Where to take switched live for switching current for relays?

[neilbarnwell]

I'm thinking of getting an eastern Beaver PC-8 for my accessories because I appreciate how tidy a solution it is, but this question equally applies if you use a more "home made" solution.

So the PC-8 supplies power for "stuff", and in most cases where I want an individual switch (e.g. spotlights, laser cannons, oil slick etc) I assume I should use a switch to operate a relay that acts as a switch on whichever circuit I'm connecting to on the PC-8. The question is, where should I take the switched live for the low-current switch side of the relay(s)?

Also, assuming I do use a PC-8, what is the relay in the full EB kit for? Is it because the switch in the built-in connector supplies low current, which is then used to control the PC-8 relay, which is connected direct to the battery?

 

[yoyo]

I fitted a Sat Nav to my Gen 2 and Spots to a friends Gen 1 and used the brown wire going to the blanked off 3 pin plug designed for the factory fitted spot lights.

 

[Juan]

In answer to your first question, to connect the low current side of the relay many of us take the switched live from the 3-pronged white connector behind the mass of wires just forward of the battery. For example, I connected my GPS cradle to this connector.

As to your second question, I have no knowledge of the PC-8 but most (if not all) fuse boxes would also have a direct link to the battery to power accessories. The low-current switched positive is only used to energise the fuse box to provide switched power for accessories.

 

[fred-houston]

I did what has been suggested above.

Here are some pictures.

 

[fred-houston]

In answer to your first question, to connect the low current side of the relay many of us take the switched live from the 3-pronged white connector behind the mass of wires just forward of the battery. For example, I connected my GPS cradle to this connector.

As to your second question, I have no knowledge of the PC-8 but most (if not all) fuse boxes would also have a direct link to the battery to power accessories. The low-current switched positive is only used to energise the fuse box to provide switched power for accessories.

The PC-8 does not come with a relay, it has to be purchased separately. I think the fuse block is appropriately valued, but I think the relay kit is a bit overpriced. At least that is my opinion, so I just wired in my own relay.

 

[AVGeek]

The relay for the PC8 creates the switched side of the block. The harness EB sells utilizes the stock fog lamp accessory harness (the white 3-pin plug referred above) to provide a switched lead to the low amp side of the relay, while the high amp side is wired into the portion that attaches directly to the battery.

 

[hojo in sc]

The PC8 will give you locations to add stuff that come on only with the bike, and other locations (fuses) that are hot all the time. I guess it's all what you want in your outcome. This is what I did:

Fog lights come on with the key (Eastern Beaver) and I have a handlebar mounted on/off switch for when I don't want them on (if I'm running too much heated gear).
Spot light comes on with key and I have a handlebar mounted on/off switch for when I don't want them on.
GPS is hot all the time from the fuse panel, except I have a handlebar mounted switch so I can turn it off when I leave the bike (which I take the GPS with me anyway).
Volt meter is hot all the time from the fuse panel, except I have a handlebar mounted switch so I can turn it off when I leave the bike for an extended period of time (not that it draws much).
Battery Tender is hard wired directly to the battery.
Air horn circuit comes live with the key on (it comes on with the bike, but you have to press the OEM switch to make it HOOONNNNKKKKK).