Synthetic Oil Recommendation

BarkSlayer

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Don't mean to start a fight here, but is there a generally agreed upon minimum mileage at which point synthetic motor oil can be used in the ST? That is, at what point is it safe to switch to synthetic?
 

Checkswrecks

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Your owners manual simply calls for JASO Grade MA &/or API Grade SG, regardless of being dino, mineral (Yamalube), or synthetic. Change it whenever you want.


You ABSOLUTELY want to look at the round emblem on the back of the bottle, make sure it has at least one of those and does NOT have friction modifiers to conserve energy or resources. You want the bottom half of the donut empty, so the following is what you do NOT want:




To prevent yet another oil thread, I'll just point out that synthetic MA/SG oils are commonly available, including from Valvoline and Mobil at your local car parts place, Rotella from Walmart, Amsoil online, etc.
 

Koinz

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BarkSlayer said:
Don't mean to start a fight here, but is there a generally agreed upon minimum mileage at which point synthetic motor oil can be used in the ST? That is, at what point is it safe to switch to synthetic?
Ya, so I get the question. You want to use a Dino oil to aid during the break-in period which is in itself a controversial topic
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=2850.0

After that use whatever Jaso MA compliant oil you want. Synthetic or Dino.
 

Checkswrecks

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Koinz said:
Ya, so I get the question. You want to use a Dino oil to aid during the break-in period which is in itself a controversial topic
http://www.yamahasupertenere.com/index.php?topic=2850.0

After that use whatever Jaso MA compliant oil you want. Synthetic or Dino.

Barkslayer asked a direct question, the answer was already provided by Yamaha, and they have a good history of honoring their warranty.
 

528Hz

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If you want to know what oil works for your riding style and your bike best, use various oils and send them to the lab. at 25 bucks per test you will know for sure what is the "best" oil for you. ::021::
 

Kelvininin

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Make sure that the oil meets the manufactures specifications and use whatever you would like. All globally available lubrication oil base stocks, and additive packages are manufactured by about 6 "big oil" companies, and specialty additive manufacturers. The base stocks and additives are then bought, often by third party blenders (IE Amsoil), then blended to the blenders specifications and then marketed and sold to the consumer/sucker.

Have fun! ::021::
 

Combo

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This should just about cover it. :)

https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1616&bih=911&q=oil+companies+logos&oq=oil+companies&gs_l=img.1.1.0l10.4309.11287.0.14646.15.11.1.3.3.0.222.835.10j0j1.11.0....0...1ac.1.48.img..0.15.900.Zb9-XD6lYB8#hl=en&q=gas%20companies%20logos&revid=245147921&tbm=isch&imgdii=_

Checkswrecks has it right! ::008::

Checkswrecks said:
Your owners manual simply calls for JASO Grade MA &/or API Grade SG, regardless of being dino, mineral (Yamalube), or synthetic. Change it whenever you want.


You ABSOLUTELY want to look at the round emblem on the back of the bottle, make sure it has at least one of those and does NOT have friction modifiers to conserve energy or resources. You want the bottom half of the donut empty, so the following is what you do NOT want:




To prevent yet another oil thread, I'll just point out that synthetic MA/SG oils are commonly available, including from Valvoline and Mobil at your local car parts place, Rotella from Walmart, Amsoil online, etc.
 

BarkSlayer

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Thanks, guys. The bike currently has 28 miles on it. I plan to run Amsoil motorcycle specific 10W-40 in it when the engine is sufficiently broken in.
 

hANNAbONE

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quite frankly, If I had 28 miles on my new iron I'd go and run the hair off of it until 100 miles, then drain the oil and rear drive and refill with Castrol 10/40 synth (*or T6 15/40 Rotella full synth*) and smile until 5000 miles.

Make sure to put some load on the new mill and once up in the rev's let the engine braking continue the oiling process as the motor slows.

Hard (*not necessarily red-liine*) romps in the 75-85% of total throttle and letting off to romp it thru the gears will produce the desired break-in.

Do this for the 1st 100 miles and you'll be a happy man.

It'll seal the rings and you won't burn 1 ounce of oil for the life of the mill.

