronically controlled via the ABS system. It must be more aggressively tuned to the rear than Honda's hydraulic system.
Highwayman
Well-Known Member
Arrow full exhaust, OEM heated grips, madstad brackets and NC screen.
At 74K miles, I still have the original front pads. I have a new set, but every time I look at the ones on the bike, they still have a lot of meat left. Figure somewhere around another 10-15K, and I am just going to replace them anyway.
madman4049
Active Member
madman4049
Active Member
Tried out the Novsight led bulbs I ordered, they're really damn bright and pure white like the D4's much cleaner light than the incandescents in there. Took em back out, still need to get Deftoner's caps and don't want to damage them in the meantime being exposed. Once I get them installed for good every single light on the bike will be LED.
Got a 2nd Denali switch installed in the main dash. Routed that harness to take over controlling the existing Denali D4 2.0's. Since I almost never turn the D4's off except for maybe in traffic jams I wanted the switch out of the way so that... The bar mounted switch that used to control the D4's will now control a pair of Baja S2's wide cornering angled to the side for night trail riding like Tabasco did to his. I'll be wiring those after the holidays. This way when I'm bombing dirt trail/road at night if I come across campers or another vehicle I can flip the side lights off with ease. I like Denali's sealed minimally illuminated switches over just about any other, especially the big obnoxiously bright round red ones that come with most lighting kits.
Also installed a switch in the main dash for an ABS disconnect also a dirt focused mod. Laid out the wire, inline fuse, connectors, etc. The soldering and wiring and finish work comes tomorrow, it's late.
The switch above the voltage meter is an accessory master shut off going straight to my PDM60. If I'm ever riding and have weird shit start going on with my electronics or having battery issues I can flip that switch and instantly kill power to the PDM60 which will kill all accessories, gps, phone, aux lights, tank bag power, etc.
Got a 2nd Denali switch installed in the main dash. Routed that harness to take over controlling the existing Denali D4 2.0's. Since I almost never turn the D4's off except for maybe in traffic jams I wanted the switch out of the way so that... The bar mounted switch that used to control the D4's will now control a pair of Baja S2's wide cornering angled to the side for night trail riding like Tabasco did to his. I'll be wiring those after the holidays. This way when I'm bombing dirt trail/road at night if I come across campers or another vehicle I can flip the side lights off with ease. I like Denali's sealed minimally illuminated switches over just about any other, especially the big obnoxiously bright round red ones that come with most lighting kits.
Also installed a switch in the main dash for an ABS disconnect also a dirt focused mod. Laid out the wire, inline fuse, connectors, etc. The soldering and wiring and finish work comes tomorrow, it's late.
The switch above the voltage meter is an accessory master shut off going straight to my PDM60. If I'm ever riding and have weird shit start going on with my electronics or having battery issues I can flip that switch and instantly kill power to the PDM60 which will kill all accessories, gps, phone, aux lights, tank bag power, etc.
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Tenman
Well-Known Member
I ordered some earbuds from Aliexpress. Took a over a month to get them. I finally got a refund. They showed up the day after the refund. Gotem free
[Tenman's post is due to a spam post which has been deleted. - CW]
fwiw - I've gotten some really good deals on AliExpress, but delivery seems to be a wildcard. I've had stuff delivered in a few days and others which like you, have taken over a month. I'm currently looking at some 100 Ah lithium battery cells for the boat at less than half the price of a Battleborn 100 Ah. It's such a screaming deal I'm willing to wait if needed.
Hi! I see you have a ABS switch in a Gen1, will you be able to share the wire arrangement you did to have the ABS on/of switch? Also I saw you had a 30W led bubs, I had just gotten a 100W led bulbs in my S10 and I was able to get a very good improvement, but what is in the very bottom of the light I need to get some so I end up putting a wide led light set up that took care of it and this is the way it end up.
At night I do have from the very close to the front tire and covers very well all the way to the front.
Have a nice day!
madman4049
Active Member
Hello, here's the link for the how-to on the ABS disable How-To ABS Disable Switch I totally didn't come up with it I just followed @meospeeds excellent write-up so give him any thanks. It took maybe 1 hr once I had components and harness pre-built and was a piece of cake.
I was going to get these headlight Bulbs but wanted to keep the headlight wattage low since I have a set of D4 2.0's which will vastly overpower any headlight bulb anyway and I want a set of Baja S2's as well.
Hope that helps.