What's the Deal with Cheap Heated Grips?

wessie

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mcbrien said:
To remove grips simply stick a phillips head screw driver in between grip and bar / sleeve all the way up to housing then
with the tube on a can of WD40 spray a little along screw driver then turn the handle and it will rotate around the bar .
Give it a pull and off it comes...easy peasy .
I used the screwdriver method. I don't like to use WD40 as that makes it more likely that the new grip will slip. As it is, it took a bit of effort but the bars remained sticky enough not to need any additional glue to make the new grips secure.
 

tomatocity

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mcbrien said:
To remove grips simply stick a phillips head screw driver in between grip and bar / sleeve all the way up to housing then
with the tube on a can of WD40 spray a little along screw driver then turn the handle and it will rotate around the bar .
Give it a pull and off it comes...easy peasy .
I used air to get the left grip off and installed the new grip by sliding it on then hitting the end with my hand.
 

Mtbjay

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Well, com what I've gathered here since I started this thread is: the OEM grips may be the warmest, and the neatest (most compatible) install. But... You have paid a premium for that, although they may (should) come with a full one year warranty. I dipise the overly large, in your your face control, BUT... Like the idea of an infinitely variable, device that actually controls the draw on the generator. I think that's important. Having the heat coils embedded in the grips, potentially generating the most heat, seems the most significant reason to get them (price being no object). I only wish they came with a more discreet adjustment dial!
 

tomatocity

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Mtbjay said:
Well, com what I've gathered here since I started this thread is: the OEM grips may be the warmest, and the neatest (most compatible) install. But... You have paid a premium for that, although they may (should) come with a full one year warranty. I dipise the overly large, in your your face control, BUT... Like the idea of an infinitely variable, device that actually controls the draw on the generator. I think that's important. Having the heat coils embedded in the grips, potentially generating the most heat, seems the most significant reason to get them (price being no object). I only wish they came with a more discreet adjustment dial!
I have the Controller mounted with the WASP mount. It is to the left of the gauges and out of the way. As for the size of the Controller, read what MarkJenn said.
 

JaimeV

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Mar 5, 2012
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Barcelona
I have the Daytona heated grips, they where the cheapest I’ve found. I’m not using it much and found the OEM price ridiculous.
The Daytona have 4 positions, they work fine (for the moment) and the switch is smaller than the huge OEM.
I’m also like the grip is quite thin.

 

The Ferret

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Aug 23, 2011
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I use Roxtor heated grips, which are an Oxford copy or rebadge(?). The grips themselves are excellent, but the controller packed up ages ago after a period of phantom turn-ons in Summer. Not wanting to fork out for another controller I did a bit of research and found folks were having better success using Pulse Width Modulators(PWM) from other sources. I picked up a LED light dimmer for £5 ( ~$10 ) and reboxed it, wired in using existing harness. Its been working fine now for 4 weeks. Toasty!

Tips
to get old grips off used compressed air between bar an grip to prise the glue away.
contact adhesives seem to work for glueing new grips on.
save your old grips as you may need to use a strip to infill between grip and bar end. Make sure throttle auto returns!
 

Duconce

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Yamaha grips can be had for 303 dollars from dealers listed on this site. Question on install, anyone have a clue as to why they want left side panel and vent hoses pulled [page 3]? Seems like they were going to have you lift tank. Anyway wasted move.
 

tomatocity

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Duconce said:
Yamaha grips can be had for 303 dollars from dealers listed on this site. Question on install, anyone have a clue as to why they want left side panel and vent hoses pulled [page 3]? Seems like they were going to have you lift tank. Anyway wasted move.
There is no need to remove or deal with the left side. Luckily I did mine with a OEM Heated Grip veteran present. Saved a lot of time. Thanks Phil.

NOTE: make sure the throttle side bar end dampener is spaced enough for throttle grip clearance.
 

roy

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My Yamaha grip heater controller box has developed a crack in the plastic housing where one of the small mount screws attached it to the metal bracket. Out of the year warranty and I'm SOL. I have a piece of tape holding it on for security right now but I will eventually have to take it apart and see if I can glue that cracked corner back on. Other than that they have worked alright. Not happy with the cracked housing though for an over $300 price tag.
 

Duconce

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tomatocity said:
There is no need to remove or deal with the left side. Luckily I did mine with a OEM Heated Grip veteran present. Saved a lot of time. Thanks Phil.

NOTE: make sure the throttle side bar end dampener is spaced enough for throttle grip clearance.

I never took left side off, but it did spend some time looking at why. Drilling the hole where it was punched seem to be right on the with where the bar end was originally, if that is what you are referring too
 

tomatocity

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roy said:
My Yamaha grip heater controller box has developed a crack in the plastic housing where one of the small mount screws attached it to the metal bracket. Out of the year warranty and I'm SOL. I have a piece of tape holding it on for security right now but I will eventually have to take it apart and see if I can glue that cracked corner back on. Other than that they have worked alright. Not happy with the cracked housing though for an over $300 price tag.
Bummer about the crack. Consider trimming a piece of thin plastic to the back of the controller. Use a good adhesive to fasten the piece of plastic to the back of the controller and remount the it. Should be good to go.
 

tomatocity

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Duconce said:
I never took left side off, but it did spend some time looking at why. Drilling the hole where it was punched seem to be right on the with where the bar end was originally, if that is what you are referring too
I do not have stock handlebars and they do not have the control space the OEM bars have. I filed the pin, mounted for clearance and tightened the throttle housing.
 

RIVA

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It would appear that the Yamaha OEM heated grips have some QC issues . So the question remains. "Why spend in excess of $300 on oem grips and suffer issues when you can have issues with non-oem heated grips for < $50. ::025::
 

lbever

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My Warm and Safe grips get plenty hot. Never run them on high. The warm and safe controllers will also work with Hot Grip brand grips which are similar to the Yamaha heated grips with the heating elements inbedded in the grips.

Link to Hot Grips
http://www.hotgrips.com/
 
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