Panman
Active Member
Keep the FJR and by the S-10, the only way to Fly.
Trade fjr for tenere
- Thread starter s.ga.rider
- Start date
LMAO! First: "your results may vary" is the key phrase. By the way....I agree with everything. Second: somebody from the great white north....using "y'all"….greatness!! As far as the hard starting goes....MY experience with it was when I would turn the key to "ON", and immediately hit the starter button. It would start, and stall almost instantaneously. If I waited for it to "do it's thing", it would start, and stay running. My battery is about done for. It's been cranking slow, but will start every time . MY opinion is that it's in the Gen II's programing.
Squibb
Well-Known Member
I run both - each has it's strengths & weaknesses, but both are sound investments IMHO. My pair are 2014 ES bikes.
I was thinking of changing the FJR next season, but after checking out the options, what is there that will truly, reliably ace the old FJR as an all round tourer. Not a lot, without spending stupid money it seems.
I was thinking of changing the FJR next season, but after checking out the options, what is there that will truly, reliably ace the old FJR as an all round tourer. Not a lot, without spending stupid money it seems.
SHUMBA
Well-Known Member
Hmmm...
Go fast, definitely an FJR.
Comfort and time to enjoy the scenery, or explore what's down on that gravel road I've always wanted to ride on. = The Super Tenere
JMHO
SHUMBA
Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk
EricV
Riding, farkling, riding...
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Back to the actual question the OP asked. What to look for in the used S10? It's a negotiation. Take a screw driver and ping the spokes on both wheels looking for flat tone ones. Spokes can be re-torqued fairly easily, but if you find loose ones, offer the argument that you'd have to pay to have the wheels trued to be sure, considering the 14k on the bike and unknown how well it's been kept before you.
Take it for a ride and check that the CC works. That can be an expensive issue to resolve, or something as simple as lubing the brake lever/pedal. If the CC light is flashing and won't take a set, you might get them to throw in fixing that issue on their dime as part of the deal. Cheap or expensive, have it written in to the deal that they will repair it.
Take note of any other dash lights that don't go off too. The ABS light on a Gen II doesn't go off until you start riding. (The Gen I light cycled off with the other dash lights after going thru the test mode at each key on event.)
Take a close look at the brake pads. Especially the rear pads. Due to the linked braking system, rear pads often wear faster than the front pads do. If they are suspect at all, ask them to toss in a set of pads on the deal. Cheaper for them then for you to buy on your own. Easy for you to change yourself when needed.
2014 you say? Why heck, that's 6 years old. Has the brake/clutch fluid been flushed? Has the coolant been flushed? How old are the date codes on the tires? What are the brake pads like? Bet it's still got the original air filter & spark plugs too. People don't do preventative maintenance when they are trading in a bike. All of these are costs for you to do or have done, add up how much and beat them up over it.
If you really want to go there, Yamaha recommends the brake LINES be replaced every 4 years. That's right there in the owner's manual. Cost that out. Check out dirty the oil is too. Full Synthetic oil can easily run $50-60 for 4 quarts/liters, plus the $15 for a filter.
Does it have the owner's manual with the bike? Does it have luggage and/or all three locks for the luggage that are supposed to come with the bike? If not, ask them to provide those as part of the deal. Do they have the key code for the bike? If not, ask them to get that info from Yamaha, if possible.
Get the VIN and call Yamaha Customer Service - 800-962-7926 They can tell you if it has a YES extended warranty on it. This is still possible if it was a left over and sold later, plus the PO bought the 48 month YES contract. Yamaha has been offering an additional 24 months as well. The YES is transferable at no cost. Takes the dealer 5 minutes to do. If you buy the bike, (and they are a Yamaha dealer), get them to do the transfer and get paperwork on that, then call D&H Cycles in Cullman, AL and have them check if they can add 2 more years and at what cost, (if you're interested in that). D&H will give you the best price over the phone.
You're doing them a favor buying the bike from them before the end of the year. You may not actually put that money into the new to you bike, but you certainly need to address some preventative maintenance and find out where you stand on some of those things.
You would be in a stronger negotiating position if you were not doing the trade in, so there is that. Use your judgement and good luck. As with the others, I'm also a former FJR owner. 160k on the Feej and 150k on two S10s.
Take it for a ride and check that the CC works. That can be an expensive issue to resolve, or something as simple as lubing the brake lever/pedal. If the CC light is flashing and won't take a set, you might get them to throw in fixing that issue on their dime as part of the deal. Cheap or expensive, have it written in to the deal that they will repair it.
Take note of any other dash lights that don't go off too. The ABS light on a Gen II doesn't go off until you start riding. (The Gen I light cycled off with the other dash lights after going thru the test mode at each key on event.)
Take a close look at the brake pads. Especially the rear pads. Due to the linked braking system, rear pads often wear faster than the front pads do. If they are suspect at all, ask them to toss in a set of pads on the deal. Cheaper for them then for you to buy on your own. Easy for you to change yourself when needed.
