Volt Meter

newventurer

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Was looking for a simple volt meter for the Tenere due to the additional lights. Found this one that plugs into the power slot. No more wiring, yeah! The head bends at a good angle to see while riding.

About $15 on Amazon, came in like 2 days. Seems to work great.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVWDU0
 

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tomatocity

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Looks good, good price, simple. Let us know how the volt meter performs.
 

newventurer

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Volt Meter

Had it about a week now, and there are two things that you should know before buying.

1) As mentioned in other areas as it relates to the power slot, the volt meter works its way up out of the slot rather quickly, and then just goes dark, hasn't actually fallen out.

2) The instructions say that to test the battery you are supposed to turn on the power to the bike (but not start it) and then turn off the headlights, as you know we cant do this without pulling a fuse. You get a reading but it is lower than it would be if the headlights were off. It works fine when the bike is on to verify the rate of charging.

All in all for $15 i am not too disappointed and it gives me some piece of mind. I plan to use it as a diagnostic tool and probably wont leave it plugged in all the time unless I find a way to ensure that it stays snug.

Good luck.
 

jajpko

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newventurer said:
Had it about a week now, and there are two things that you should know before buying.

1) As mentioned in other areas as it relates to the power slot, the volt meter works its way up out of the slot rather quickly, and then just goes dark, hasn't actually fallen out.

2) The instructions say that to test the battery you are supposed to turn on the power to the bike (but not start it) and then turn off the headlights, as you know we cant do this without pulling a fuse. You get a reading but it is lower than it would be if the headlights were off. It works fine when the bike is on to verify the rate of charging.

All in all for $15 i am not too disappointed and it gives me some piece of mind. I plan to use it as a diagnostic tool and probably wont leave it plugged in all the time unless I find a way to ensure that it stays snug.

Good luck.
I have a usb outlet that fits in the cig socket and it was coming out, so I wrapped a piece of electricians friction tape on the bottom side. I used one wrap and it stays in and won't vibrate out.
If the plug has an indent at the bottom, I think an o-ring would work also.
 

stevepsd

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I bought one of these off ebay (same as one being sold by a member over on ADVrider that I have had on my Tiger for a couple of years - works great). Cost is $29 shipped to the US. Completely waterproof and I have not destroyed it yet.

I mounted it on a shelf I made, but with double sided Velcro and it's small side you can mount it easily anywhere.

http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=1988.0
 

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tomatocity

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I had a 12 volt cable for an iPhone and it kept sliding up thte 12V Outlet. Guess it is the 12V Outlet that is the problem. Might as well replace it with a different 12V Outlet.
 

fredz43

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newventurer said:
Had it about a week now, and there are two things that you should know before buying.



2) The instructions say that to test the battery you are supposed to turn on the power to the bike (but not start it) and then turn off the headlights, as you know we cant do this without pulling a fuse. You get a reading but it is lower than it would be if the headlights were off. It works fine when the bike is on to verify the rate of charging.


Good luck.
I believe that if you check, you will see that our headlights don't come on until the engine starts.
 

newventurer

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You are correct, it's the driving lights, signal lights and my HID light (of course this is the hog).
 

colorider

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markjenn

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Since our standard cig lighter socket isn't much good for anything, I too have been looking for a cheap, simple, unobtrusive voltmeter that plugs into the lighter socket. I haven't found exactly what I'm looking for, but something that is even smaller and simpler....



Dunno if this one would do better with "vibrate out" issues - the bane of cig lighter sockets.

On the FJR, the Datel voltmeters were well-liked, but you've got to cut a square hole in a panel which is a bit of work. I found Martel LCD voltmeter that only required drilling a small hole, but it went tits up at the first wiff of rain.

