Ya, so I get the question. You want to use a Dino oil to aid during the break-in period which is in itself a controversial topicBarkSlayer said:Don't mean to start a fight here, but is there a generally agreed upon minimum mileage at which point synthetic motor oil can be used in the ST? That is, at what point is it safe to switch to synthetic?
Koinz said:Ya, so I get the question. You want to use a Dino oil to aid during the break-in period which is in itself a controversial topic
After that use whatever Jaso MA compliant oil you want. Synthetic or Dino.
Checkswrecks said:Your owners manual simply calls for JASO Grade MA &/or API Grade SG, regardless of being dino, mineral (Yamalube), or synthetic. Change it whenever you want.
You ABSOLUTELY want to look at the round emblem on the back of the bottle, make sure it has at least one of those and does NOT have friction modifiers to conserve energy or resources. You want the bottom half of the donut empty, so the following is what you do NOT want:
To prevent yet another oil thread, I'll just point out that synthetic MA/SG oils are commonly available, including from Valvoline and Mobil at your local car parts place, Rotella from Walmart, Amsoil online, etc.
hANNAbONE said:quite frankly, If I had 28 miles on my new iron I'd go and run the hair off of it until 100 miles, then drain the oil and rear drive and refill with Castrol 10/40 synth (*or T6 15/40 Rotella full synth*) and smile until 5000 miles.
Make sure to put some load on the new mill and once up in the rev's let the engine braking continue the oiling process as the motor slows.
Hard (*not necessarily red-liine*) romps in the 75-85% of total throttle and letting off to romp it thru the gears will produce the desired break-in.
Do this for the 1st 100 miles and you'll be a happy man.
It'll seal the rings and you won't burn 1 ounce of oil for the life of the mill.
I killed an '03 BMW KRS1200 by doing break-in by the book.....never ever again.
(*BTW my Supa10 with the AVC flash is a romping stomping fire-breather with +21000 miles.*)
Good luck with your choice
All above is completely true; however, the underlying implication is not accurate. The idea that "It all comes from the same sources or base ingredients, so it doesn't really matter which one you choose..." wouldn't fly as a concept in any other area... I'm not sure why it is deemed appropriate for oil.Kelvininin said:Make sure that the oil meets the manufactures specifications and use whatever you would like. All globally available lubrication oil base stocks, and additive packages are manufactured by about 6 "big oil" companies, and specialty additive manufacturers. The base stocks and additives are then bought, often by third party blenders (IE Amsoil), then blended to the blenders specifications and then marketed and sold to the consumer/sucker.
Have fun! ::021::