2014 you say? Why heck, that's 6 years old. Has the brake/clutch fluid been flushed? Has the coolant been flushed? How old are the date codes on the tires? What are the brake pads like? Bet it's still got the original air filter & spark plugs too. People don't do preventative maintenance when they are trading in a bike. All of these are costs for you to do or have done, add up how much and beat them up over it.
If you really want to go there, Yamaha recommends the brake LINES be replaced every 4 years. That's right there in the owner's manual. Cost that out. Check out dirty the oil is too. Full Synthetic oil can easily run $50-60 for 4 quarts/liters, plus the $15 for a filter.
Does it have the owner's manual with the bike? Does it have luggage and/or all three locks for the luggage that are supposed to come with the bike? If not, ask them to provide those as part of the deal. Do they have the key code for the bike? If not, ask them to get that info from Yamaha, if possible.
Get the VIN and call Yamaha Customer Service - 800-962-7926 They can tell you if it has a YES extended warranty on it. This is still possible if it was a left over and sold later, plus the PO bought the 48 month YES contract. Yamaha has been offering an additional 24 months as well. The YES is transferable at no cost. Takes the dealer 5 minutes to do. If you buy the bike, (and they are a Yamaha dealer), get them to do the transfer and get paperwork on that, then call D&H Cycles in Cullman, AL and have them check if they can add 2 more years and at what cost, (if you're interested in that). D&H will give you the best price over the phone.
You're doing them a favor buying the bike from them before the end of the year. You may not actually put that money into the new to you bike, but you certainly need to address some preventative maintenance and find out where you stand on some of those things.
You would be in a stronger negotiating position if you were not doing the trade in, so there is that. Use your judgement and good luck. As with the others, I'm also a former FJR owner. 160k on the Feej and 150k on two S10s.
B
ballisticexchris
Guest
+1 here on the battery. The OEM one is really weak.
The spokes take forever to bed in. At over 5000 miles my spokes need to be tightened after almost every single ride.
As Eric stated change the brake lines. They are way overdue for replacement. Why Yamaha recommends every 4 years is strange. I always changed all my OEM rubber ones to steel braided at around the 3 year mark at most.
Check the steering head bearings. Mine were loose at the 600 mile service.
Inspect for worn out fork bushings. At 14,000 miles they are probable worn and due for replacement. Easy to check at the dealer. When bike is on center stand rock the forks front to back. There should be no movement in the tubes.
Take a hard look at the foot peg mounts. Those little tabs will bend/tear off the frame next to the weld in a hard tip over.
Inspect the subframe for damage. One good tip over in the rocks or running top box is notorious for bending and cracking subframes.
Go further than just changing air filter. Have the dealer tip up the tank and look inside the clean air section of air box. Make sure it was sealed up and no dirt got past a cracked/loose boot.
Make sure the handlebars are centered. Mine were off by around 1/16"-1/8" when new (it was overlooked at PDI).
Go over every single nut, bolt, and fastener you can get a wrench on.
The spokes take forever to bed in. At over 5000 miles my spokes need to be tightened after almost every single ride.
As Eric stated change the brake lines. They are way overdue for replacement. Why Yamaha recommends every 4 years is strange. I always changed all my OEM rubber ones to steel braided at around the 3 year mark at most.
Check the steering head bearings. Mine were loose at the 600 mile service.
Inspect for worn out fork bushings. At 14,000 miles they are probable worn and due for replacement. Easy to check at the dealer. When bike is on center stand rock the forks front to back. There should be no movement in the tubes.
Take a hard look at the foot peg mounts. Those little tabs will bend/tear off the frame next to the weld in a hard tip over.
Inspect the subframe for damage. One good tip over in the rocks or running top box is notorious for bending and cracking subframes.
Go further than just changing air filter. Have the dealer tip up the tank and look inside the clean air section of air box. Make sure it was sealed up and no dirt got past a cracked/loose boot.
Make sure the handlebars are centered. Mine were off by around 1/16"-1/8" when new (it was overlooked at PDI).
Go over every single nut, bolt, and fastener you can get a wrench on.
s.ga.rider
Well-Known Member
Thanks for all that info. Good points and very helpful. I texted the sales guy and asked for the previous owners contact info but they have been closed. I had planned on doing all the maintenance when I got it home. Clutch/brake lines, coolant etc. Ive always done all the work on my fjr which can be a pain getting the plastics off.
Im going to talk with the dealer and see if I can get the po contact info and make sure everything is good and then start stripping parts off the fjr.
Im going to talk with the dealer and see if I can get the po contact info and make sure everything is good and then start stripping parts off the fjr.
jb
New Member
Hello,
It has been awhile since I have posted here, buy I could not ignore this one...
I had a 2014 FJR ES for two years, before I sold and got a 2016 Super Tenere - ES. For me (and just for me... your impressions and decisions may be quite different...) :
The FJR is a rocket, and very smooth with the well tuned inline 4...it will get from A to B faster than most motorcycles with reasonable comfort... there is a reason most of the Iron Butt winners are FJR'S. I thoroughly enjoyed the speed and smooth performance...
