To strip or not to strip

Roger39

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Hi fellow Tenererians, I have a 2015 model that has a bit of frame corrosion. I'm thinking that the best way to do things is to completely strip the bike and get the frame powdercoated......has anyone stripped their bike completely and was it a huge headache to do?
I've got a bit of spanner experience but I don't want to end up regretting the idea.
 

lund

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One of my tech is a Yamaha certified and trained. Last week interestingly enough he did a frame swap on an S10. If I recall was around 15hrs of shop time, in and out the door. In one day out the next day.
I would have to go back and check the billing time for the job.
I don't think its a tough job if your mechanically inclined.
 

~TABASCO~

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Hi fellow Tenererians, I have a 2015 model that has a bit of frame corrosion. I'm thinking that the best way to do things is to completely strip the bike and get the frame powdercoated......has anyone stripped their bike completely and was it a huge headache to do?
I've got a bit of spanner experience but I don't want to end up regretting the idea.


Yep... Ive performed this job.......... Not "hard", but lots of time... The engine is really heavy to get out and back in but it's just all nuts and bolts..... The rear sub-frame removal is tricky with the ABS.... Even harder if you have an "ES" model.......

Just time really.....
 

Squibb

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Corrosion....in RSA? Sounds unusual, what is the back story - mileage, accident history, service record, value (8Y/O) I wonder?

It's a huge job, a restoration project that I doubt will improve it's perceived market value significantly. It's amazing how ACF50 & some rattle can work can tidy a scruffy bike.

Whatever, pics awaited.
 

Madhatter

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to strip or not to strip, I got excited , wrong forum .... Roger 39 take photos of where things are and where they came from and label things , we are not all "tabasco " talented . good luck.
 

Cyclops66

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Engine removal.... Header studs will probably break off.
Muffler gasket will be in pieces and bolts will be reduced to a thin pin rust connection that will require a new bolt and creative drilling to cleanout welded nut
Look at the "Engine positioning bolt. My engine wouldnt come out til I took the stress back off and loosened this. You can make a tool to remove and loosen it out of an old socket.
 

Cyclops66

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I hit post instead of preview
Order the sruds and nuts if they break off muffler gasket(optional after checking muffler bolt may need both)
I removed broken studs with a washer over hole to prevent alum damage and welded a nit on after a few hits with propane torch and wax and they came right out.
I also replaced the copper rings in the exhaust ports the sorta seal the pipe to cylinder head. they were corroded due to NY winter. you probably dont need them

Id check all the bolts that will break and then order as needed but it is a pretty intense job. take pictures as hose cable routing should be put back to stock, 15 hours is for a guy that has done it and has tech access to better pics.

I dont think its worth the effort unless your married. If you rattle can it most likely it will look the same in a year but you have all the tech assist here. Every time I ask for help or pose a question it is answered with a better solution than I could dream up. Experience is better than bullets.

Oh yea if you do valves and have to shim the CCT was the biggest pain in the ass. I used a socket in a drill to spin in the plunger too far and learned it needs to be in the next clip slot or it wont pop out. So I put it in a vice and slowly let it out til it locked into the next slot.

There is video that shows it on utube.
Good luck!
 

lund

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I'ed like to see pictures of this bike, how bad is it?
If its bad maybe just replacing it is best, was it ran in salt water, if not I doubt its that bad.
Stripping the bike is no big deal, its a good time to replace all the bearings/bushings in the frame, you will have to pull all of them as you cannot powder coat the frame with bearing/bushing in it.
So be prepared to spend some $$$.
The cool thing is it will look like new again and black is now only an option, we have powder coated a few frames over the years for customers (different bikes) and they alway turn out really nice.
If you like the bike that much, I wouldn't hesitate.
 

lund

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A blue frame would look really cool on that bike, you can see it has been touched up with a spray bomb. So hard to tell how bad it is.
 

Wallkeeper

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once rust starts you will keep chasing it forever until you strip down to bare steel. So, the choice is keep doing some patch repairs regularly or a lot of work once.IMG_0028.jpeg

I did this as a complete tear down. Media blast to bare steel, powdercoat with Mil grade primer, top coat with super durable TGIC. Final film thickness averages 4 mils or 100 microns. Test panels of same system passed 5000 hour cyclic testing without failing. For you ISO fans, this will exceed CM5
 

AusTexS10

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once rust starts you will keep chasing it forever until you strip down to bare steel. So, the choice is keep doing some patch repairs regularly or a lot of work once.View attachment 105714

I did this as a complete tear down. Media blast to bare steel, powdercoat with Mil grade primer, top coat with super durable TGIC. Final film thickness averages 4 mils or 100 microns. Test panels of same system passed 5000 hour cyclic testing without failing. For you ISO fans, this will exceed CM5
Damn, that's absolutely beautiful. I had a 1971 RT1 360 Enduro until it was stolen in 1972 while I was in class. Really enjoyed that bike. This pic is a stock pic and not my bike (never got any pics back then). Another I had that I bought as a basket case was a Bultaco Pursang 250 that I stripped down and rebuilt from the frame up. A fun bike but this was early 1970s without internet so I was never able to find the rear brake part that needed replacing; had one hell of a front brake to haul it down, but took a lot more finesse than I had to delicately brake from speed with only the front working, lol. Both of these bikes had very simple assembly units with which to work and none of the "crowding" of modern bike assembly, literally wysiwyg. Bikes and life were both much simpler then.
 

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