What tyres does your S10 wear?

EricV

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Surely realising within one or two corners that the lead vehicle enters slower and adjust your following distance would be a better response? No point "having to brake" when you know what the guy in front is going to do...
It was a dynamic group of 5 riders and the rider in front of me was not always as predictable as I thought. Giving him plenty of distance also meant no warning when you came around a corner and found a bike stopped in the road waiting, due to a turn off that road on to another. Single lane roads in heavy forest.
 

regder

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I don't get anywhere close to that mileage out of my Shinko tires (more like half that), but I do find them to be a pretty decent all around tire for me. Guys on line complain about how they ride in the wet but I've never experienced that, and I've seen my share of wet weather on two wheels. My only real gripe with them is that some of my front tires have worn in weird ways. After about 6000 miles on the last one, I started getting a shimmy in the handlebars, and the odd wear pattern was easily visible on the tire. The shimmy went away as soon as I put the new front E07 on.
I used to run them on my V-Strom 650 and really enjoyed them, burned through three sets. I find the 705's will wear dramatically differently depending on usage, I would get about 10k km (6k miles) to a rear, more on the front but it would be badly cupped by that point. Tire replaced once down to 1-2mm of tread remaining.

Then I did a road trip to Colorado, started off with a brand new set, 3k km (1.8k miles) later the rear was 80% worn out. Riding a loaded bike (albeit lighter than a S10) for miles in hot weather at 80mph completely wore it out. Magically it made it through the whole trip of about 7k km (4.3k miles) without needing a replacement, but it had zero tread at the end of it and caused endless stress worrying about it.

Since the 705 experience, I've run Bridgestone T30 Evo, Bridgestone A41, and currently Dunlop Roadsmart 3. Been happy with them all.
 

PhilPhilippines

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It was a dynamic group of 5 riders and the rider in front of me was not always as predictable as I thought. Giving him plenty of distance also meant no warning when you came around a corner and found a bike stopped in the road waiting, due to a turn off that road on to another. Single lane roads in heavy forest.
I am not sure I am following you here.

In a group I would always ride as if I was riding on my own and not get drawn into a group dynamic. We all have seen what happens with a group dynamic.

When I teach on a single track road, with limited forward view, it can be a good reference to use the lead driver/rider to indicate what is about to transpire. You can generally get an idea very quickly by their response to each corner and, particularly to their response to oncoming vehicles and, in the absence of oncoming vehicles, a tightening radius. If there is no reference then double the distance and accept the limitations of the environs.

Slow in (be able to stop within double the distance you can see to be clear on a single track)..... Limit point running ..... Accelerate
 

EricV

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You had to be there. Bread crumbing.
 

MattR

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It turns out that although I checked with the dealer and he confirmed that the new tyres were at OEM pressures, when I checked them today they weren’t. The back tyre was at 30 and the front at 31. I inflated them to to correct pressure and the bike handles much better now. I’ll reserve judgment on these tyres for now..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Gerard

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Continental TKC 70 Rock front and back and loving them. Reasonably good performance in the dirt, but sticking like sh**t to a blanket on the windy tarmac.
 

Sierra1

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. . . . For the record, I have never had “cupping” on any of the tyres on any of the bikes that I have owned. I often wonder if “cupping” is caused by incorrect tyre pressures and/or incorrect suspension settings whether it is damping or pre-load.
Not say that you're wrong, 'cuz. . . . I don't know that you are. But, I can't remember that last time I had a tire that didn't cup. (maybe the OE Battle Wings) "I" was told that heavy bikes, that are braked heavy, will cup tires. I've also heard that underinflation can be a cause, but, I am anal about my tire pressures. I've often wondered why the Tenere's front tire pressure doesn't get increased with an increase in load weight; like the back tire. My assumption is that although I'm at the recommended pressure, it is "underinflated" for the combined weight of the bike, and I.

I don't brake heavy all that much, but when I do. . . . I do. Usually coming off of the highway trying to make the light before it turns yellow/red. Wait 'till the last second to brake, and then squeeze the crap out of the lever. (do not hit the back pedal) That's why it cracks me up when some of y'all complain about her having inadequate brakes. Hardly.

As a matter of fact, Bridgestone say the A41s were designed for today's large adventure bikes. As much as mine are cupping, and the fact that it appears that my front is going to wear out before my back tire. . . . I'm going to have to disagree. They also suck on gravel.
 

PhilPhilippines

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Not say that you're wrong, 'cuz. . . . I don't know that you are. But, I can't remember that last time I had a tire that didn't cup. (maybe the OE Battle Wings) "I" was told that heavy bikes, that are braked heavy, will cup tires. I've also heard that underinflation can be a cause, but, I am anal about my tire pressures. I've often wondered why the Tenere's front tire pressure doesn't get increased with an increase in load weight; like the back tire. My assumption is that although I'm at the recommended pressure, it is "underinflated" for the combined weight of the bike, and I.

I don't brake heavy all that much, but when I do. . . . I do. Usually coming off of the highway trying to make the light before it turns yellow/red. Wait 'till the last second to brake, and then squeeze the crap out of the lever. (do not hit the back pedal) That's why it cracks me up when some of y'all complain about her having inadequate brakes. Hardly.

As a matter of fact, Bridgestone say the A41s were designed for today's large adventure bikes. As much as mine are cupping, and the fact that it appears that my front is going to wear out before my back tire. . . . I'm going to have to disagree. They also suck on gravel.
Do you feel the ABS activate? That could cause cupping in the instance you describe...
 

