Valve adjustment - more lessons learned

jrusell

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So, checking the manual to fully understand and be prepared to DIY. It calls out a valve lapper to remove the valve lifters and pads. Is this anything more than a suction pad on a stick? What are folks using for this?

It does look like the CCTs have increased prices. OEM $190-233. Graves manual is $140. What has to be removed to check and adjust the manual CCTs?

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I just use a magnet to remove valve buckets and pads.

To adjust a manual adjuster you just remove the small round cover so you can get a socket on the crank bolt. Turn the engine over a few times taking out any slack there might be in the adjuster. Then back the adjuster off slightly as in the instructions, tighten down the lock nut and you are good to go.
 

Jdomperez

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Apr 29, 2019
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Thanks guys. Should have done a little more research before I dove into this.
I am sitting at about 24K and am thinking about performing this at 30k and I'm wondering other than this thread, where are some of the best places to do research for doing this DIY?

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Boris

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midlands. UK
I am sitting at about 24K and am thinking about performing this at 30k and I'm wondering other than this thread, where are some of the best places to do research for doing this DIY?

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this video might be useful

 

jrusell

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Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
I am sitting at about 24K and am thinking about performing this at 30k and I'm wondering other than this thread, where are some of the best places to do research for doing this DIY?

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Tenman

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2/16/16 Checked @ 24k miles in a Louisiana dealership. I'm at 55K miles now and haven't had them checked again. Fires right up and runs fine. When I got there to pick it up (90 miles). They tried to charge me about $150 more than the quote I got over the phone. I told them I had an email with $407 quote. They agreed. But they did try to jack the price up. The mechanic may be a good guy. The office not so good. Any thoughts on these numbers?IMG_0351.JPG
 

holligl

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2/16/16 Checked @ 24k miles in a Louisiana dealership. I'm at 55K miles now and haven't had them checked again. Fires right up and runs fine. When I got there to pick it up (90 miles). They tried to charge me about $150 more than the quote I got over the phone. I told them I had an email with $407 quote. They agreed. But they did try to jack the price up. The mechanic may be a good guy. The office not so good. Any thoughts on these numbers?View attachment 71492
There should be 4 measurements per cylinder, 2 intake, 2 exhaust. It looks like they only wrote half of them. I would be surprised if they were identical, maybe they just wrote the tightest one. Showing both metric and inches adds to the confusion. As long as they were in spec...

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SkunkWorks

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2/16/16 Checked @ 24k miles in a Louisiana dealership. I'm at 55K miles now and haven't had them checked again. Fires right up and runs fine. When I got there to pick it up (90 miles). They tried to charge me about $150 more than the quote I got over the phone. I told them I had an email with $407 quote. They agreed. But they did try to jack the price up. The mechanic may be a good guy. The office not so good. Any thoughts on these numbers?View attachment 71492
According to the Specs listed, your #1 Exhaust is too tight ?
 

Tenman

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There should be 4 measurements per cylinder, 2 intake, 2 exhaust. It looks like they only wrote half of them. I would be surprised if they were identical, maybe they just wrote the tightest one. Showing both metric and inches adds to the confusion. As long as they were in spec...

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I was thinking the same thing. Kinda confused
 

holligl

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According to the Specs listed, your #1 Exhaust is too tight ?
I would agree. Tenman, not sure what your recourse might be, but they should have adjusted with it out of spec. It would have been much quicker and cheaper to have done it while the cover was off. Someone who has done it can better comment on how much more effort/cost would have been, but probably 1/3 to 1/2 more time. I got 2 quotes for $800 to actually check and make adjustments (plus minor parts). I've got the parts on hand and will be doing it myself, given those estimates.

Was the photo your notes, or the mechanic's?
I would definately call to press them on why they did not adjust.

We are trying to collect results over on a RESULTS thread. So far the worst out of spec was about .18mm but it did get adjusted. One guy had one at .21 and he called it close enough, but that was his call, not a mechanic being paid to do the job.

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holligl

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Just a thought... was the additional $150 to actually make the adjustment?? If so, they should have given you after adjustment results.

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Tenman

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This check was 4 years ago and that was the notes they gave me. They didn't say why the price was more than they told me it would be. Sort of a "we got caught" look on the girl's face. I never saw anybody in charge. Just the messenger. Not allowed near the shop door or a mechanic.
 

holligl

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This check was 4 years ago and that was the notes they gave me. They didn't say why the price was more than they told me it would be. Sort of a "we got caught" look on the girl's face. I never saw anybody in charge. Just the messenger. Not allowed near the shop door or a mechanic.
I would say you are due. Maybe a lesson learned, if you get the job done elsewhere, give them a form to fill out, measurements before and after adustment for 8 valves, cylinder 1 is on the left, 2 on the right, left and right intake and exhaust. Suggest sticking with mm since that is what the shims are, it is fewer decimal points, and easier to remember the specs.

If you get a quote, ask for two prices, a check only, and for the additional adjustment. The later price could vary slightly depending on number needing adjustment.

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ballisticexchris

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This is all new to me getting labor quotes over the phone. I always go in person and check out the shop and tech before getting a quote.
 

WJBertrand

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This is all new to me getting labor quotes over the phone. I always go in person and check out the shop and tech before getting a quote.
I guess if you’ve never been to the shop before, but for myself, I’m already familiar with all the local shops. Phone quotes are pretty common for me.


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ballisticexchris

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I guess if you’ve never been to the shop before, but for myself, I’m already familiar with all the local shops. Phone quotes are pretty common for me.


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I've been to a lot of shops but never considered getting a quote over the phone. That's just me. I am very picky and particular on where and who I let work on my bike or cars.
 

ocgeek

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Aug 20, 2019
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Italy
FWIW I checked my valves recently and did a writeup over on ADVR. My airbox mod might be of interest; https://advrider.com/f/threads/bergdonks-xt1200z.898838/page-15#post-40419016
Hi,
have a Q on the breather hose mod you did... i know that PITA hose too... so that is indeed a good idea

The reason for cutting the hose in TWO places was to insert another peace of hose in the middle to route it out a bit from down under the air box ?
Do you think that just cutting the hose in ONE place wouldn't ease so much the task of removing the bitc.... out ?

thanks
 

holligl

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So I've waded into this, hoping to reuse the original 2014 CCT. Trying to reset it is going no where. It seems to be hung up on the furthest clip to the left/top (retention I think). I assume the groove is tapered to allow the rod to go in as you turn it. Tried the vise, no go. Now trying a shopsmith setup, but it still won't go in⁰l. The rod spins freely, and in and out in that very limited range of clips. Suggestions??


Almost bought a graves manual CCT, but hoped to save a few bucks.

Results at 55 kmi


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gv550

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Sep 14, 2016
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792
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Listowel, Ontario, Canada
I mount a c-clamp in a vice, then slowly clamp down on the cct while rotating the shaft. It requires very little clamping force, and you must turn the shaft steadily. If you put too much clamp force the shaft won’t retract, go gently, slow and steady once it begins moving.85528E37-3771-4C0A-BC2B-B638E5F1D4FE.jpeg
 
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