Throttle body sync for 2015 model

[Shovelhead]

Service manual ain't made it here yet. I've read through the procedure in the sticky about the 3/4 turn out on the marked air screw but see nothing related to the 14-15 model bikes. I suspect the engines are the same but maybe not the symptoms that started this adjustment years back.

My bike has died several times while rolling to a stop, usually after a blip of the throttle. If I make a determined STOP, and let the bike completely idle down, I've found that it has rarely died, but could be my imagination as well. Bike now has a little over 1000 miles.

Yesterday I installed an Arrow header that I bought from Jaxon, along with other REALLY sweet goodies. ::26::
I want to do a throttle body sync before I run the bike much. I have a Carb Mate meter.

Questions --
1) where do I connect the 2 hoses?
Right side - the capped port just below the adjustment screw?
Left side - the same location has a short hose running up to a "gadget". Remove hose from port below the adjustment screw? What to do with removed hose to the "gadget"??
Damn I wish I had the manual.

2) Has anyone tried the 3/4 turn out deal with a Gen 2 bike?
I've read that in the past it did not work well for some guys.

3) So, should I back it out 3/4 turn, sync to that and run with it? .......or ?

Thanks, this a bit more techy than I'm accustomed to.

 

[Dogdaze]

There are various threads about stalling on a new bike. This is just one of the characteristics until about 4k miles when it really breaks in. I would hold off adjusting anything until that point, the engine does settle down and will smooth out, just my 2 cents.

 

[Shovelhead]

main concern right now is that I just installed a header.
I'm a carburetor man and never in my life have I not had to make air/fuel adjustments after changing pipes.
I'd like to check the sync for peace of mind.

 

[Dogdaze]

Well if it helps the engines are the same. Again, if it were me, I would have waited until the 4k before changing anything out.

http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=1973.0

 

[Shovelhead]

Thanks Dog, I've seen that. I was under the impression you didn't need to build a contraption with extra hoses to perform the sync.
Can I not attach my meter hoses directly without the extra plumbing?

 

[Bryce]

the contraption is simply a vacuum T (1/8th inch on all 3 IIRC) with a short section of vacuum hose.
put it in line with the hose so you can hook the 3rd hookup on the T to the carb-mate.

 

[Checkswrecks]

Thanks Dog, I've seen that. I was under the impression you didn't need to build a contraption with extra hoses to perform the sync.
Can I not attach my meter hoses directly without the extra plumbing?

You need to T in the (as I remember) left side, hence the extra.


The bike is running lean, which is why it stalls when you blip the throttle. I'd try the +3/4 turn.

 

[Shovelhead]

You need to T in the (as I remember) left side, hence the extra.


The bike is running lean, which is why it stalls when you blip the throttle. I'd try the +3/4 turn.

::008:: Thank you

So I need a barbed T and some hose. 1/8" ? Plastic T work fine?
**Is it necessary to clamp the hose at the T for the sync, I'm not going to leave it in place after I'm done.

**EDIT -- I looked back at the 30 page thread and that feller never clamped the hose at the T

 

[Dogdaze]

Please post you results so that others can see what results were gained from the sync. ::008::

 

[Checkswrecks]

::008:: Thank you

So I need a barbed T and some hose. 1/8" ? Plastic T work fine?
**Is it necessary to clamp the hose at the T for the sync, I'm not going to leave it in place after I'm done.

**EDIT -- I looked back at the 30 page thread and that feller never clamped the hose at the T

I'm doing this by memory so with that warning -
Yes, 1/8" from any auto parts store and plastic will definitely work.
You shouldn't need to clamp it if the hose fits tight on the barbs of the T.


Remember that you want hoses of equal length to your Carbmate/manometer/etc, which is why the extension for the other side.

 

[WJBertrand]

Interested in the procedure and outcome here as I have a '15 too. Some truth to the stalling sorting itself out. Mine stalled about 3 times early on but now approaching 8K it has not happened again recently.

 

[Shovelhead]

Remember the story about the monkey and the football.

When I first fired the bike up without adjusting either screw the meter told me they were balanced.
I then backed the painted right side screw out 3/4 turn and adjusted the left screw til they synced, which was about 1/4 turn out from the original position.
With the engine good and warm I blipped the throttle and when the R's dropped it sounded like it almost wanted to die.

I then synced with right screw backed out 1/2 turn, the left screw ended up where it was originally set. It didn't seem to stumble as bad after a throttle blip.

The trouble I have is not knowing what ghost I'm chasin..... I've read to back off the right screw 3/4 and then sync with the left.
I've also read to back both screws out 3/4 then sync with the left. What the consensus of the method?

It seems to me you could set the right screw from zero to ?? and still be able to sync.?

It would be nice to be able to ride the thing and see how it acts and make any other adjustments without taking a bunch of shit apart. I dang sure don't want to lean the thing out more than it already is.
First go at this for me so I really don't have a good understanding, but I will.

