Valve adjust advise

[Andyb43]

Another one sorry, just stripped down my cams and need confirmation on the new shims I require in case I make a mistake? Cheers been sat down trying to do the figures and now got a headache lol

 

[Andyb43]

Another one sorry, just stripped down my cams and need confirmation on the new shims I require in case I make a mistake? Cheers been sat down trying to do the figures and now got a headache lolView attachment 108522

This is what I have come up with so far !

 

[tntmo]

Your math looks good. The valves get tighter over time, so going to the high end of the adjustment is what I'd probably do.

 

[Andyb43]

Your math looks good. The valves get tighter over time, so going to the high end of the adjustment is what I'd probably do.

Cheers Tntmo great to get a fresh set of eyes it’s the first check after 50.000 miles

 

[thughes317]

Your math looks good. The valves get tighter over time, so going to the high end of the adjustment is what I'd probably do.

Seems to me that after 50K miles, you'd want to set them in the middle (ideal) part of the range. The logic being that most of the major wear has occurred prior to this check and they shouldn't wear too terribly much after this?

Calling @~TABASCO~

 

[~TABASCO~]

Seems to me that after 50K miles, you'd want to set them in the middle (ideal) part of the range. The logic being that most of the major wear has occurred prior to this check and they shouldn't wear too terribly much after this?

Calling @~TABASCO~

I recently looked a valve train with 120K. Five valves were ‘out’ of spec. Several were technically out of spec but relatively close ‘to being out’. One exhaust- and one intake were WAY out. My take is and always will be to check them every 25k. You never know what mystery valve that might be out of spec……. If you then decide to say screw it…. I’ll ride it all whacked out, then at least the owner knows. Any owner that sticks there head in the sand and pretends there bike is just fine with no check, this would not be best for this mechanical machine.
I’ve actually helped about 6 people over the years that did not do valve maintenance. Bike stopped running because of out of spec induced carbon and or the worst was a cracked exhaust valve and damaged seat.
Anyhow, if anyone has questions just let me know. Thank you

 

[Andyb43]

I recently looked a valve train with 120K. Five valves were ‘out’ of spec. Several were technically out of spec but relatively close ‘to being out’. One exhaust- and one intake were WAY out. My take is and always will be to check them every 25k. You never know what mystery valve that might be out of spec……. If you then decide to say screw it…. I’ll ride it all whacked out, then at least the owner knows. Any owner that sticks there head in the sand and pretends there bike is just fine with no check, this would not be best for this mechanical machine.
I’ve actually helped about 6 people over the years that did not do valve maintenance. Bike stopped running because of out of spec induced carbon and or the worst was a cracked exhaust valve and damaged seat.
Anyhow, if anyone has questions just let me know. Thank you

Cheers Tabasco what do you recommend? Do I go for the low valve gaps at 22,23,26,26 or 28,26,27,28?

 

[~TABASCO~]

Cheers Tabasco what do you recommend? Do I go for the low valve gaps at 22,23,26,26 or 28,26,27,28?

I believe I typically do "in the middle".... Ive seen sides go loose and tight... I don't like to "guess" what they are suppose to do.... My rule of thumb is to adjust them in "the middle" range and then it give you some 'float' either way for the next 25K miles or 40Km.... Typically exhaust get tight, and intake get loose,,,, but Ive seen it go both ways many times... No rhyme or reason........

If you have any other questions don't hesitate to reach out......