tenere headlight adjuster

zman68

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hello all
been riding s10 for 2-3 weeks just can't find headlight adjuster
anyone can help or i'm just looking in wrong place .
any one had installed HID light and is there a place to hide a ballast .. looking for option.

thank you
 

Yahmy

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Thanks for the post. I found that from day 1 the main beam was set to high. Having, what I call very bright and powerfull headlights, it is all wasted energy if the beam is set to high. I had to use the low beam to see more of the road. Anyone had the same experience?

Now I will find a level road, a dark night and adjust the high beam. I gues the low beam will now also be throwing a bit nearer/shorter. ;D
 

pqsqac

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I read up on how to adjust properly. Use a bright wall or garage door to bounce the beam off of. Move the bike out to 25 feet, sit on the bike so it is level and have someone use a tape measure and measure from the middle of the bulb down to the ground. I was 38 1/2 inches. Now mark that same measurement on your garage door use a pencil so you can erase the mark after you're done. Now measure down 2 " or 36 1/2. Hold the bike level and adjust the low beam until it is in the middle of those two marks. Keep mind if you have to stand up to adjust which you will the beam is going to change for obvious reasons. This is a two man job for sure. My darling wife helps me.
 

tomatocity

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I can barely see the verticle adjuster (I think). What tool is used to raise / lower the healight beam?
 

colorider

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tomatocity said:
I can barely see the verticle adjuster (I think). What tool is used to raise / lower the healight beam?
I have not done mine yet, but told a common phillips screwdriver does the trick to adjust the "wheel". ::003::
 

tomatocity

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ColoRider said:
I have not done mine yet, but told a common phillips screwdriver does the trick to adjust the "wheel". ::003::
Thanks Rod. I am going to raise the headlights until I get complaints.

There is a lot of new construction (Obama Dollars) this year and I have learned that new very dark asphalt absorbs light Big Time and is difficult to see. The older Grey aspahalt is much easier to see since it reflects light better. Yes I don't see well at night but I am working on night riding.
 

maddog5150

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tomatocity said:
Thanks Rod. I am going to raise the headlights until I get complaints.

There is a lot of new construction (Obama Dollars) this year and I have learned that new very dark asphalt absorbs light Big Time and is difficult to see. The older Grey aspahalt is much easier to see since it reflects light better. Yes I don't see well at night but I am working on night riding.
I raised mine twice, no complaints. Then the wife rode with me....... It seems I went a little too high for two up riding. I am kinda disappointed that there is not an easier "tool-less" method of changing the headlights. You would think that a bike intended to be loaded up for ADV riding would allow on the fly adjustments.....
 

tomatocity

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maddog5150 said:
I raised mine twice, no complaints. Then the wife rode with me....... It seems I went a little too high for two up riding. I am kinda disappointed that there is not an easier "tool-less" method of changing the headlights. You would think that a bike intended to be loaded up for ADV riding would allow on the fly adjustments.....
How many turns (1/4... 1/2... 1...) for each adjustment?

I am with you about the difference with a load. I don't have a need to 2up but was wondering more about load and the difference. Guessing the rear shock preload adjustment should correct some of the difference. Maybe they are adjusted low because of the possible load. An easy access adjusting screw would be good.
 

Don in Lodi

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pqsqac said:
I read up on how to adjust properly. Use a bright wall or garage door to bounce the beam off of. Move the bike out to 25 feet, sit on the bike so it is level and have someone use a tape measure and measure from the middle of the bulb down to the ground. I was 38 1/2 inches. Now mark that same measurement on your garage door use a pencil so you can erase the mark after you're done. Now measure down 2 " or 36 1/2. Hold the bike level and adjust the low beam until it is in the middle of those two marks. Keep mind if you have to stand up to adjust which you will the beam is going to change for obvious reasons. This is a two man job for sure. My darling wife helps me.
Hey Vince, is the light reference on the wall the knife edge cut-off of the light pattern, or some point in the middle of the brightest patch? That knife edge cut-off should be below on coming drivers line of sight, so two inches lower at 25 feet sounds perfect. I do like reading that the pattern can be widened. Dark switchbacks are a pain when the light doesn't follow the bars.
 

maddog5150

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tomatocity said:
How many turns (1/4... 1/2... 1...) for each adjustment?

I am with you about the difference with a load. I don't have a need to 2up but was wondering more about load and the difference. Guessing the rear shock preload adjustment should correct some of the difference. Maybe they are adjusted low because of the possible load. An easy access adjusting screw would be good.
I am not sure about how many turns out I did. I simply turned the lights on (maybe 6' away from the garage door), marked where each light was hitting, drew lines 1" higher (one for left, one for right) and then adjusted screws till they lined up with the new marks.

Very good point about the pre-load. I did not remember to up the pre load before riding 2 up. I will do that next time and see if any on coming cagers still object to the lights.
 
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