 

[Bryce]

The trouble I have is not knowing what ghost I'm chasin..... I've read to back off the right screw 3/4 and then sync with the left.
I've also read to back both screws out 3/4 then sync with the left. What the consensus of the method?

It seems to me you could set the right screw from zero to ?? and still be able to sync.?

I thought the idea of this was to back off 3/4 on the screw that's painted white. That could be either side... Just depends on how the bike was set up at the factory. Then adjust the non-painted screw until they are synced.

 

[tomatocity]

Riders Right: Turn the adjuster CW until closed then CCW 3/4 turn
Riders Left: Using a Harmonizer or the likes... Adjust this adjuster until the Throttle Bodies are Sync'd

 

[Shovelhead]

I thought the idea of this was to back off 3/4 on the screw that's painted white. That could be either side... Just depends on how the bike was set up at the factory. Then adjust the non-painted screw until they are synced.

yep, that's what i thought until I read that entire thread and found that some folks were doing it different and getting satisfied results.

The other day after I let the bike cool, I went back at it and decided to go with the consensus. I backed the painted screw out 3/4 and adjusted the other side to sync.

First ride the bike ran great but did die on me once at a stop sign ------ idled all the way down, blipped the throttle hard and she died.
Never did it again.

Thursday I carried the bride for about a hundred mile ride and never a hiccup. ::008::

I do have some gurgling on hard decel or downshift and suspect the header change is the culprit. It's not bad at all and am sure some fine tuning would straighten that out. All in the future. ;D

It still seems to have an erratic idle to me, especially when cold, like taking deeps breaths between 1000 ~1100 and 1200 R's.
It's a clattering sumbeetch. Makes the solid lifters in one of my Shovelheads sound all the more sweeter. >

 

[Riteris]

TB sync on a 2015

Hi all,

I know that there are dozens of pages here about synchronizing throttle bodies. Unfortunately, those threads have become muddled with information about both Generation one and Generation two bikes, as well as other chatter.

I have read conflicting information about how much to turn out the throttle screws on a Gen 2 bike.

Could we get some guidance from those with experience:



1) Should the throttle body screws on a Generation 2 US bike be turned out 270 degrees or is it something different?


2) Is this something that SHOULD be done on a Generation 2 bike?


THANK YOU!


Cheers,

Chris

 

[Checkswrecks]

Merged identical topics.
As I answered Riteris on ADV:

3/4 will work for the Gen2 but there's a different point where it's smoothest. It's discussed, starting with Post 447 in this thread:
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=1973.435


Bottom line was that ride34fun found 1/4 turn worked better then more of us found less as well. Somewhere between 1/8 to 1/2 turn is the sweet spot. For example, see Post #11 here:http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=17494.msg260937#msg260937

 

[mebgardner]

Remember that you want hoses of equal length to your Carbmate/manometer/etc, which is why the extension for the other side.

I closely read the "other" (now 34 page) thread, and could not find reference to what you're referring to in this quote.

I see the various pictures of the "T" setup, OK no problems there for me.

I read various posts suggesting 1/8" rubber "windshield wiper" hose, or 1/8" plastic hose, or 5/32" hose, OK I can sort that out (I'll use your suggestion, and find the 1/8" variety).

Various posts suggest checking the clear plastic "nipples" under the airbox, looking for water and / or oil, and clean them out if you find it, OK good can do.

Various posts suggest to replace the OEM rubber nipple vacuum caps on the TB's, because they wear out and then leak, OK good, I can check that too.

Various posts suggest not laving the "T" setup in place between services, because it could be a source of vacuum leak, OK good tip.

The thing that eludes me is, what length hoses to use, and where, so to make "...hoses of equal length" to the manometer?

I could not find that info.

Thanks!

 

[Checkswrecks]

Just try to be as equal as you can for length between the throttle bodies to the two sides of whatever you are using to measure.
The left throttle body requires a T, which adds a bit of length on it's own. Some people's definition for "a bit of length" can be a lot.

 

[mebgardner]

Just try to be as equal as you can for length between the throttle bodies to the two sides of whatever you are using to measure.
The left throttle body requires a T, which adds a bit of length on it's own. Some people's definition for "a bit of length" can be a lot.

OK, understood.

Here's what I'll do then. Since I don't know if the left TB OEM hose length is a critical length, I'll measure it. Then, I'll set it aside for re-installation after test complete.

Using that length measure, I'll deduct the "T" length from it (installed length), and then I'll cut a bit of 1/8" hose to match that final length.

Then, cut it in half, insert the "T", and re-measure. It should be the same length as the OEM bit.

OK, then measure and cut hose bits to the manometer such that all lengths of it are equal *to the TB tip". That could be important.

Said another way, each manometer leg will be of equal length to the TB connection point. On the left side, that includes the "T" arm and the bit of hose to the left TB. On the right, it's the length of connection direct to the right TB.

That should do it

I'll post up later what I measure.