Is the newer CCT from yamaha part number 2BS-12210-01 the part i need to put in a 2013 gen 1 bike and can i ask why its better than the one already in the bike
rob
There is only one CCT part number for the Super Tenere. They didn't come out with a second part for Gen II, they superseded the old part number, indicating a change/improvement in the design. No one has reported a failure of the new design, which appears to have been changed again, (last year?), to the current part number of 2BS-12210-01-00. The same part number is listed for 2010 to 2018 Super Teneres.
If you have a 2010-2013 bike, that has the original design and it's known to sometimes fail. Rarely before 50k miles. Yamaha USA has been recommending replacement of this CCT at or before the second valve check/adjustment interval. I don't know what was improved, but it does appear that actual improvements were made.
In regards to doing valve checks or not. I put 162k on a 2004 FJRa. I checked the valves at 26k and they were fine. I checked again at 52k and two exhaust valves were tight and got re-shimmed. At 78k I checked the valves and they were all good. At 99k I discovered that the tech had not tightened the intake clamps at the 78k check. (long story, Jr tech). During this time I had gone thru 3 CCTs, all getting noisy, but no failures or chain slippage. The FJR had a different design of CCT that ratched out, and these were suffering broken springs and failing to push out with wear to tension the chain properly. The FJR has a much shorter cam chain, so it wouldn't usually slip, just get noisy until the CCT moved out, the get quiet again for a long while.
Because of the loose clamp on the intake snorkles, dirty air and debris was being sucked into the engine and it caused premature ring/piston and valve wear. It was cheaper to buy a used engine than to repair mine, so I purchased a 6k mile used engine in excellent condition from a wrecked bike. I was lucky to buy it from the actual owner, not a wrecker, so it had not been stored outside or dis-assembled.
The replacement engine got the valves checked in another 21k miles or 120k on the bike. One exhast valve needed shimming, the rest were fine. At 146k, the valve check showed the same exhaust valve very tight. It was still possible to shim it back into spec. I was told then that at the next valve check, it might be necessary to have a valve job done because that one valve might be out again and impossible to shim enough to bring it back into spec. I sold the bike, still running great, at 162k miles because I had purchased the Super Ten, so don't know if that actually was the case.
Because of my good history on valve checks with the FJR, on my 2012 Super Ten, I skipped the first valve check. At 52k all 4 exhaust valves were just barely out of spec on the tight side and were re-shimmed. Because of a 8k mile 30 day trip, I delayed the 78k valve check until my return, 83k, upon which the CCT was failing. I suspect the valves were still fine and would not have needed re-shim, but will never know because I changed the oil before taking it to the dealer for the valve check and CCT replacement and the cam chain slipped when I went to start it to ride to the dealer. That resulted in a bent valve, damaged piston and about $4k USD worth of repairs under the YES extended warranty, which took 4 months, mostly waiting on approval from the Yamaha warranty manager.
I kept riding that bike and had the valves checked again around 109k. I don't recall exactly, but think they were fine. I sold the bike shortly after that and the new owner didn't have to wonder if the valves were ok or not. Still had nearly 2 year of YES warranty in place as well.
I'm not a big throttle movement rider. I'm not afraid to use the throttle, I just down saw it back and forth a lot while riding. I mostly go places with the bike and am a smooth rider. For my riding style, it appears that I'm not hard on the valves and can skip a check. The 2015 Super Ten I currently ride will be due for the valve check/adjustment in about 3k miles and I will get it checked. I could probably skip it, but every bike is different and for the ~$400 USD to get it done at the dealer, I want it documented that it was done. You just never know until you check. I'm not willing to let it become worse if there is a tight valve and risk more expensive repairs down the road because I keep my bikes for a lot of miles.
I have a Touratech shock with upgraded spring that I like. Not cheap, and there are less expensive options out there that are good too. Originally I upgraded just the spring to an 1100 lb unit, which worked fine with the OEM shock, for me, for about 50k before starting to notice degradation.