- Mark
 

fender5803

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tomatocity said:
I had a 12 volt cable for an iPhone and it kept sliding up thte 12V Outlet. Guess it is the 12V Outlet that is the problem. Might as well replace it with a different 12V Outlet.
Thanks for the info-!!
I have the same trouble with my iGo plug, it comes loose every couple hours or so. I like like o ring and tape suggestions. The o ring might need a groove to keep it in place.
FWIW I saw a thread here by Ellizilla about her trip to PowerLet Co. (hope I have the names and spelling correct). There may have been a fix for this outlet or swap it out ....
Best,
DT
 

elizilla

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mcbrien said:
I've been useing one ( actually several ) of these on several different bikes .
Hopefully an S10 next with good results .
http://signaldynamics.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=56&category_id=14&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=77&vmcchk=1&Itemid=77
I have installed those in several bikes. They worked great, except in the TDMs. On both my TDM and my partner's TDM, the light is red and sometimes even flashing red before the bike is started, yellow at idle, switches to red if the brakes are applied, flashes red/yellow when the signals are on, and by the time a long traffic light changes it's gone to solid red. It only goes green when you get the revs up a little higher. Since it's been doing this in both TDMs for some years now, and I have gone over my TDM's electrical system with a fine tooth comb looking for a fault and found none, and I have never had any other symptoms that would lead me to suspect a problem, my conclusion is that "normal" for a TDM doesn't match the ranges that the Signal Dynamics voltmeter is calibrated for.

But it worked great on my DL1000. I saw green everywhere I expected to see green, and when my battery died, I got a month of yellow lights as warning. I put off doing anything about it, but stopped taking the DL1000 on trips, just rode it around town. Sure enough, the voltmeter was right on target - the battery completely died about a month after it started warning me.

I have one still new in box sitting on my workbench, that I bought to install in my VFR and never got around to installing. I'll happily put it in the Super10, but unless someone here can confirm that the electrical system matches its calibration, I'll be careful to install it somewhere where it can be swapped out easily if I end up with a TDM-style light show from it.
 

Kevs

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stevepsd said:
I bought one of these off ebay (same as one being sold by a member over on ADVrider that I have had on my Tiger for a couple of years - works great). Cost is $29 shipped to the US. Completely waterproof and I have not destroyed it yet.

I mounted it on a shelf I made, but with double sided Velcro and it's small side you can mount it easily anywhere.

http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=1988.0
May I ask, where to do tap the volt meter to?
Ignition?
Meter?

& with what method of tapping used?

Curious as I hv the similar volt meter but yet to hook up.

Cheers!
Kev
 

stevepsd

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Kevs said:
May I ask, where to do tap the volt meter to?
Ignition?
Meter?

& with what method of tapping used?

Curious as I hv the similar volt meter but yet to hook up.

Cheers!
Kev
Mine is hooked up to my FZ-1 fuse block.....however you can connect it to any switched power source.

There are plenty on the right side of the bike, you could use the blue/black wire on the heated grip connector (it's the spare 4 pin connector located under/behind the two fuse blocks under the right side panel).

I would use a Posi-Lock connector to tap into the switched source. http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Posi-Lock/posi-lock.html

-steve
 

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Kevs

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stevepsd said:
Mine is hooked up to my FZ-1 fuse block.....however you can connect it to any switched power source.

There are plenty on the right side of the bike, you could use the blue/black wire on the heated grip connector (it's the spare 4 pin connector located under/behind the two fuse blocks under the right side panel).

I would use a Posi-Lock connector to tap into the switched source. http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Posi-Lock/posi-lock.html

-steve
sweet.

it's something similar that I did on my previous bike, tapping after the relay from the Batt's +ve, before to the fuse block.(I term mine as Distribution Box)

DIY-ing with a terminal block


a couple of Fuse holders


Relays, some wiring and proper wire connectors to run around the bike.

cheaper than purchasing online thou...

or maybe I prefer to DIY...
 

Tremor38

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Kevs said:
sweet.

Relays, some wiring and proper wire connectors to run around the bike.
And a inline fuse for each item you hook-up. Definitely a cheaper way to go, but I'd rather have all of my fuzes in one, nicely arranged, easily accessable location. To each his own though.
 

elizilla

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