1. I have Helibar risers and bars on two other bikes. Nothing but effective well thought out products that a very good quality.
Hello fig. I know you asked TenereGUY why he chose the Helibar risers and all his points are valid and true. As a matter of fact I think if the bike goes down the Helibar risers would be stronger than the Rox risers. With that in mind I am 5'10" and really needed to move my bars back to me. I have a sergents seat as well that is leveled just like i did the original seat. I put Rox risers on there and they are very strong and solid. I think there are some cheaper units out there that have copied Rox that may not be strong. O.K. the reasons i chose ROX. I do not like high bars on anything. Just what works for me. With the rox risers I used them to move the bars back without the lift that the Helibar units would put on the bars. With the ROX the further you roll them back the closer to the stock level the bars are. Also it takes a two inch ROX riser to even get them to roll back closer to you. The shorter ones will not roll back very far because of the way they are made. Too short to clear the original camps. I do not like wide bars either and narrowed my bars by 2 inches. Talk about getting a reach set up for me. Now i can do full lock turns and be balanced on the bike and still have enough movement in my arms to change my positioning if i have to. Before i was reaching leaning forward and nothing was there to hold me up except to lean on the bars. that is the very worst thing for me to do. I like to use my legs and core to hold my body in the position i need and leave my arms loose. Even changing directions in faster corners are WAY easier! It was almost impossible to do left right left type corners for me with the stock set up. Some more info for you. All I can say is I should have put those risers on there the first day I bought the bike.
All very good points too! Did you have to extend any hoses or cables?
All wiring and cables were fine the brake and clutch lines should have been replaced with longer ones. Especially the brake but both are doing ok. Of course i narrowed my bars by 2 inches or that would not have been possible. I could not get longer lines when i did this mod but i am planning on putting longer lines on it sometime in the future. It would be best.
Just another note. If you decide to narrow the bars I didn't cut the bars. I just moved all the controls in one inch on each side. I did have to cut off the locating dowel on the switch controls because there is no hold for them to go into. Not a big deal. I have not had any issues with that. It was a easy mod and you can put them back wide if you like it better that way.
Wow, I wasn't aware the controls were not at the end of the bars. Good to know they can be moved inward slightly. I may have to try that, but first I'm mounting my Helibar that i bought last fall and haven't taken the time to install. Lots of good info in this string.
It seems like on the ‘12 or ‘13 ST 10 you can use Heli without extending any cables. I installed these yesterday and can go full lock on both sides. I did unclip the hoses from the bar but may just wrap them down low. I just could not understand what the instructions wanted me to do at the point of attachment to the frame with removing grommet, etc. I assume it was to give a bit more slack. Very confusing. I’m almost 6’1”, 32” inseam, with a Saddlemen with flat seat mod. I like it on the higher setting but as it moves you back I felt I was reaching too much. Hope this works. Thanks for taking a look. How does one know if perhaps the bars are too high? Thanks again.
