What you did to your Tenere today??!!

Marseal

New Member
Joined
May 16, 2024
Messages
4
Location
Denver, CO
The screw doesn't come out. The clip has a groove you press in and up (I think) to release and it rotates out of the way. You can remove the whole headight assembly to better see it if necessary.

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Got it! I'll take a pic in the meantime when I work on it tomorrow but I think you are right, thanks!
 

Jlq1969

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 5, 2018
Messages
1,828
Location
Argentina
I think it's not a problem. It is normal to find this type of wear on a tire with knobs. On the rear tire, it is normal for it to occur due to traction. In the front it occurs due to resistance to advance. If you measure the distance traveled by both tires in a complete turn and on a hard surface and then do the same but on a non-sticky surface (like sand)... you will see that in one turn the rear wheel will travel less distance (due to skidding)... and the front one will travel more distance (by crawling)
If this resistance to the advancement of the front wheel is on an abrasive surface (such as asphalt), the wear is more noticeable.
 

WJBertrand

Ventura Highway
Joined
Jun 20, 2015
Messages
4,562
Location
Ventura, CA
You don’t take that screw out, you bend that wire bail and unhook it at the other end. It will then swing out of the way. No need to touch the screw.
 

holligl

Find the road less traveled...
Joined
Nov 13, 2015
Messages
2,300
Location
IL/AZ
Finished up the light mounting. Waiting for the three prong connector to finish with a relay for high beam on/off. These are HF spots. A little concerned that these "off road use only" lights might be two bright for the highway. They put the LED headlights to shame. I don't ride much at night, but I think these will be a great benefit when I do. Daylight visibility with the light separation should be greatly improved too.


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duckfanbuck

Member
Joined
Mar 30, 2024
Messages
30
Location
Oregon
Front fender extender, kickstand footer and accessory bar GPS mounting plate off of EBay. Garmin Montana 680t GPS and Alaska sheepskin butt pad bought off of ADV flea market. Pig sticker for Miss Piggy’s side case plus a V-Stream touring windscreen. Next is a set of Pivot Pegs then am done for awhile.
 
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lund

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2019
Messages
819
Location
Okanagan Valley, Canada.
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Just thought I would post these pictures for those who may be running ACD skid and or Outback crash bars and considering headers. I run the combo of both. But the Arrow headers are not fitted to work with either and some minor modifications are required to fit the headers while using ACD or Outback.
 

SkunkWorks

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2018
Messages
1,860
Location
Colorado
My old (smaller) lithium jump-pack that I have had for around 8 or 9 years had given up, and will no longer hold a charge for any length of time...........would also not boost a small 4-cylinder car the last time I tried to use it for that...............so away it goes!

In its place I've ordered the Noco GBX-45 (which is the largest one they offer that has removable jumper-leads. This was an important feature to me)


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Size comparison to an old iphone 6S-plus (same size as my 12-Pro max)

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Weight with a full charge of electrons :p
1lb-5oz
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The reason I wanted one with removable jumper-leads, is because I also ordered the "Hard-Wired" jumper-lead Connector.

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SkunkWorks

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2018
Messages
1,860
Location
Colorado
Easily connects to the Noco Lithium Battery. (pardon my dirt!)

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Velcro-Strapped to the Frame, tucked out of the way for easy access if needed.

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Also came with a fused adapter-connector for my Genius-10 Battery Charger/Maintainer.

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If I ever need to jumpstart the bike, I can just plug the boost-pack into the hardwired cable.
It will reside in the bottom of my pannier when I'm out touring, and I won't need to bring the alligator-clamp leads with me.
 

SilverBullet

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2014
Messages
1,197
Location
Harmaston, TX
...If I ever need to jumpstart the bike, I can just plug the boost-pack into the hardwired cable.
It will reside in the bottom of my pannier when I'm out touring, and I won't need to bring the alligator-clamp leads with me.
I've done a similar hard wire for a different brand jump pack. But clamp leads are small enough I still carry them in case needed to help out another.

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holligl

Find the road less traveled...
Joined
Nov 13, 2015
Messages
2,300
Location
IL/AZ
Took out my new 2023 S10 ES for a familiarization ride and setup session. I'm going to love this bike for a long time. Decided the T7 just wasn't suitable for long trips.

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Similar opinion after renting a T7 for a day. These bikes look weird naked. What bars and plate you going with? (I have some used Mastech bars if you're interested.)
 

PineLaneRider

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 18, 2020
Messages
322
Location
Between Tuscarora and Michaux State Forests, PA
I've done a similar hard wire for a different brand jump pack. But clamp leads are small enough I still carry them in case needed to help out another.

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I had done the same with a hard wired connection for my jump pack. Here's where caution is required. I got a new, more powerful pack and plugged it into my connector. Boom! Sparks! The 2 packs had reversed polarity on the plugs. WTF! There is no reverse connection protection on most of the jump packs themselves, the protection circuit is included in the clamp adapter. Totally destroyed the connector on my new jump pack. Now I have a really big power bank for my phone and tablet. Lesson learned, always check polarity!
 

holligl

Find the road less traveled...
Joined
Nov 13, 2015
Messages
2,300
Location
IL/AZ
I've done a similar hard wire for a different brand jump pack. But clamp leads are small enough I still carry them in case needed to help out another.

Sent from my SM-A326U using Tapatalk
Same here, but I got the lead from a separate company, with diode and fuse built in. 10 Ga vs the nice 8 Ga shown. The first time I needed it I found out the Road Proof Power pack requires the "Smart" circuitry built in to the clamps. I adapted with EC-5 connectors, and tested now. I ran my leads up by the dash, tucked in and held with velcro.
 
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