The reasons I went with the Super Tenere had mostly to do with versatility and long-distance comfort. Sure, the ST vertical twin's valve train sounds like a bucket of bolts (I remedied this with good earplugs...;-), but it actually is very smooth on the highway. Long distance (and I am talking 3000 miles in 5 days, several times... - and 2 trips of equal distance planned for this year)...it is very, very smooth, and also, more stable in windy conditions - (counter-intuitive, I know, given that is is taller and lighter...) - I think it may have to do with COG being lower, and spoke wheels... the ES is basically the same for both. I also far prefer the Super Tenere riding position (this could be age-related... I am crowding 70, although I will not openly admit it when asked...;-)
RE: versatility - I have done some gravel (including some gnarly stuff near Moab last year...;-) - and the Super Tenere performed admirably (although disclaimer: I have not done much off road overall, truth be told.). The Tenere was completely stable and I can't say enough about the ES, for ease of transition from road to not-so-good road...
AND, regarding your initial question/dilemma (and this is also purely personal preference) - I would test the waters on the FJR resale (bearing in mind this is the worst time of year to sell a bike - although It may be better in your neck of the woods...). I have seen some really good deals on 2018 and 2019 Super Teneres... so - I wonder - could you buy new now at bargain-basement/winter prices, with some good factory incentives - and wait a few weeks to sell the FJR yourself?
Good Luck with your decision,
--John
It has been awhile since I have posted here, buy I could not ignore this one...
I had a 2014 FJR ES for two years, before I sold and got a 2016 Super Tenere - ES. For me (and just for me... your impressions and decisions may be quite different...) :
The FJR is a rocket, and very smooth with the well tuned inline 4...it will get from A to B faster than most motorcycles with reasonable comfort... there is a reason most of the Iron Butt winners are FJR'S. I thoroughly enjoyed the speed and smooth performance...
The reasons I went with the Super Tenere had mostly to do with versatility and long-distance comfort. Sure, the ST vertical twin's valve train sounds like a bucket of bolts (I remedied this with good earplugs...;-), but it actually is very smooth on the highway. Long distance (and I am talking 3000 miles in 5 days, several times... - and 2 trips of equal distance planned for this year)...it is very, very smooth, and also, more stable in windy conditions - (counter-intuitive, I know, given that is is taller and lighter...) - I think it may have to do with COG being lower, and spoke wheels... the ES is basically the same for both. I also far prefer the Super Tenere riding position (this could be age-related... I am crowding 70, although I will not openly admit it when asked...;-)
RE: versatility - I have done some gravel (including some gnarly stuff near Moab last year...;-) - and the Super Tenere performed admirably (although disclaimer: I have not done much off road overall, truth be told.). The Tenere was completely stable and I can't say enough about the ES, for ease of transition from road to not-so-good road...
AND, regarding your initial question/dilemma (and this is also purely personal preference) - I would test the waters on the FJR resale (bearing in mind this is the worst time of year to sell a bike - although It may be better in your neck of the woods...). I have seen some really good deals on 2018 and 2019 Super Teneres... so - I wonder - could you buy new now at bargain-basement/winter prices, with some good factory incentives - and wait a few weeks to sell the FJR yourself?
Good Luck with your decision,
--John
s.ga.rider
Well-Known Member
Excellent review. Thanks. In my area the tenere and the fjr have horrible resale value. My initial offer and the dealers counter was my trade and $3000 I offered $1000 and they said no. Now they say yes which I think is reasonable
B
ballisticexchris
Guest
It's the same thing where I live. Not many riders want the Super Tenere or FJR. When I was searching for mine I considered both the BMW GS and the KTM.
The hot sellers right now in the "adventure segment" are the KTM 1290's, BMW GS, and new Ducati Multistrada 1260 Enduro. For everyday street performance the new Yamaha R1cant be beat.
s.ga.rider
Well-Known Member
s.ga.rider
Well-Known Member
Well, I did it! The hour drive back on the tenere made me realize how cramped the fjr is.
MonkeyBut
Fuel Whore
It's a Beaut!!! Congratulations!! A friend let me ride his 2016 FJR and although it was fast, smooth, handled well, did i mention fast,? Oh and it was fast, it was a little to cramped for me at 5'11" The Connie was also on my radar when looking for a new motorcycle. Glad I went with the S10. No regrets. Have fun, be safe and let the farkling begin!!!
Baja Explorer
We Dream the Imposible !!
Congratulations !!!!
SHUMBA
Well-Known Member
Thanks for your input,
I think I have made up my mind to keep my Tenere and give the FJR a miss.
Maybe if I was a little younger, but I'll be 70 in 2020, er, I hope.
SHUMBA
Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk
CONGRATULATIONS!
I kept my FJR for a short while after getting the first Tenere but it was easy to see that I was only riding the Tenere.
I kept my FJR for a short while after getting the first Tenere but it was easy to see that I was only riding the Tenere.
SHUMBA
Well-Known Member
Thanks, I think I am now cured.
That is, I was eyeing an FJR. Na, going to keep my Tenere for sure.
SHUMBA
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dang
New Member
im having a hard to start problem for the second time since i bought this 2014 bike in October. i may buy a battery. what brand battery did you get? thanks
Regardless of brand get a yt14 not 12. Same case size but more amps.