Kurgan

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ADV tires, even 90/10 tires, with their deeper tread blocks are more prone to tread block distortion and flex under hard braking and cornering loads compared to streetbike tires. They will cup primarily due to (relative) underinflation and hard braking on the street.

S10's ridden by heavier riders, say 250+ pounds, absolutely needs to run higher front tire pressure on the street. 37-38 pounds has been the recommendation by both Michelin and Bridgestone for their ADV tires when I've spoken to them and shown them pics of front tire cupping. I'm at 290 and run 38 front and 41 rear on the street.
 

PhilPhilippines

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ADV tires, even 90/10 tires, with their deeper tread blocks are more prone to tread block distortion and flex under hard braking and cornering loads compared to streetbike tires. They will cup primarily due to (relative) underinflation and hard braking on the street.

S10's ridden by heavier riders, say 250+ pounds, absolutely needs to run higher front tire pressure on the street. 37-38 pounds has been the recommendation by both Michelin and Bridgestone for their ADV tires when I've spoken to them and shown them pics of front tire cupping. I'm at 290 and run 38 front and 41 rear on the street.
Makes sense. Tyre pressure is ballpark advice, and although thoroughly researched by manufacturers and relatively close to correct, it is only a general guide with many variables.
 
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Bmwdumptruck

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Hi there Boris, I was just looking at those and it looks to be a solid well made tire. Question though. Metzler Has 2 different specs for the rear tire in the NEXT version. One is a 150/70 R 17 M/C 69V TL and the other is a 150/70 R 17 M/C 69V TL (B). Does the "B" denote the load rating? Just curious......
According to Oponeo the B version is model specific for a BmwF700GS.
 

hmmm

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Continental TKC 70 Rock front and back and loving them. Reasonably good performance in the dirt, but sticking like sh**t to a blanket on the windy tarmac.
Hi, does anyone know how many miles one could expect from TKC 70 + Rocks on rear on a S10 with mainly tarmac, not heavily loaded?

I heard they are soft compound and wondered if that might translate into a real low lifespan on a heavier bike.
 

Bmwdumptruck

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Hi, does anyone know how many miles one could expect from TKC 70 + Rocks on rear on a S10 with mainly tarmac, not heavily loaded?

I heard they are soft compound and wondered if that might translate into a real low lifespan on a heavier bike.
Cant help with the question from experience , but I’m guessing you’ve pretty much answered yer own question. Any tyre with less tread in contact with the road is going to wear quicker as a general rule. But gotta ask why are you considering a proper 50/50 tyre if your mostly tarmac? Surely standard Tourances or Conti Trails or the like would be a better choice?
 

hmmm

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Well this might be a hard one to explain or maybe understand and it’s just my personal thinking but I’ll have a go.

I was reading like they were more 70/30, with a bit more capability while still being really good on tarmac, sitting somewhere between a so called “trail” tyre and a more knobbly like tkc80.

I already need new tyres and I was thinking I might give them a try to see what happens. I was thinking they might compensate a little for my more adventurous bone that puts me and my tractor in spots where we probably shouldn’t be.

The UK rains a lot which means mud and slippery loose stuff and while serious off-road isn’t really for the S10 so it’s not for that, it doesn’t stop me getting off up a lane or over a track while out on a ride given half a chance.

So I was just thinking out loud really, wondering how to get a bit more grip without going crazy and ruining the S10 on-road experience or without having to ride everywhere on a smaller enduro bike just in case opportunity knocks.

Like I said, just thinking out loud and not sure if that makes much sense to anyone but me but it happens quite often… pictures might help







 

StefanOnHisS10

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Well this might be a hard one to explain or maybe understand and it’s just my personal thinking but I’ll have a go.

I was reading like they were more 70/30, with a bit more capability while still being really good on tarmac, sitting somewhere between a so called “trail” tyre and a more knobbly like tkc80.

I already need new tyres and I was thinking I might give them a try to see what happens. I was thinking they might compensate a little for my more adventurous bone that puts me and my tractor in spots where we probably shouldn’t be.

The UK rains a lot which means mud and slippery loose stuff and while serious off-road isn’t really for the S10 so it’s not for that, it doesn’t stop me getting off up a lane or over a track while out on a ride given half a chance.

So I was just thinking out loud really, wondering how to get a bit more grip without going crazy and ruining the S10 on-road experience or without having to ride everywhere on a smaller enduro bike just in case opportunity knocks.

Like I said, just thinking out loud and not sure if that makes much sense to anyone but me but it happens quite often… pictures might help







Well in that case one of the three Mitas E(enduro)-07
There are the “old” E-07 which our US friends like a lot, then the E-07+ (which I run) and the Dakar version of them. Like in “E-07+ DAKAR”. That one has a harder compound for more longevity.

Stefan.
 

hmmm

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Thanks Stefan that really interesting, I hadn’t thought to look there

Just want to take a chance and try something new, if it works out then happy days, if not then I learned something and that’s still a win isn’t it. The journey will be fun too.

Cheers
 

Bmwdumptruck

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Ah yes, thats terrain mine will never see. I did think the TKC Rocks was more 50/50 but I guess the 80 is that, with the Rocks inbetween that and the 70. And the Tourance 80/20 ish. All very confusing. How the hell anyone can chose which variant is beyond me:)
I’ll stick with Tourances or Trail Attacks for my S10 and GS. Even though I could go road tyres, I think they look wrong on an adventure bike. Chunky bike needs chunky tyres:)
 
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