throttle body sync

[Wheelin]

Well, boys and girls, I really screwed the pooch on my TB sync. Tried a digisync, tried a twinmax, etc. (Nope, I don't have the fabled Harmonizer and probably never will.) I tried turning the left throttle body screw to zero things out, using the right screw as a reference....nothing doing. Then I tried turning the right TB screw the 3/4 turn recommended in Fred Z's video....still couldn't get close, even with the screw nearly out. Hoping I can now ride my clunkety clunk bike to the nearest professional mechanic to figure out what in the bejeezuz I'm doing wrong. :'(

 

[RCinNC]

Whichever one was your standard (reference) cylinder, turn that screw back all the way in until it seats, then don't touch that one and just make adjustments on the other one. If you still have problems getting them to synch, you can try the off-idle stumble fix, and turn your standard throttle body screw out for 3/4 of a turn, then synch the throttle bodies again just using the non-standard throttle body screw. Don't bounce back and forth by trying to adjust both screws; that path leads to madness.

That's how I did mine, and it worked out fine. I use a Carbtune synchronizer.

 

[2daMax]

I have seen cases where the painted reference screw being the one adjusted and the other screw being the fully closed in (and then 3/4 out). I found this as there were no way to adjust the balance on the non-ref screw unless I screw in tighter but you really can't. So I work it the other way and got them to balance.

 

[Wheelin]

Thanks to both of you. I was using a digi sync and a twinmax and getting crazy readings in both of them. After that, I reasoned that the T fitting that I was using wasn’t providing a good seal, so I tried a different T fitting and shortened the hoses off the T fitting. Lo and behold, this brought the numbers much in line, and i was able to get the throttled bodies synced up. Lesson learned for this newbie. Thanks again.

 

[RonH]

I used a Morgan Carbtune to sync mine at 4000 miles and had to turn the right screw out 1/4 turn to sync, then got lucky and purchased the Harmonizer. It indicated I had to turn in the right screw back in 1/4 turn to sync, then at 8,000 miles had to turn in just slightly. I think if most just leaved the sync alone it would suffice. I rode the 2012 30,000 miles without syncing and it ran fine. More harm than good sometimes by using the wrong tool for the job in my opinion.

 

[SilverBullet]

...I think if most just leaved the sync alone it would suffice. I rode the 2012 30,000 miles without syncing and it ran fine. More harm than good sometimes by using the wrong tool for the job in my opinion.

+1

I have an electronic TBS tool, 'Carbmate' I think. I've checked mine twice in 110k miles. Each time it was only off a miniscule amount and zero impact/undectectable change in engine operation.

Sent from my SM-G860P using Tapatalk

 

[Wheelin]

I used a Morgan Carbtune to sync mine at 4000 miles and had to turn the right screw out 1/4 turn to sync, then got lucky and purchased the Harmonizer. It indicated I had to turn in the right screw back in 1/4 turn to sync, then at 8,000 miles had to turn in just slightly. I think if most just leaved the sync alone it would suffice. I rode the 2012 30,000 miles without syncing and it ran fine. More harm than good sometimes by using the wrong tool for the job in my opinion.

Yeah, you were VERY lucky. Even if I could find a Harmonizer, I’m sure that I would be charged a mint for it.

 

[2daMax]

I am a low tech person using home made manometer from aquarium tubes and T joints.

 

[Checkswrecks]

The amount to turn the first screw out is different between the Gen1 and Gen2 bikes. If you use the wrong one, it'll run rough, so my guess is that was what got you into this. Note that there are two separate threads on TBS as stickies at the top of the Power and Exhaust sub-forum - here:


http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?board=78.0

 

[Wheelin]

I am a low tech person using home made manometer from aquarium tubes and T joints.

Whatever works the best! I’m a gadget nerd, myself. ::021::

 

[Wheelin]

The amount to turn the first screw out is different between the Gen1 and Gen2 bikes. If you use the wrong one, it'll run rough, so my guess is that was what got you into this. Note that there are two separate threads on TBS as stickies at the top of the Power and Exhaust sub-forum - here:


http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?board=78.0

Cool, thanks for the link. This forum is so big that sometimes the lack of a correct search term can make a good thread hard to find.

 

[Checkswrecks]

We've tried to make the most common and useful ones into stickies.

 

[Wheelin]

We've tried to make the most common and useful ones into stickies.

I need to visit this form more often than I have in the past. I’m still getting used to the interface and making my way around the site.

 

[fredz43]

I guess I haven't been paying attention to this forum for a while and found the remark about Gen 1 and Gen 2 bikes requiring different adjustments on the reference TB interesting and if you use the same 3/4 turn adjustment on the Gen 2, you will have rough running. Either I'm doing something wrong or my Gen 2 is special, as I use the same 3/4 turn reference procedure on it that I used on my Gen 1 with the same good results. No rough running, no misfiring in cold weather. Over 30k miles on each. ???

 

[Jeff Milleman]

Did the same with my 15 gen2 , 3/4 out with the painted screw and adjusted the other to match , using the clear tube with trans fluid. Had to use black vacuum hose the 1st 6 inches coming out of the engine because the clear tube was getting hot and ca lapsing. Runs great

 

[Checkswrecks]

Fred -
When I used the 3/4 it ran OK, but it was smoother with the smaller setting. (iirc 1/8 turn)

 

[fredz43]

Fred -
When I used the 3/4 it ran OK, but it was smoother with the smaller setting. (iirc 1/8 turn)

Thanks. I'll try that next time.