I killed an '03 BMW KRS1200 by doing break-in by the book.....never ever again.

(*BTW my Supa10 with the AVC flash is a romping stomping fire-breather with +21000 miles.*)

Good luck with your choice
 

Ramseybella

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hANNAbONE said:
quite frankly, If I had 28 miles on my new iron I'd go and run the hair off of it until 100 miles, then drain the oil and rear drive and refill with Castrol 10/40 synth (*or T6 15/40 Rotella full synth*) and smile until 5000 miles.

Make sure to put some load on the new mill and once up in the rev's let the engine braking continue the oiling process as the motor slows.

Hard (*not necessarily red-liine*) romps in the 75-85% of total throttle and letting off to romp it thru the gears will produce the desired break-in.

Do this for the 1st 100 miles and you'll be a happy man.

It'll seal the rings and you won't burn 1 ounce of oil for the life of the mill.

I killed an '03 BMW KRS1200 by doing break-in by the book.....never ever again.

(*BTW my Supa10 with the AVC flash is a romping stomping fire-breather with +21000 miles.*)

Good luck with your choice


(correction) T6 Rotella is 5-40 use it all the time.
 

TierHawg

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Kelvininin said:
Make sure that the oil meets the manufactures specifications and use whatever you would like. All globally available lubrication oil base stocks, and additive packages are manufactured by about 6 "big oil" companies, and specialty additive manufacturers. The base stocks and additives are then bought, often by third party blenders (IE Amsoil), then blended to the blenders specifications and then marketed and sold to the consumer/sucker.

Have fun! ::021::
All above is completely true; however, the underlying implication is not accurate. The idea that "It all comes from the same sources or base ingredients, so it doesn't really matter which one you choose..." wouldn't fly as a concept in any other area... I'm not sure why it is deemed appropriate for oil.

Synthetic oil is blended from commonly available additives and base stocks; however, these ingredients vary dramatically in quality, performance and price. In addition, the formulas are unique to each company.

I'll give a couple examples of other areas where we wouldn't apply the same logic:

Pie:

Sugar, fruit, flour and other common ingredients in making a pie are all mostly made by a handful of large corporations. However, as we all know, you can tell the difference when the "brand name" high quality / purity ingredients are used versus the generics. In addition, we've all had pie that didn't quite meet our standards, as well as a few memorable pieces that we're sure to go back for. That is because some bakers have developed a better recipe and mixing / baking techniques.

The same is true with synthetic oil, best results achieved from high quality / purity ingredients, and advanced recipes developed over many years of R&D.

Riding Gear:

Most synthetic fabrics are mass produced from a handful of large corporations. However, as we all know, you can tell the difference when the "brand name" high quality / better engineered fabrics are used versus the generics. In addition, we've all had gear that didn't quite meet our standards, as well as a few tried and true items that we're sure to buy again. That is because some manufactures have developed better design and stitching / assembly techniques that result in a better performing jacket / gloves / pants ... whatever...

The same is true with synthetic oil, best results achieved from high quality / purity ingredients, and advanced blends developed over many years of R&D.

I have to admit I'm puzzled as to why everybody instantly recognizes the principal that quality ingredients + well engineered specifications + excellent assembly is far better in making food, building machines, building a house or virtually anything else, but when it comes to making oil - it doesn't really matter - they all have the same stuff in them so they must be all the same...

I'm not trying to offend anybody, just have a hard time understanding the logic that is so pencil point applied to one subject matter.

Obviously, I'm an AMSOIL guy - that goes without saying that I recommend using AMSOIL. But more important than getting hung up on the brand is to recognize that all motorcycle oils are not the same anymore than all of anything else are the same.

On a side note: I picked up my 2014 ES last night! Got 400 miles in today and will probably get another 100 or 200 in tomorrow morning and then do the 1st oil change with AMSOIL 10W-40 and an AMSOIL premium Filter.

I love the bike, I'll post another thread about my thoughts versus my 2012 - but if I had made a list of the few things I would change about the 2012 - they fixed them all with this one!

Whatever you're riding - have fun!
 
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